'Low Ohms' labelling on multi function meters in the last few years can mean anything..
if not sure I'll test with another meter with a steady-ish 10 meg and 3k (Low-Z) input
and note what auto and manual range puts out what, and throw in a short or two.
@ Noobs and overconfident knowalls: Watch out for 'Low Ohms' on insulation testers
you don't want to be playing around sensitive electronicals with an insulation tester's 'Low Ohm' setting,
most units do about 6 volts OCV at a Short Circuit Current of 200ma, 0 to 40 ohms on the meter display etc = IIRC as it's been a while
Some models have a Continuity mode with low current, BUT kick in automatically with 200ma if they sense a short or anything lower than 200 to 40 ohms etc
There is no warning btw, that's just how they work, handy for unpowered electrical wiring tests and the like,
not so good for sensitive electronics/components.
Fluke 289 has it's own Low Ohm/50 Ohm thingie too, not to be confused with Low-Z parked on the other side,
or centrally located Continuity/Buzzer/Ohms/Diode/Nanoseafood(?!) modes
Quote Fluke re LOW
setting:
"Two terminal 50 ohm range with 1 milliohm resolution, 10 mA source current.
Useful for measuring and comparing differences in motor winding resistance or contact resistance." AFAICT many 'not so Low
's' are a test mode that sits between a 'standard' low voltage continuity test most are familiar with already, and a high voltage insulation test,
but the deceptive titled 'Low Ohms/Low
' puts out 200ma DC current at low voltage
i.e. If you own a 289, or a bells and whistles AIO multimeter with insulation test modes included, from any manufacturer, watch out for that!
As per DJ's comment above, it pays to keep a whimpy meter or two hanging around that won't hammer in-circuit components,
or send too big a DC BANG! through a powered up (oops..) audio system
Besides, isn't it fashion now to buy an ESR meter for checking dud caps in circuit,
and score a poorer techs Low Ohms feature as a side bonus?
Correction/s to this comment are welcome if I've stuffed up
EDIT:
Member Wytnucls quote/posted at >
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-with-low-continuity-test-voltage/msg477081/#msg477081"If you want a Fluke, the cheap 101 has an open voltage of 0.53V and a test current of 178uA. The buzzer stops above 80 Ohms." Nice to know, I only use the 101 for the buzzer, AC/DC
and suss situations where an expensive meter has no business going to first..