The EU version is also sold by committed chinesevendors on Alibaba and Aliexpress but that's none of my business
I didn't know Uni-T made desktop meters. They're cute
assuming it's not possible for Chinese dealers to get it through the usual channels.
1000pcs UT61E Normal version - 35.0US$ Fob China port
1000pcs UT61E German version (TÜV/GS) - 57.0US$ Fob China port
Slap the 3 low capacitance MOV units in, and be done with it. The limiting factor will be the PTC in any case, 1kV and it will fry itself apart in a second or so. Choose the voltage to suit your normal use, and as they mostly come from RS in packs of 10 you will have some spares. If you do blow them up the meter will not survive in any case.
In my case I just used 2 275V MOV units ( 7mm) in series, as I did have the remains of a 10 pack around, so using the 6 was easier than either placing an order and wait till I had the minimum order price in other parts, or paying the $20 courier charge RS puts on here for small orders. Still have 1 left, after replacing 3 MOV units on other equipment.
I picked up a brand new UT61E. It appears identical to the one 5KY had sent. Metal can and all.
So, what I would like to do if modify this meter with the MOVs people are recommending, or use the parts that are available in the one being supplied to Germany. I will then retest it to failure and see if there are any improvements.
Keep in mind the 61E and D never made it to the mini surge test. They both failed ESD with that little grill starter.
Urggh
My UT61E is again out of calibration, see here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/how-good-is-the-ut61-series/msg1214739/#msg1214739
Was measuring 12V it read around 10.2V. Its done this before. I don't have the PCB ver and spare pads to install an LT1970 Vref...although I could do it. But that's not the issue...it keeps going out of cal by quite a bit. Any suggestions? Maybe I should first change the POT I mean there is not much to go wrong here looking at the schematic.
An unreliable multimeter is useless..so I have to fix it. Using one of my many backuo meters atm
Brendan
Blue trimmer VR1 - is bullshit. I have the same problem. Replace and calibrate it - and calibration will never goes out.
Didn't come with any Cal info.
Didn't come with any Cal info.Without actual calibration info against a known reference meter, that AD584 box is fairly useless. It should have come with actual reference values printed on a sticker attached to the bottom of that AD584 rig. Mine looks like this:
Of course there is some controversy as to whether these sticker values are actual measured values or just some random numbers that someone made up or copied from another sticker.
Speaking of blow ups, I had a major brain fart yesterday... I had my UT61E in "A" position, test leads connected to COM and 10A sockets. One test lead was connected to negative terminal of a fully charged 12V car battery, and then I attempted to touch the positive battery terminal with the other test lead. I only touched the positive terminal for a split second since I saw a spark at the positive terminal and heard the DMM beep.
The DMM still measures voltage, but not current on the 10A socket. Hopefully I only blew the fuse and nothing else. Is BS1362 the correct replacement fuse? I have the Chinese version, not the German version.
Thanks!
Jeez Sonny your postbox is still full....I cannot PM back to you till ya empty !