Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Zucca]

optimise the panel angle over the year....

It's a week I am sitting a pondering an hydraulic system to adjust the panel tilt during the day....
It will never happen on the roof.... for me.... But if I build something in the garden, wife would like some shade and tables outside... oh oh ..

[AVGresponding]

So sitting here cleaning test gear again.

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

If those are pencil marks, solvents won't work; graphite isn't soluble in either water or organic solvents. Pencil eraser is your best bet, they work by getting the graphite to stick better to the rubber/synthetic rubber than to the writing surface.

[Zoli]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 resistors & not 330 , but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!)

So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77?
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

[AVGresponding]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 resistors & not 330 , but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!)

So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77?
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

[bd139]

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

Pencil erase rubber?

First winner on that one. Much better now. Thank you

[tautech]

So sitting here cleaning test gear again.

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

Cold chisel?  <ducking>

-Pat

Dremel 

[mnementh]

So sitting here cleaning test gear again.

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

Cold chisel?  <ducking>

-Pat

Duckling butt?

mnem
*dodges barrage of cold chisels like Matrix Bullet-time*

[Zoli]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

I've just checked my bench meters and was pleasantly surprised to discover that my oldest meter, HP 3466A also gave me the highest voltage in diode mode of 4.6V and handhelds only giving me 3.2V, one more reason for keeping the HP then 

Yeah I measured the 3465A. It doesn’t have a diode mode. You stick it in 1K ohms and it works. 4.6V too. Same circuit probably.

The O/C voltage can be misleading; none of the mentioned meters will measure as far as that I'll bet. Vince likes his Metrix MX-series, and they have an O/CV of ~4, but won't give a reading on a white LED, despite making it light. The forward voltage of this diode is 2.7V according to my Fluke 289, which has an O/CV of 5.4 but will for sure not measure above 3V or so, and the same applies to the Fluke 89 V which has an O/CV of 7.3, and will light two 2.7V white LEDs in series, but will not give a reading.

The important part is to see if the LED is lit up in the first place; voltages should be checked under working conditions, NOT on multi-meters.

[Zoli]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 resistors & not 330 , but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!)

So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77?
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

The maximum reading is what the manufacturer is programmed in the unit; for details, Read The Fine Manual(I'm pretty sure that you have it) 

[Zucca]

First winner on that one. Much better now. Thank you

I have a couple of TEA boxes that would need your services.... new business opportunity for you?

[Neomys Sapiens]

Ewww, that coupling switch knob is really grimy!

[AVGresponding]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 resistors & not 330 , but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!)

So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77?
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

The maximum reading is what the manufacturer is programmed in the unit; for details, Read The Fine Manual(I'm pretty sure that you have it) 

Because manuals are always 100% correct, right?

The manual for the Fluke 87 V states a maximum reading of 3.000V on diode test range, but experimentation suggests the maximum reading is 3.099V, with OL happening at 3.1V (I managed to get 3.082V by making various combinations of diodes in series).

[Zoli]

...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training) 

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 resistors & not 330 , but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!)

So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77?
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

The maximum reading is what the manufacturer is programmed in the unit; for details, Read The Fine Manual(I'm pretty sure that you have it) 

Because manuals are always 100% correct, right?

The manual for the Fluke 87 V states a maximum reading of 3.000V on diode test range, but experimentation suggests the maximum reading is 3.099V, with OL happening at 3.1V (I managed to get 3.082V by making various combinations of diodes in series).

Your case is simple: everything above 3.000V is out of spec, and should be discarded.
If you think that the manual is wrong, you can always ask the manufacturer.

[AVGresponding]

The important part is to see if the LED is lit up in the first place; voltages should be checked under working conditions, NOT on multi-meters.

Granted, but a failing LED can still light (the colour may be affected) but is likely to give a significantly different FV.

[med6753]

Ewww, that coupling switch knob is really grimy!

Once those coupling switch knobs get to that state they don't come clean. The type of plastic over the years must have changed. Those little knobs on older 500 series don't turn that moldy mess. The ones on 400 series do and it's the same P/N knob. I tired a conditioner such as "Amor-All" on them and it makes no difference.     

[BU508A]

spent a good week tracing down an issue with systemd and RHEL.
How I HATE this blockhead who did the systemd crap. Can we boil him a bit ? or crucify ? or express our gratitude in some other preferable painfull definitely lethal way ?

Anyway. Node.js is now accepting my ca.

One for BD:

Every girl is bi. You just have to figure out if it's polar or sexual.

Miss Ogyn

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lennart_Poettering

      

Lennart Poettering has left RedHat and is working now for Microsoft.

Source:
https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=Systemd-Creator-Microsoft

[AVGresponding]

Your case is simple: everything above 3.000V is out of spec, and should be discarded.
If you think that the manual is wrong, you can always ask the manufacturer.

I don't think so; the manual describes 3.000V as "full scale".

Additionally there are several accuracies designated "unspecified".

I think it's a simple mistake in the manual. The compensation for the lead sense current doesn't work in Hi Res mode, which I consider to be a more serious mistake. These things happen.


EDIT: As discussed in this thread:  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-87-v-highres-values-are-different/msg3777176/#msg3777176

[mnementh]

Lennart Poettering has left RedHat and is working now for Microsoft.

Source:
https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=Systemd-Creator-Microsoft

Awww, man... even they don't deserve THAT punishment.

mnem
Well, maybe if you could manacle him permanently to Steve Ballmer...

[med6753]

Lennart Poettering has left RedHat and is working now for Microsoft.

Source:
https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=Systemd-Creator-Microsoft

Awww, man... even they don't deserve THAT punishment.

mnem
Well, maybe if you could manacle him permanently to Steve Ballmer...

I wonder if his leaving has anything to do with IBM acquiring Red Hat a few years ago. 

[bd139]

spent a good week tracing down an issue with systemd and RHEL.
How I HATE this blockhead who did the systemd crap. Can we boil him a bit ? or crucify ? or express our gratitude in some other preferable painfull definitely lethal way ?

Anyway. Node.js is now accepting my ca.

One for BD:

Every girl is bi. You just have to figure out if it's polar or sexual.

Miss Ogyn

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lennart_Poettering

      

Lennart Poettering has left RedHat and is working now for Microsoft.

Source:
https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=Systemd-Creator-Microsoft

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

[AVGresponding]

My latest packages from ebay seller esch4karate arrived today. A spare handset for my Duratool desoldering station, 50 tips for said (24x 0.8mm, 18x 1.0mm, and 8x 1.3mm) and the remainder of the Sfernice pots, which she forgot to include in the first package (she notified me of this before the first package even arrived).

All in all, fast delivery and well packed, and excellent customer service, I have no hesitation in recommending them as a seller.



Also if any of you reprobates needs a spare nozzle or two for your Duratool/other brand of this desoldering station, feel free to drop me a pm. Oh, and does anyone remember the thread about modding the PSU in these? It would save me a bit of time in searching!

[Specmaster]

So sitting here cleaning test gear again.

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

Yes, try using a dry marker pen, thats what I have used in the past.

[med6753]

So sitting here cleaning test gear again.

Anyone got any ideas what might remove this horrible idiot graffiti on the panel? Isopropyl doesn’t touch it.

Yes, try using a dry marker pen, thats what I have used in the past.

Always read ahead before responding. You are a day late and a dollar short. 

[Zoli]

Your case is simple: everything above 3.000V is out of spec, and should be discarded.
If you think that the manual is wrong, you can always ask the manufacturer.

I don't think so; the manual describes 3.000V as "full scale".
...

Please explain in details, why over-range data should be considered valid; thanks in advance.

[mnementh]

Cleaning recently acquired test gear while stuck on conference calls used to be one of my vices. I now just avoid conference calls...

No one ever calls me. Ask me if I care? 

Oh, I'm pretty sure people call you lots of things. 

mnem
also pretty sure you still don't care.