Some time ago, I've purchased a Fluke 8060A(parts only, $42.00 - little expensive). Install new alkaline, turn on - no display. Open up, start checking - why the brand new battery has only 8.2V?
Well, the Gorilla was here, and left two shorts(Gorilla1-2.jpg; red arrow:short on the bottom, continued on the top thru a capacitor pin hole). Removing the shorts, the LCD came back to life; time to start the capacitor replacement.
Oops, more Gorilla footprints: broken LCD bracket(LCD_Support.jpg) and button support(Assembly_Support.jpg), Well, I need to dig out/install the Tools_of_Trade: Dremel, vertical tool stand, 0.5mm Carbide drill.
Glued the parts together with CA(Loctite.jpg) as placeholder, then proceed with the drilling. After drilling, add a drop of CA on the top of the hole, move the wires(0.45mm, leftover from the 10µF replacements) in-out a few times to fill the hole with CA, add a drop of accelerator on the top, then let cure for 24 h.
Replace the caps(surprisingly, no leaks) and the MAC socket, let the PCB and MAC soak in isopropanol for 24 h, short iso rinse, then dry for 24h more. Assembly, test - almost spot on. But since it has a good family to join, I've adjusted a bit...
Anyway, when I will have the time, I will make some tools to properly adjust/calibrate the whole family...
I just noticed that on one of your pictures the LCD mask is under the lower tabs / clips in the mount. This is incorrect and puts stress on the LCD. The mask should butt up to the tabs, not under them. Hopefully this was a before picture.
Unfortunately, this is the current situation. This was the only way to have all the segments working. If I move the mask out from the tabs, I'm losing some segments; assembly was done in nitrile gloves, so hand grease didn't contaminated the unit.
Remember: the LCD support was broken just under the tab, I had to fix it; most likely the Gorilla glued together quickly and with some offset. When I tried to clean the footsteps, the hidden damage already was done.
Thanks for the heads-up, I will keep my eye on the possible problems; if anything occurs, I will report back here with the solution.
Update:
I've opened up and checked the LCD assembly again. The situation is: not only the mask, but the polarizer is under the tabs, too. Reason: the left tab is loose, since the repair wasn't 100%.
Solution: 1. Leave it as is, since it's working.
2. Change the whole LCD support.