Futch...
mnem
mnem
*toddles off to ded*
So, for lack of better things
that I want to do... I'm going to chronicle this little adventure in TEA...
First on the agenda is cleaning up this filthy beast. You've seen this before pic; well, inside isn't much better.
Careful application of a natural-bristle paintbrush is the first line of assault; this breaks loose almost all of the cruds such that followup with compressed air is actually effective. I'll use it on the vanes and body of the fan, surfaces with a layer of crud, and on PCBs and between components. In some cases, like this unit, captive crud under PCBs required removal of mainboard and PSU. Fortunately with this unit that was pretty easy; the naughty bits are almost all on the mainboard, and just a couple ribbon cables to PSU and monitor. This before & after reflects a fair bit more time than is apparent.
One of the big differences between this scope and my 54645A (on the left) is the frontend. The BNC jacks are actually a integral part of those two chromed pot-metal castings. They are held in place by hooks at the back into the PCB; once you remove the nut on the CAL output and screws in the accessory module port & PCB (and the two in those chromed castings), you then lift the back of the mainboard and slide everything back until the BNCs clear the front of the metal chassis.
Then you can lift the BNC castings up and they unhook from the PCB in the back. Contact from the core of the BNC to the mainboard is made against a V-shaped bit of gold-plated spring brass. I had taken pics of these details, but evidently the eevBlog wandering singularity followed me home; I have several damaged files on my camera card now and presume those are among them.
Here you can see me cleaning the inside of the BNC jacks with a flattened Q-tip dipped in alcohol to get between the center and shell of the BNC.
Next came repairing the control panel & encoder PCB; like my 54645A after the Bumblebutt incident, this corner of the PCB was cracked resulting in damaged traces and non-working buttons. Carefully scraping the solder mask away, I then tin the surface of the traces before soldering down copper wire as reinforcement.
Due to the close proximity to active contacts on the keypad, I used individual strands from old cat5 cable approx 0.2mm dia. This is all that's needed to effect a reliable long-lasting repair. Wider traces may get more than one strand in parallel if feasible.
After all the soldering is done, I then clean the PCB with toothbrush and IPA, then apply hot air to ensure it is completely dry. Then I reinforce the crack in the PCB with a thin line of CA, followed immediately with a dab of CA accelerant. If done correctly, the accelerant makes the CA run thinner than water before it cures... you will see the CA weep through on the other side of the crack.
I then let it all sit for about 10 minutes to dry and cure; then I clean both sides of the PCB again with Q-tips & IPA, before applying a layer of clear nail-polish as sealer.
Next came fixing the loose outer film on the bezel; once I'd scrubbed everything with IPA to make it presentable, I masked off everything around the CRT bezel and outer edges. Then, I carefully lifted the clear outer film and sprayed 3M Clear Hobby Adhesive on both the back of the film and the front of the panel.
After that, I laid a gallon Ziploc bag down over all of it and used my fingers to press the film down into place starting from the part that was still attached and working outward towards the end of the panel. This tactic ensured that the traces of print on the back of the film aligned perfectly with the print still on the front panel. Then I left it to cure overnight; next day I removed masking and clean up with IPA on a rag.
During all this work I was printing up replacement knobs for the missing ones. The smaller knob was found on ThingiVerse, and fortunately the creator included his .F3D file, so it was a relatively simple matter to rescale in the X & Z axes (X & Y on your printer) to make a 17mm dia version of the smaller knob. I'll post both to the 3DP knobs thread later.
And the money shot; which of course all y'alls have already seen. Not perfect, but definitely a lot better than the "as-delivered" pic.
mnem