I was unhappy with the results I was getting testing the resistance across the banana plugs on that last design, they were very inconsistent, between about 80 microohms and 4 milliohms. I seriously doubt the credibility of the 80 microohms reading, I think I'm getting noise from the TE effect between the plug and wire, and some inconsistent contact also.
So I changed tack, and decided to make a short using only copper:
This is far superior. It measures consistently 2.35 to 2.40 milliohms "plug" to "plug". I tweaked the "plugs" for a gentle fit into a 4mm socket, it works well.
EDIT: The inductance between plugs measures <20nH, which is basically in the noise as far as this LCR meter is concerned.
Sorry if this is being stupid... why not simply take an oxy-acetylene torch and melt / fuse the 4 copper wires together ? That would make for a reliable and low impedance connection wouldn't it, and no TE effect. Just.. a blob of copper.
Sure, I could try that. Do you have a spare oxy-acetylene torch I can borrow?
It wouldn't work though. Heating the copper like that would make it oxidize badly. You could try using a flux to stop that happening of course, but that would introduce more chemicals to the mix, no problem if you're welding, but likely very problematic in this use case. Not to mention what the heat cycling is likely to do to the electrical properties of the piece.
I don't have a torch because I don't have a garage, but as soon as the garage is built my old man will give all his tools, so the oxy-acetylene gear will be part of it
Oxidization hmmm... would that not be limited to the surface of the blob ? Was hoping the core of the blob would still be pure copper. OK well, too bad uh... so TIG welding with a shielding gas it is then !
OK, if you don't have a torch, you probably don't have a MIG never mind a TIG.... back to square one... I am trying my best !
So get a MIG with a a tank of gas so that next time you are better prepared !
You live in an apartment, no garage/workshop ? OK I give up !
Looking at you picture, I am not sure the crimp is doing much at all does it ? The wires are twisted over such a long distance that I guess the total contact area between them is what makes for the good connection rather than the crimp at the very end ? I bet if you just remove/cut crimp, the shunt would still measure just as good !