Tek RM17 repair update
So now I am left with the last major problem : the 3 " AC ONLY " ranges, 50mV to 10mV / DIV... but I have a clue now as to what it might be !
I looked at the schematic in search of what these AC ONLY ranges might have in common... at first I failed, because I was following a red herring again : thinking well, they have " AC ONLY "in common, so must be the AC coupling cap ?! But no, AC coupling works fine when I try it on all the other ranges.
Then the plain obvious, "right there you idiot ", eventually struck me : it's nothing to do with being " AC ONLY " ! That was misleading.
What these AC ONLY ranges have in common is that... they are the 3 most sensitives ranges, and so are the only ones that route the input signal through the PRE-amp !
So... my problems must lie in the pre-amp, so I shall be probing in there shortly !
OK so now the amp is fixed, now the attenuator is fixed... let's now fix that preamp. So been working on that this evening.
Has 3 problems I can see :
1) Amplitude is way too low, like 3 to 5 times.
2) Trace moves up and down randomly, it's a sick boat.
3) When it moves, it's often accompanied with huge amounts of noise / scratchiness, like a dirty switch or something...
2 and 3 could be a pain to diagnose, so I decided to first work on problem #1, the low amplitude, as it seemed it would be easier to diagnose / work on...
TL;DR : still not fixed and no, it's not easy
So, schematic of the pre-amp below. Fasten your seat belt.
First I checked the output of the pre-amp tube, V154. I should be getting 54V, I get half that, 28V. Replaced the tube, no joy. This bugger, a type 6CB6, is unique to the type 317 ! And each 317 has only one of these. So I am glad I have 7 type 317 in stock...
So, I tried another tube still....still no joy. Replaced a third time... still no joy. Always get 28V...
So OK, tube is not at fault, let's see what's around it. Check power supply, plate voltage. Should run off of 175V, I get 120V !
Yes... Murphy... the one time I don't measure power rails first.. is the one time that they are bad.
So... this power rail, as often for a delicate pre-amp, is a local supply that powers solely the pre-amp. This is done with a triode, V163A, half of a 6DJ8. It runs from the 300V rail, and via a voltage divider (also powered from the 300V supply), R167 & R168, 150K and 200K respectively, drives the grid of the triode. So I replace that tube... still get 120V
OK so I check the voltage at the voltage divider.... 120V !
So the triode was outputting 120V because... that's what it was being asked to do !
So the voltage divider is bad then. I checked both resistors, they are good. Eh ?!
Uh...... what gives ?
Only explanation I can come up with is : schematic shows a little 5nF cap, C166, across R168, the bottom leg of the divider. So if that cap was say, leaking a bit, it would indeed lower the voltage of that divider. So let's find this cap... uh..... can someone tell me where it is ? For the life of me I can't find it !
There is a similar cap on the anode of the tube, it's a small brown Z5U disc ceramic cap. There are a few of these in the area but... I just can't find the one connected to that voltage divider !
Maybe it was not implemented on my particular scope but... I doubt it. It serves a purpose here... I think. I am not sure Tek would have deemed it wise to remove it.
Also, when I measured the voltage on the divider, hence across that cap, assuming it's indeed there somewhere.... I noticed that the voltage is NOT stable. The 300V rail is stable, but not the divider output.
I also noticed some capacitive effect maybe : when I put my probe on the divider/cap, I get say 115V, but it immediately starts dropping, slowly, and jerkily, and wonders about. It can go down to 112V every now and then. But... if take my probe off, wait say 3 seconds, then apply it again... I read 115V very briefly then it drops again... Like the impedance of my DMM was stealing some current from that cap and playing havoc with it. Something like that. Just a gut feeling really
So... I do need to take this scope apart until I can find this cap, hoping it is there indeed. My only hope : the output of the divider is on a ceramic strip, from which two wires bugger off. One goes to the tube, but the other I can't see where it goes, it merges into a little harness and I can't follow it, don't know where it goes.
So... my only hope is to persevere and try hard to trace that wire... it's my only hope... I MUST find where it goes !!!!