Tek RM17 repair updateThanks Robert and Papa smurf for your support !
17H30 here.. I have spent the entire afternoon on the thing, but it's fixed now.
Retrospectively, turns out I had already fixed it in the first 15 minutes, but then I spent the next 4 or 5 hours following red herrings needlessly, thinking there was still something wrong with it, when there was not.
More on that below.
Here is the schematic for the amplifier, so you can follow me.
So as I said I saw zero reason why me replacing that resistor in the attenuator, could make the trace disappear. Made zero sense.
So instead I grounded the signal input, and started tracing that in the amplifier. Schematic in one hand, the DMM probe in the other...
That's when I started screaming : all the tube designators on the schematic... could not find them in the scope ! The designators in the scope... NONE OF THEM match the schematic !
WTF Tek ?! How a m I supposed to find stuff !
So had to try to figure things out. Luckily it was not too hard. The layout of the tubes follows a logical "flow", that matches the schematic. Plus, the tube types are marked on the chassis so it helps too.
Turns out what they did wqs modify the "section" indicator : the first digit of the 3 digits designator.. but the last 2 digits, the most important/meaning full ones, were preserved
So I mean, on the schematic, all tubes for the amplifier are labeled V2XX . Well on my scope they changed that to V4XX or V5XX.
Anyway, I was well pissed at Tek for doing that, as I don't see why they could need to do that... AND there is no manual specific to the rack mount version.
So anyway. I probed the grid of V183, I do get my 0V there, and 1.7V at cathode instead of 1.5V. Good enough. However the other tube, V203, should get 1.6V and I get negative 150Volts !!!!
Ah... good, found the problem !
I saw only two possible reasons for getting -150V :
1) Resistor R195 is shorted and tying the cathode straight to the -150V rail. Unlikely but well, I tested that resistor anyway, and it was good (enough, at 44.5K instead of 39K ).
2) There is no current flowing through that resistor, which means the tube is not drawing any current. So probably dead. To be thorough, before incriminating that tub, I first checked it's environment :
- Anode / Plate : I get +100V, check.
- Grid at 0V : was not. Schematic shows that it's set by the DC balance trim pot on the front panel, so I played with that. It allowed for an adjustment range of -1.1V up to +1.1V. I had no problem setting it to spot on 0.000V, happy. Still no joy. So dead tube it is. Replaced it, now the cathode is at 1.5V, check.
Soooo... I now look at the screen, and still no trace, bummer. I look at the output of the amplifier, V244/254 that drive the deflection plates. Should have +168V on both outputs. I don't. One output is 25V lower than that, and the other 25 higher. Hmm.... 50V difference, so a 50V offset at the deflection plates... enough to drive the trace off the screen maybe. So I play with the vertical position control, and yeah, trace was off screen at the bottom, and I can bring it back to the center line, juuust. So I have a big offset problem.
I will spare you the headache that followed, which occupied the next 4 hours. Turns out, all was working fine, and the offset was simply due to the balance trim pot I had adjusted earlier to get 0V at the grid of V203, indicated on the schematic.... I eventually read the manual, calibration procedure. They DO NOT say to adjust the balance trimmer to get 0V at the grid, schematic was wrong (or I didn't understand the thinking behind it ?!
). No, procedure says nothing about grid voltage having to be zero... all they say is to do as the operator would do : set the balance trimmer to cancel the vertical movements of the red variable attenuation knob. That's all. So I tried that, and now the scope works just fine ! 4 hours wasted for wanting to have that gird to Zero as shown on the schematic !
Once I adjusted the balance for proper operation, I measured voltages and that led to having the grid at -0.95V instead of the indicated zero, and the cathode at 0.8V instead of the indicated 1.6V.
However, I have to say that the balance control is pretty much all the way, next to zero head room... which does not feel right, makes me uncomfortable.... I guess that means the tube I replaced is a bit weak ? Might try another one... I guess that's the limit of using old parts form donors, you get what you get...
A basic tube tester would be nice to test emission levels, at least. That's one of the duties of my Tek 575 transistor curve tracer... once it's restored. Will make an adapter to make it test vacuum tubes
Anyway, it's fixed, and it was a tube that died on me at the exact same time that I replaced that resistor in the x2 attenuator ! What were the odds ?!
So... now that the scope is working again... I can see if my work last night on the attenuator fixed my "differentiator" symptoms on all x2 ranges. Result : yes ! That fixed it !!!
So now I am left with the last major problem : the 3 " AC ONLY " ranges, 50mV to 10mV / DIV... but I have a clue now as to what it might be !
I looked at the schematic in search of what these AC ONLY ranges might have in common... at first I failed, because I was following a red herring again : thinking well, they have " AC ONLY "in common, so must be the AC coupling cap ?!
But no, AC coupling works fine when I try it on all the other ranges.
Then the plain obvious, "right there you idiot ", eventually struck me : it's nothing to do with being " AC ONLY " ! That was misleading.
What these AC ONLY ranges have in common is that... they are the 3 most sensitives ranges, and so are the only ones that route the input signal through the PRE-amp !
So... my problems must lie in the pre-amp, so I shall be probing in there shortly !
Now I will go take a well deserved shower and go get some groceries before the shop closes...