Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

Found some small capacitors. In fact, eight of them:   

Those are 65mm diameter and 150mm height, screw terminals. Charged them slowly to 32V for a test, measured 30V after 8h being disconnected.

In the same box: 20 of these Siemens caps:      very small footprint: 35mm diameter and 85mm height.

I smell something "Class A" on the wind... 

mnem
 

[mnementh]

So yesterday's excursion to the local Habitat for Humanity ReStore  (sortof like GoodWill for stuff contractors need to get rid of) yielded some wheelie chairs. Got lucky and hit them on half-price day; bought these and the awesome desk below for $75. Spent the rest of the day building and setting up his gaming rig/workstation, then we set up the printer and I walked him through putting filament on and manual feeding the extruder...




"Good work son; you printed a... pubic hair."

mnem
A good day's work, says I.

[mnementh]

mnem
No, I don't have anything better to do... 

[Zucca]

Metcal fans!
Rejoice with me.... An old PS-200 designer showed up in the forum....
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-6-metcal-smartheat-soldering-stations-chicago-$250-bulletproof!/msg4068715/#msg4068715

[vk6zgo]

Maybe a wee bit of Kapton tape on probe pin and around ground ring?

mnem
 

Even plain old "El Cheapo" insulation tape would work!

[vk6zgo]

Since we are having here some vehicle crazy people, The Tim Traveller is presenting the world's most bonkers bus:

How about this one:-

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/bus-stop-classic/bus-stop-classics-1945-dyson-landliner-bus-an-innovative-experiment-from-down-under/

[bitseeker]

For the capacitors, I would stay at the PSU and the memory battery etc for now. The main 'acquisition board' on the underside is quite the process to remove and not really needed unless you are a little insane like me.

I'd posit that ALL of us participating in this thread are well past the point of using the modifier 'a little' in regard to our levels of insanity...

-Pat

LOL! Indeed. At least we're in good company.

"Every day and in every way, I am getting better, and better." wink, wink, wink -- Former Chief Inspector Dreyfus

[cyclin_al]

mnem
Damn you, BU508A...

   You cannot take bags on the mail bag train... 

[mansaxel]

Just because it is Monday morning, and a new work week is dawning here -- with the best spring weather available -- I'd like to stoke the fire a bit.



This is why one does use things invented the last 15 years, too. Because doing it the old and bad way would have been illegal and dangerous, and on top, tedious and time-consuming at best. This is under our patio. There's (EKK / EQX / NYM-J / Romex / Twin-and earth) fixed cables are fastened on the beam, and on the outside of said beam are small downlights fitted:


(borrowed pic)

The downlights could have had the installation cable into them, but that would have been pretty awkward and not very elegant, and required lots of swearing. Since I'm having a junction box anyway to branch off (there definitely is not room in the light for 2 cables) I opted for a piece of outdoor-grade rubber cable, with a strain-relief fitting,  feeding the light, and then switching to "install" style cable in the box. The white cable is single-core; the rubber one is extra stranded. Joining those in a wire nut would have been tedious and certainly outside the envelope of permitted combinations for our wire nuts. Alternatively, a nylon-insulated barrier strip could have been used. That would, as I did inside the light, (where there is such a small insulated barrier strip for live and neutral, with ground on a screw in the body) have required ferrules and somehow finding a barrier strip that takes three wires.

Fortunately, we have Wago 221 series. Strip to 11mm,  twist slightly if stranded, flip the lever open, insert cable, flick lever down. Done.

TE involvement: none. I watched a lot of CuriousMarc videos and browsed for function generators and RF signal generators a lot, though. 

[AVGresponding]

Just because it is Monday morning, and a new work week is dawning here -- with the best spring weather available -- I'd like to stoke the fire a bit.



This is why one does use things invented the last 15 years, too. Because doing it the old and bad way would have been illegal and dangerous, and on top, tedious and time-consuming at best. This is under our patio. There's (EKK / EQX / NYM-J / Romex / Twin-and earth) fixed cables are fastened on the beam, and on the outside of said beam are small downlights fitted:


(borrowed pic)

The downlights could have had the installation cable into them, but that would have been pretty awkward and not very elegant, and required lots of swearing. Since I'm having a junction box anyway to branch off (there definitely is not room in the light for 2 cables) I opted for a piece of outdoor-grade rubber cable, with a strain-relief fitting,  feeding the light, and then switching to "install" style cable in the box. The white cable is single-core; the rubber one is extra stranded. Joining those in a wire nut would have been tedious and certainly outside the envelope of permitted combinations for our wire nuts. Alternatively, a nylon-insulated barrier strip could have been used. That would, as I did inside the light, (where there is such a small insulated barrier strip for live and neutral, with ground on a screw in the body) have required ferrules and somehow finding a barrier strip that takes three wires.

Fortunately, we have Wago 221 series. Strip to 11mm,  twist slightly if stranded, flip the lever open, insert cable, flick lever down. Done.

TE involvement: none. I watched a lot of CuriousMarc videos and browsed for function generators and RF signal generators a lot, though.

I'm confused. There is strain relief for the final connection, but none for the permanent wiring. Stuffing glands should have been used for those as well. Tower clips are complete shite, use proper pvc-covered metal P-clips. That junction box looks like one of those cheap shite Gewiss ones, better to use a proper Wiska membrane box, which is actually waterproof (IP66+).

[AVGresponding]

Made some progress today with the Thandar SC110 mini portable scope, stripped it down for fault-finding and after a good long coat of looking at under magnification I have so far failed to find a smoking gun, it really all looks pretty good to me. All the solder joints that are visible without further stripping seem to be in good condition, maybe I might find something lurking beneath the vertical and horizontal board once I remove it, who knows.

I find a few caps with small holes in them, but they exhibit zero outward signs of suffering, the holes appear to have been there from new  .

Here a few pics so far, I doubt that I shall be working on it tomorrow as I shall be over at Hangar 11 collection, working on that Ferguson TE20 tractor restoration.

I guess you have tried an external X input, as the "Trig sweep/Ext X" switch seems to be set to the Ext X input, that will disable the sweep. Those push button switches are often found with very dirty contacts, in the older HP scopes I've been bought, often nothing happens until they have all been exercised many times.


Those through-pins, that join that tracks on the top & bottom of the boards were often a nightmare at work, we would get intermittent faults that were usually one of more of those crappy things, the only solution for us was to replace them all to avoid warranty claims, they were often too tarnished to resolder.

David

I haven't yet tried an external signal, mainly because I don't have a sig gen handy on the bench at the moment, but I'm thinking about tracking one out and doing just that, what sort of input would it require, sine, square, or triangle?

Anything you like from DC up to 2MHz, max voltage 2.5V according to the book, it's the external X input for use in X/Y mode, just with some limitations.

With DC you should be able to get full deflection of the dot either way, with positive one way, negative the other, center the dot with the X position first. Hopefully this will confirm if the X output amp is working.

P.S. Oh I was wrong yesterday about the switch position, the labelling is in for normal sweep & out for external X input.

David

Worth pointing out that in the "ECON" setting which is shown in the pic the trace will be completely blanked if there's no input signal.

[med6753]

Just because it is Monday morning, and a new work week is dawning here -- with the best spring weather available -- I'd like to stoke the fire a bit.



This is why one does use things invented the last 15 years, too. Because doing it the old and bad way would have been illegal and dangerous, and on top, tedious and time-consuming at best. This is under our patio. There's (EKK / EQX / NYM-J / Romex / Twin-and earth) fixed cables are fastened on the beam, and on the outside of said beam are small downlights fitted:


(borrowed pic)

The downlights could have had the installation cable into them, but that would have been pretty awkward and not very elegant, and required lots of swearing. Since I'm having a junction box anyway to branch off (there definitely is not room in the light for 2 cables) I opted for a piece of outdoor-grade rubber cable, with a strain-relief fitting,  feeding the light, and then switching to "install" style cable in the box. The white cable is single-core; the rubber one is extra stranded. Joining those in a wire nut would have been tedious and certainly outside the envelope of permitted combinations for our wire nuts. Alternatively, a nylon-insulated barrier strip could have been used. That would, as I did inside the light, (where there is such a small insulated barrier strip for live and neutral, with ground on a screw in the body) have required ferrules and somehow finding a barrier strip that takes three wires.

Fortunately, we have Wago 221 series. Strip to 11mm,  twist slightly if stranded, flip the lever open, insert cable, flick lever down. Done.

TE involvement: none. I watched a lot of CuriousMarc videos and browsed for function generators and RF signal generators a lot, though.

 

[med6753]

Worth pointing out that in the "ECON" setting which is shown in the pic the trace will be completely blanked if there's no input signal.

I was curious if that scope had a setting similar to trigger "normal" mode which does indeed blank the trace if not adjusted to trigger. However, you would not get the vertical component with no sweep like he currently has if working properly.

[mansaxel]

I'm confused. There is strain relief for the final connection, but none for the permanent wiring. Stuffing glands should have been used for those as well. Tower clips are complete shite, use proper pvc-covered metal P-clips. That junction box looks like one of those cheap shite Gewiss ones, better to use a proper Wiska membrane box, which is actually waterproof (IP66 ).

I sort of expected you to be. Facts are:

• This is the approved usage, to IP65, of this Schneider / Thorsman junction box. Not a cheap import, but one of the best ones available.
• Tower clips, again by Schneider / Thorsman, are extremely sturdy if they're the right brand. There is a lot of case-hardened cheese around, but if one buys quality, there is no crying involved. I've nailed 1000s of them, and if you don't cheat and try using  them in drywall or concrete, without using an approved anchor (for nailing!) they'll sit very well, for a long time.  Here, in wood, it's a joy to drive them in. They want to fit and sit right, for lack of a better description of how good they are.

We all are set in our ways. This is not a very controversial way to be set in Sweden. Rather the standard middle-of-the road way.  Stuffing glands are optional on membrane boxes, unless the cable is loose, which the rubber one is here. It is used more as a strain relief, since the membranes are approved to IP65, and would have worked for the rubber cable too, unless there was a need for physical restraint.

My favourite tool in this:



The Hultafors EL is the electricians best friend. It is insanely expensive, over 100 money, but can with luck be found used for less. IIRC I paid 35 money.

("money" is very roughly  10SEK / 1€ / 1 $ / Half the Russian GDP -- and is used for back-of-envelope comparing prices with a precision to Heathkit standards, i.e  /- 20% or so.    )

[Robert763]

Just because it is Monday morning, and a new work week is dawning here -- with the best spring weather available -- I'd like to stoke the fire a bit.



This is why one does use things invented the last 15 years, too. Because doing it the old and bad way would have been illegal and dangerous, and on top, tedious and time-consuming at best. This is under our patio. There's (EKK / EQX / NYM-J / Romex / Twin-and earth) fixed cables are fastened on the beam, and on the outside of said beam are small downlights fitted:


(borrowed pic)

The downlights could have had the installation cable into them, but that would have been pretty awkward and not very elegant, and required lots of swearing. Since I'm having a junction box anyway to branch off (there definitely is not room in the light for 2 cables) I opted for a piece of outdoor-grade rubber cable, with a strain-relief fitting,  feeding the light, and then switching to "install" style cable in the box. The white cable is single-core; the rubber one is extra stranded. Joining those in a wire nut would have been tedious and certainly outside the envelope of permitted combinations for our wire nuts. Alternatively, a nylon-insulated barrier strip could have been used. That would, as I did inside the light, (where there is such a small insulated barrier strip for live and neutral, with ground on a screw in the body) have required ferrules and somehow finding a barrier strip that takes three wires.

Fortunately, we have Wago 221 series. Strip to 11mm,  twist slightly if stranded, flip the lever open, insert cable, flick lever down. Done.

TE involvement: none. I watched a lot of CuriousMarc videos and browsed for function generators and RF signal generators a lot, though.

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and not into it?

[med6753]

 What is this and what am I missing here?  "Crypto Mining Mobile Unit"  Is this on the level or is someone gonna get the shaft? 

https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/ele/d/highland-crypto-mining-mobile-unit/7460659166.html

[mansaxel]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

[Robert763]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and not into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

Still poor practice to have cables running down inro seal. No reason not to have it the other way or  "drip loop"

[Robert763]

What is this and what am I missing here?  "Crypto Mining Mobile Unit"  Is this on the level or is someone gonna get the shaft? 

https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/ele/d/highland-crypto-mining-mobile-unit/7460659166.html

The only reason I can see for it being mobile is so you can use someone else's electricity supply.... 

[BU508A]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

I have to disagree. It is not okay, because mounting the cables like this will cause stress on the membrane and it will become leaky over time.

Here is a picture on how to install cables correctly:



Source: https://www.jostudy.de/jowiki/geraetedosen

[mansaxel]

I have to disagree. It is not okay, because mounting the cables like this will cause stress on the membrane and it will become leaky over time.

Yes, that's a valid concern. I'll fix that.

[ch_scr]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

I have to disagree. It is not okay, because mounting the cables like this will cause stress on the membrane and it will become leaky over time.

Here is a picture on how to install cables correctly:



Source: https://www.jostudy.de/jowiki/geraetedosen

While that picture looks quite helpfull, and the concern of the stressed membrane seems valid to me, one of the most important things teached to me by the electrician greybeards for outside installations was (admittedly less urgent in this case where the junction box seems placed somewhere where the sun doesn't shine) to have them equipped with a tiny (1-2mm) hole in the lowest corner, so the inevitable condensation can drip out.

[Specmaster]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

Still good practise to arrange cables entering or leaving to either have a drip loop, or if not practicable, having slight downward angle to deter water from pooling in the membrane area and then possibly freezing which can then compromise the sealing. 

[Specmaster]

I hope the picture is upside down and any liquid on the white cable will be running away from the box and no into it?

There are membranes on all 4 sides, and it is OK to have cables entering in any direction.

IP 65 allows for sprays of water from any direction, as well, so worry is moot.

I have to disagree. It is not okay, because mounting the cables like this will cause stress on the membrane and it will become leaky over time.

Here is a picture on how to install cables correctly:



Source: https://www.jostudy.de/jowiki/geraetedosen

While that picture looks quite helpfull, and the concern of the stressed membrane seems valid to me, one of the most important things teached to me by the electrician greybeards for outside installations was (admittedly less urgent in this case where the junction box seems placed somewhere where the sun doesn't shine) to have them equipped with a tiny (1-2mm) hole in the lowest corner, so the inevitable condensation can drip out.

Even that is no guarantee, I've seen them where condensation actually accumulates inside to a reasonable depth, so much so, that when removing the cover for whatever reason, water pours out because some little spider or other small creature has crawled through the drainage hole. Then they die inside and their bodies block the hole preventing drainage. 

[m k]

One or two drains in the shower?

BTW,
Anybody using USA stuff with IEC socket in Europe with voltage dropper, how it goes?