Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

I personally have used full synthethic at 5K intervals for decades. I base that decision entirely on observation of when the oil is dirty, and I blame that choice for the fact that I've not had a vehicle reach less than 200K miles since. Most modern vehicles are 4-cylinder; these engines rev higher and have closer tolerances than older generations, so while it is true there is less blow-by contamination, they also beat the oil up more through lean-burn heat and mechanical shear.

More frequent intervals not being eco-friendly is entirely a matter of how the used oil is handled; if you ensure it is recycled rather than dumped improperly, an irrelevant argument aside from the core existential evil of putting more money in big oil's pockets.

mnem
 

[med6753]

The crazy price increases are hitting the automotive consumable market big time. When I was working the CR-V and Civic were on a 6K mile oil change schedule. But now that I'm retired neither go more than 4K-5K/year so I put them on a 1 year oil change schedule regardless of mileage (as long as under 6K miles). Both will be due for an oil change in June. Decided I better stock up on oil/filters now and I'm glad I did. I saw one 5 quart synthetic oil jump from $25USD to $46USD in one day. Purolator economy filters $12USD on Amazon (new stock) vs only $8USD for their premium filter (old stock). Which means restock is probably going to be $15USD or more. Obviously I went with the premium filter and I snagged Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5qt for $25USD from Walmart. You can bet that price will go nuts soon.

The CR-V has 55K miles on it and the original front brake pads. It will be due for NYS Inspection in May and I figure they will need replacement. The prices for new Chinese rotors at the local auto parts stores are ridiculous. The prices for the pads are nuts too. The offerings on Amazon seem to be nothing more than cheap Chinese but not cheap price wise. There is a Honda Dealer in Rhode Island that sells OE Honda parts on line at a discount. I was able to get genuine Honda OE brake pads and rotors cheaper than any other source. That has never happen before. OE is usually the most expensive. $200USD including shipping/tax which is a bargain.

     

I know there are some firm opinions on this, but you really don't need to change synthetic oil in a modern engine every 6,000 miles 1 year.  A 12,000 mile 2 year change is perfectly OK. A longer interval is a lot more eco-friendly too. It's interesting to read the UK and North American versions of the service schedule for identical cars (have to make sure it's the same engine though). The American service intervls are a lot shorter. This is despite the fact tha average journeys are much shorter in the UK.
It seems to be marketing driven thing in the USA.

Yes, I prefer not to get into a debate about oil change intervals. 6K mile or 1 year is my comfort level. And I have a Civic with 193K miles on it that consumes NO oil between changes. That's my proof.

The old oil is recycled. So it's "eco friendly" in that it saves production of new crude. 

[Brumby]

While I'm no slave to the marketers, I will say that changing the oil is one of THE simplest ways to achieve longevity in an internal combustion engine.

[mnementh]

Checked out the 539A today. (SNIP) ...All magic smoke stayed in place.      

Neat old tired iron there! 

Does it have any configuration of switches that yields X-Y mode for misuse as a junction tester or CRO Clock...?

mnem
 

[med6753]

While I'm no slave to the marketers, I will say that changing the oil is one of THE simplest ways to achieve longevity in an internal combustion engine.

Absolutely. 

[Brumby]

Does it have any configuration of switches that yields X-Y mode for misuse as a junction tester or CRO Clock...?

It certainly does.  On the timebase control, the central red knob is the vernier.  It is actually a switch pot.  The timebase is calibrated when the vernier is fully clockwise, with its range of operation down to fully counterclockwise.  One movement further counterclockwise and the switch clicks, turning the timebase off completely.  To the right of this switch, there are 3 red banana jacks ... the top one is for "X Input".

I'll do a Lissajous figure for you.  That will be later - gotta hit the hay now.

[med6753]

Does it have any configuration of switches that yields X-Y mode for misuse as a junction tester or CRO Clock...?

It certainly does.  On the timebase control, the central red knob is the vernier.  It is actually a switch pot.  The timebase is calibrated when the vernier is fully clockwise, with its range of operation down to fully counterclockwise.  One movement further counterclockwise and the switch clicks, turning the timebase off completely.  To the right of this switch, there are 3 red banana jacks ... the top one is for "X Input".

I'll do a Lissajous figure for you.  That will be later - gotta hit the hay now.

Does it have an internal astigmatism control to clear up some of the trace fuzziness on the edges?

[Brumby]

Haven't got that far yet.  Other things on the To Do list.

I know that isn't a valid excuse in these circles ... but - hey.


That's it for me tonight....  Over and out.

[Saskia]

for the CNG Octavia Skoda stipulates an Oil Change Interval of 9000 miles (or once per year). Service is every 18kmiles, however they did not specify any timing belt change interval. Now I trust VAG as much as I trust a crack depended hooker on withdrawal, so I try to err on the side of caution.

Next task:
in the house:
fix the bloody door of our garden shed
put in flooring in upper level
put in electric cabling in upper level

<-- not allowed to do the actual installation work, because I don't have the proper certificate.
Also I do want a 4 eye principle there ...

[Ice-Tea]

...service...

I heard of this. 

Also: 400MHz LPF. Now I need to decide if I want to invest the time to get the screen brighter...

[McBryce]

...service...

I heard of this. 

Also: 400MHz LPF. Now I need to decide if I want to invest the time to get the screen brighter...

Just use it in a darkened room!

McBryce.

[Ice-Tea]

...service...

I heard of this. 

Also: 400MHz LPF. Now I need to decide if I want to invest the time to get the screen brighter...

Just use it in a darkened room!

McBryce.

Please don't tempt me to keep this one... Cause I will 

[med6753]

I know there are some firm opinions on this, but you really don't need to change synthetic oil in a modern engine every 6,000 miles 1 year.  A 12,000 mile 2 year change is perfectly OK. A longer interval is a lot more eco-friendly too. It's interesting to read the UK and North American versions of the service schedule for identical cars (have to make sure it's the same engine though). The American service intervls are a lot shorter. This is despite the fact tha average journeys are much shorter in the UK.
It seems to be marketing driven thing in the USA.

And as far as the shorter change intervals in the USA than in the UK there's a good reason for this and it's not marketing. It has to do with oil viscosity recommendations. The 2004 Civic specifies 5W-20 oil at 10K mile intervals. The 2013 CR-V specifies 0W-20 oil and use the oil life monitor as a guide. Those requirements are NOT for engine protection. They are to meet corporate fuel economy objectives. I could probably give my engines better protection by pissing into the crankcase. If you look at the same engine in Europe (and I have) most recommendations go no lower than 5W-30 and in many cases are higher. Both my engines are on a steady diet of 5W-30 and are perfectly happy with it. So what if I lose a few MPG. It beats a car payment.     

[m k]

What is the service interval of a new van there?

Here it is not short.

[med6753]

What is the service interval of a new van there?

Here it is not short.

You have to be more specific. What maker? Ford, GM, VW, etc?

[m k]

Does it really matter.

I read that Ford there has 36k miles or 24 months.

Here first one was 24 months or 20k or 30k km, can't remember.
But I'm not sure of the mileage of the second either, can be +30k or +50k.

Doesn't really change the feeling that it's pretty much for a van.

Edit,
this for ecological adblue thingy.

[med6753]

Does it really matter.

I read that Ford there has 36k miles or 24 months.

Here first one was 24 months or 20k or 30k km, can't remember.
But I'm not sure of the mileage of the second either, can be +30k or +50k.

Doesn't really change the feeling that it's pretty much for a van.

Edit,
this for ecological adblue thingy.

OK, I looked up Ford Transit Van which I believe is sold in Europe but I don't know if it has a gas or diesel engine. In order to get specific info I need a VIN which obviously I don't have. But in general specs it stated that the oil should be changed every 7.5K - 10K miles. And I don't know what viscosity is required.

[Cerebus]

And as far as the shorter change intervals in the USA than in the UK there's a good reason for this and it's not marketing. It has to do with oil viscosity recommendations. The 2004 Civic specifies 5W-20 oil at 10K mile intervals. The 2013 CR-V specifies 0W-20 oil and use the oil life monitor as a guide. Those requirements are NOT for engine protection. They are to meet corporate fuel economy objectives. I could probably give my engines better protection by pissing into the crankcase. If you look at the same engine in Europe (and I have) most recommendations go no lower than 5W-30 and in many cases are higher. Both my engines are on a steady diet of 5W-30 and are perfectly happy with it. So what if I lose a few MPG. It beats a car payment. 

Although I can see the logic in that I find it surprising simply because, traditionally, fuel economy in European countries has been more of an issue than in the US. When I last compared governmental fuel economy objectives between the EU and US, which I will freely admit was a long time ago, the EU objectives were more stringent than the US objectives, so much so that the US objectives looked like a token effort in comparison.

So how do international brands like Honda meet traditionally stricter EU requirements with thicker oils, but have to specify lower viscosity oils to hit US targets? Either the US targets have got tighter than EU targets (which possibility I admit but instinctively doubt, and am currently feeling too lazy to research) or there's something else going on.

[med6753]

And as far as the shorter change intervals in the USA than in the UK there's a good reason for this and it's not marketing. It has to do with oil viscosity recommendations. The 2004 Civic specifies 5W-20 oil at 10K mile intervals. The 2013 CR-V specifies 0W-20 oil and use the oil life monitor as a guide. Those requirements are NOT for engine protection. They are to meet corporate fuel economy objectives. I could probably give my engines better protection by pissing into the crankcase. If you look at the same engine in Europe (and I have) most recommendations go no lower than 5W-30 and in many cases are higher. Both my engines are on a steady diet of 5W-30 and are perfectly happy with it. So what if I lose a few MPG. It beats a car payment. 

Although I can see the logic in that I find it surprising simply because, traditionally, fuel economy in European countries has been more of an issue than in the US. When I last compared governmental fuel economy objectives between the EU and US, which I will freely admit was a long time ago, the EU objectives were more stringent than the US objectives, so much so that the US objectives looked like a token effort in comparison.

So how do international brands like Honda meet traditionally stricter EU requirements with thicker oils, but have to specify lower viscosity oils to hit US targets? Either the US targets have got tighter than EU targets (which possibility I admit but instinctively doubt, and am currently feeling too lazy to research) or there's something else going on.

I'm too lazy too. I honestly have no clue. Your guess is as good as mine.

[AVGresponding]

Worse case I guess I could trim the edge of the PCB where it sits in the card edge connector, so that it sinks a bit lower...

Very nice Vince.
Looks like an easy fix for aligning the nixies: Just take a small round file to the PCB and turn the mounting holes for the nixie sockets into slots.

Nooooooooo!!!

If one of your children's ears is lower than the other, do you trim some off the lobe to make them symmetrical? Love them as they are!



Thanks for the internals pics Vince, it's interesting to see how two manufacturers approach the same task and end up with two very similar and yet different answers. I'd guess that once you re-seat the boards they'll stay in place as long as you don't move the instruments around too much.

[Robert763]

...service...

I heard of this. 

Also: 400MHz LPF. Now I need to decide if I want to invest the time to get the screen brighter...

$450 for an LCD upgrade /www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133915560249
Difficult decision if for resale. The cheap "nanoVNA" type unit have somwhaat spoilt the hobby market for VNAs, not that there ws much of a market in the first place. Professional users may tend to want newer units. The E is the one of the more saleable VNAs.

[Robert763]

My final comments on oil changes:
Putting 5l of oil through the refinery, packaging transport and re-cycle process is greener than 10l in two lots.
There is a lot more to modern oil specifications than the viscosity rating.
The colour of the oil is not an indication of it's condition. For example oil in a diesel engine goes black in  few hundred miles but the alst diesel engined car I owned had a 35,000km (21,000 mile) / 2 year oil change interval. That engine will easilly do over 200,000 miles.

[Ice-Tea]

...service...

I heard of this. 

Also: 400MHz LPF. Now I need to decide if I want to invest the time to get the screen brighter...

$450 for an LCD upgrade /www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133915560249
Difficult decision if for resale. The cheap "nanoVNA" type unit have somwhaat spoilt the hobby market for VNAs, not that there ws much of a market in the first place. Professional users may tend to want newer units. The E is the one of the more saleable VNAs.

Beats the 950$ for a dumbass power supply for an EXG RF gen.

I might replace the backlight or put a LED strip but I'm not gonna pay 450$ for an upgrade. I actually hope it will be the reflector foil that came loose so I don't have to replace it.

Yeah, I'm cheap.

[med6753]

My final comments on oil changes:
Putting 5l of oil through the refinery, packaging transport and re-cycle process is greener than 10l in two lots.
There is a lot more to modern oil specifications than the viscosity rating.
The colour of the oil is not an indication of it's condition. For example oil in a diesel engine goes black in  few hundred miles but the alst diesel engined car I owned had a 35,000km (21,000 mile) / 2 year oil change interval. That engine will easilly do over 200,000 miles.

I totally agree that today's synthetic oils, regardless of viscosity, are a far cry and vastly superior to the mineral oils that my parents and I grew up with. In those days with 6V charging systems and winter temperatures you used a straight 20W or even 10W if you had any hopes of the engine cranking. But as soon as the warm weather hit out it came and straight 30W or 10W-30 went in. And back then oil change intervals were as little as 2K miles. The Germans found out this little fact the hard way in the first winter they had invaded Russia.

Also agree, especially in diesel engines, that oil color generally does not indicate it's condition. But in a gas engine totally black oil I think is a good indicator that it should be changed. But in reality the only thing that can tell you for sure is an oil analysis. But who's gonna pay for that every time you think it needs to be changed?

Actually, rail road operators DO rely on oil analysis for their diesel engine fleet. The engine oil is never changed unless the analysis indicates an issue. But if it does indicate a problem chances are the engine must be torn down and rebuilt. But under normal circumstances they only add oil to make up for what is consumed.       

[m k]

Does it really matter.

I read that Ford there has 36k miles or 24 months.

Here first one was 24 months or 20k or 30k km, can't remember.
But I'm not sure of the mileage of the second either, can be +30k or +50k.

Doesn't really change the feeling that it's pretty much for a van.

Edit,
this for ecological adblue thingy.

OK, I looked up Ford Transit Van which I believe is sold in Europe but I don't know if it has a gas or diesel engine. In order to get specific info I need a VIN which obviously I don't have. But in general specs it stated that the oil should be changed every 7.5K - 10K miles. And I don't know what viscosity is required.

10k is a reasonable distance.

I forgot you don't have the Diesel culture like we have.
Here practically everything bigger than small grocery carriers were Diesel.
Teens will haul old RWD gas stuff from abroad and some may have gas guzzlers for what ever purposes but that's about it.

I read that Ford 2019- ecoboost gasoline is 30kkm/2y.
So 1.0 liter engine, feels quite much.