Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

Only a box?
I have at least 5 Really Useful Box shallow tray type bins of just toroids. And a 19l one just for un-cased Variacs. I have 7 cased Variacs.  Found a 36.5V 25A C core transformer at the back of the garage too. 
On Vince's question my basis is

Don't keep ANY SMPS transformers (possible exception would be one made with a marked, known, core and has not been glued or potted.)
Don't keep any unmarked "consumer" grade transformers.
Keep any marked commercial / industrial transformers especially toroids and those from know manufacturers.
For CRT flyback I'd keep a couple if they have separate HV windings. An external rectifier is bonus too.

In all honesty, this was my reaction too.  But like I just said, I was trying to be good.

I'll take exception to your statement about "consumer" transformers... two consumer gadgets I love to rob transformers from are a) nukeboxen and 2) old stereos, even the bigger bookshelf "pregnant boombox" ones by AIWA, Panasonic and Sony, etc. Those always have a good 200-400VA continuous-duty transformer with two 25-60V secondaries. Perfect for making small homebrew linear power supplies, and if you like the result, you can turn it dual-output.

The nukeboxen transformers... ehhh... what can I say? Any way you power them, you can get into lots of interesting trouble. 

And then, let's not get started talking about my collections of wall-wart & power bricks (ranging up to 20V/12A) and my server PSU sickness, which I pared down to 2 102L storage tubs before the Great White North adventure... 

mnem
 

Ahh, one thing to remember is you are in 60 Hz land and we are in 50 Hz. Transformers that are OK at 60Hz can be marginal at 50Hz. Most consumer transformers I've come across tend to designed towards the 60 Hz end of the spectrum.

Hmmm... so Japanese domestic brands, ie Sony, Matsushita/Panasonic, Hitachi, Toshiba etc which produce for their own market and export, as opposed to other Asian brands which produce primarily for export to the US, would then be more likely a good source from your side of the pond?

mnem

[Robert763]

I think the smoking gun lies with the detent ball assembly. Look at all the corrosion under that tab. If that little ball can't move it will jam the switch. Going to pull it apart.

I doubt it will be the detent. Note that both the shaft AND bushing are Aluminium / light alloy. This is a very bad combination. Almost certainly the shaft and bushing have galled and effectively are welded together.
There is no practical fix for this. You need to get a new switch mechanisim and swap the wafers over.
A longer one can be cut down. I have some if you are really stuck but postage is expensive these days.

EDIT link to galling description
https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-galling

Robert, I was trying to give the guy hope... aluminum oxide poisoning can be heartbreaking in cases like this.     IME, heat is the only chance of freeing up such a victim.

mnem
 

Why do you make this stuff up?  aluminum oxide poisoning   
Heat won't help either, the parts are welded together.

[tautech]

I think the smoking gun lies with the detent ball assembly. Look at all the corrosion under that tab. If that little ball can't move it will jam the switch. Going to pull it apart.

I doubt it will be the detent. Note that both the shaft AND bushing are Aluminium / light alloy. This is a very bad combination. Almost certainly the shaft and bushing have galled and effectively are welded together.
There is no practical fix for this. You need to get a new switch mechanisim and swap the wafers over.
A longer one can be cut down. I have some if you are really stuck but postage is expensive these days.

EDIT link to galling description
https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-galling

Robert, I was trying to give the guy hope... aluminum oxide poisoning can be heartbreaking in cases like this.     IME, heat is the only chance of freeing up such a victim.

mnem
 

Inclined to agree and always attempt to free stuck stuff up without adding any lube of any sort first. Patience is the key while trying to get even some minute movement and gradually working on getting more.
Gently gently catch the monkey. 

However our Larry Minor has shown me a thing or two with some of the commercial penetrants that can work wonders but not just any old stuff like weasels piss 40.

[mnementh]

Why do you make this stuff up?  aluminum oxide poisoning   
Heat won't help either, the parts are welded together.

It's old machinist slang for this very condition, Robert. Similar to a gunshot wound being called lead poisoning, because the condition is usually terminal. I picked it up from grand-dad, but old man Basche also referred to it the same way on his old motorbikes.

If they aren't completely welded fast, you might break them loose with heat. might.

Cheers,

mnem
 

[tautech]

I think the smoking gun lies with the detent ball assembly. Look at all the corrosion under that tab. If that little ball can't move it will jam the switch. Going to pull it apart.

I doubt it will be the detent. Note that both the shaft AND bushing are Aluminium / light alloy. This is a very bad combination. Almost certainly the shaft and bushing have galled and effectively are welded together.
There is no practical fix for this. You need to get a new switch mechanisim and swap the wafers over.
A longer one can be cut down. I have some if you are really stuck but postage is expensive these days.

EDIT link to galling description
https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-galling

Robert, I was trying to give the guy hope... aluminum oxide poisoning can be heartbreaking in cases like this.     IME, heat is the only chance of freeing up such a victim.

mnem
 

Inclined to agree and always attempt to free stuck stuff up without adding any lube of any sort first. Patience is the key while trying to get even some minute movement and gradually working on getting more.
Gently gently catch the monkey. 

However our Larry Minor has shown me a thing or two with some of the commercial penetrants that can work wonders but not just any old stuff like weasels piss 40.

A recent triumph comes to mind, a friend got a 2nd hand shotgun for claybird shooting only to find one of its removable chokes stuck fast in the barrel and even the best choke tool available wouldn't shift the little bugger.
A nice and tidy blued barrel isn't something you want to start peening or heating to free up the threads so a much more gentle approach was needed so although it's not a recognized penetrant we had some bulk CRC666 so we stood the barrel end in that for a month where after the internal choke tube was finally removed without incident. 
Ya gotta win the odd one. 

[med6753]

I can't get enough leverage to break free that 7/16 nut even with a 1/2 drive ratchet so I'm going to have to come up with some sort of clamping jig. And as you can see I had to further disassemble the switch deck so I work with just the center shaft. My clamps and other heavy tools are in the garage and it's too freaking cold out there today so I'll try tomorrow.

And yes, the shaft MIGHT be hopelessly galled in place. Until I get that nut off I really can't tell. But one good thing is the front C clip is free and spins.

If the shaft is galled heat as suggested and a hammer might free it up. Stay tuned.

[BU508A]

While med is taking his anti-gallum measures, the dwagon could do some 3D printing as suggested here in this video:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZmx60vMPl5/

 

[tautech]

Don't hurry this Mike, remember you're retired and don't need to panic. Let it stand in a low viscosity penetrant for a bit.

[Neepa]

Another solution might be a nut splitter. It would definitely remove the nut although it may damage the threads in the process.

[med6753]

Don't hurry this Mike, remember you're retired and don't need to panic. Let it stand in a low viscosity penetrant for a bit.

Agreed. Especially since chances of finding a replacement shaft of that length and 9 positions will be slim to none.

[BU508A]

This guys ist testing some low-viscosive penetrating oils:

[med6753]

Another solution might be a nut splitter. It would definitely remove the nut although it may damage the threads in the process.

I'm sure I'll be able to loosen that nut as soon as I can get it properly clamped.

[mnementh]

Inclined to agree and always attempt to free stuck stuff up without adding any lube of any sort first. Patience is the key while trying to get even some minute movement and gradually working on getting more.
Gently gently catch the monkey. 

However our Larry Minor has shown me a thing or two with some of the commercial penetrants that can work wonders but not just any old stuff like weasels piss 40.

IME, WD40 is really good for removing stickers from stuff you don't care if it gets stained, and as a summer substitute for ether so you don't strip the cylinder walls starting a reluctant engine. Other than that, it causes more collateral damage than it fixes. 

Grand-dad swore by a mix of ATF and kero applied with a paintbrush, and later "Ion-Activated PB Blaster"... I'll admit the latter has def saved a few rusty lugnuts, especially if applied immediately after heating (keep a bucket of water handy ) said lugnuts such that the heat wicks the stuff inside the threads. But you have to be desperate enough to not care about burning the paint, etc on the wheel, especially in case of a fire.

mnem


*cringe*         

[tautech]

Don't hurry this Mike, remember you're retired and don't need to panic. Let it stand in a low viscosity penetrant for a bit.

Agreed. Especially since chances of finding a replacement shaft of that length and 9 positions will be slim to none.

Forget Water Displacement formula 40, instead if you have some 2 stroke fuel try that but in the garage of course unless you have a furnace working there.

[Robert763]

More TEA.
A small package arrived today. A Palladin tools "Cable Check PC". Been lookin for one of these at a reasonable price for awhile. They seem to go for £50-60. I picked this one up for £30 shipped. It is in as new condition complete with original box and sleeve, albeit a bit tatty.
Simple idea two set of sockets. An output set up to 25 way. input is the same plus a 36 way centronics. An LED for each pin number on boh input and output plus two for screen.  A sequencer puts voltage in each output pin lighting the corresponding LED. Any input pin connected to that pin also lights. Pressing a button increments the sequencer.

Did a DIY version for work on the same principle many years ago but added a clock so you could increment the tested pin automatically. That had 100 leds and two 50W D types. There were then adaptor leads from 50W D to various "military" circular connectors. We also had "break-out" boxes with 50 4mm sockets and 2 50W D  connectrs that allowed in circuit measurements using the same adaaptor leads. Inital cost was high with but saved hours when you needed it. A contractor breaking a pin on a $40,000 computer box finally convinced management it was worth spending the money.

Edit Picture added.

[mnementh]

Another solution might be a nut splitter. It would definitely remove the nut although it may damage the threads in the process.

I'm sure I'll be able to loosen that nut as soon as I can get it properly clamped.

Ehhh... I wouldn't try to get the nut loose. No need to, and it's more valuable being stuck tight as a means to apply leverage to the assembly for breaking the shaft loose without damaging the threads, which is what's really important.

mnem
 

[Robert763]

Another solution might be a nut splitter. It would definitely remove the nut although it may damage the threads in the process.

I'm sure I'll be able to loosen that nut as soon as I can get it properly clamped.

Sorry to be the doom and gloom bringer but it's likely the nut is galled too.
I've been here before with these alloy switches.

One option if you don't have a spare long switch is to replace the bush with a steel or brass one from a short switch or even a pot.  Split the nut. Take shaft and bush out of the plate. Then cut 90% through the alloy bush with a small hack saw or cutting disk in a dremel in two places 180 degrees apart. Put a screwdriver in the slot and wist to split the bush. Polish the shaft an re-assemble with new bush.

[mnementh]

While med is taking his anti-gallum measures, the dwagon could do some 3D printing as suggested here in this video:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZmx60vMPl5/

 

That's really neat, but the Tornado is already busy making 3 more of this. Got another 4 hours to go, according to Cura.

What is it? Higher-stability replacements for ducked-up 3-in casters on a slab desk which will be used to hold... my other two 3D printers.



mnem
So yes, high priority, now that I'm no longer battling GI bugs and low blood sugar on account of not being able to eat...

[mnementh]

More TEA.   A small package arrived today. A Palladin tools "Cable Check PC". Been lookin for one of these at a reasonable price for awhile. They seem to go for £50-60. I picked this one up for £30 shipped. It is in as new condition complete with original box and sleeve, albeit a bit tatty...

Damn you Robert! 

Here I thought I'd gotten over the one I had stolen from my work vehicle almost a decade ago, which insurance replaced with a RJ-45 cable tester and adapters to DB-9, as the G1570 was long ago disco-ed out. They also replaced a 6-year-old-Dell D400 with a brammy-spankin'-new XPS13, so I can't really even gripe... but I will anyways, just this once.

It hurts just as much now as the day it was stolen. *sigh*   

mnem
*adds another item to his evilBay wish list*

[mnementh]

      eBay auction: #115259069636

mnem
 

[tautech]

Someone give Spec a poke to remind him Discord today ! 

[mnementh]

Sorry... daughter B-Day party any minute now. Y'all will have to get into trouble widdout da dwagon for a hour or two...

mnem
*toddles off to scrape his face and look at himself in the mirror*

[Saskia]

dunno if I can make it to discord. still on my way home with a metric ton of pinball and arcade stuff.

[dl6lr]

I don't think I want to look at my box of transformers... 

I have three or four boxes. I just tried to haul one from the attic to my storage. I thought it was screwed down to the floor until I removed the upper layer of xformers...

[AVGresponding]

Another solution might be a nut splitter. It would definitely remove the nut although it may damage the threads in the process.

I'm sure I'll be able to loosen that nut as soon as I can get it properly clamped.

I know it probably goes without saying, and I wouldn't want to be accused of trying to teach you how to suck eggs, but I would mention that it would be best to use a 6-point socket rather than a 12-point, or indeed any other kind of spanner, excepting a 6-point box/ring.

Sometimes oxide "welding" can be broken with careful and judicious application of impact tools. A blunted automatic centre punch can be useful, also impact drivers though these are far more important to have a delicate touch with, on such small fasteners.