On the TinkerDwagon's Bench today:
If I can't get the BMS to charge, I'll probably have to remove it and solder a JST/XH pigtail on the cell cluster so I can balance charge with the Reaktor.
Normally this kind of dickery with individual cells is a fool's errand; one is better off rebuilding the pack with known-good or new matched cells. But given the model, this pack is probably 3-5 years old; so it is possible I'll get lucky.
Ugggh. BMS is totes being a whiny little bitch. Refuses to start/turn on to charge, so balance charging the pack on the Reaktor. Safety fuse tests good, each voltage monitor leg tests the same resistance FWD/REV EXCEPT cell 1; it measures approx 630KΩ/10MΩ where the others measure ~5MΩ/10MΩ. This may or may not be a bad thing; cell 1 is where the BMS usually draws power for the supervisor chip.
It is entirely possible the pack sat unused long enough for this miniscule drain to have drawn cell 1 down to the point where the BMS shut down due to imbalance; only time will tell.
Well, time told... me to take a different approach.
After an afternoon doing the deep-dive trying to reverse-engineer and researching these particular batteries online, mostly what I was able to find was that a) They're effing expensive. b) I am probably actually related to Billy Connelly. (depth-first searches, ehhh...?!) and 3) You can buy a Chinesium BMS board just for the thing for aboot $15; it's marketed to 18650 cell recyclers/pack rebuilders, but you have to wait for the slow boat from China.
Well I have perfboard, a Dremel and oodles of generic Chinesium BMS boards.
This is a 20A module so probably a
wee bit overkill, but it's the only 4S one I have on hand with the correct configuration. First, I float the metal contact pads off the original BMS with my cheap Chinesium Hot-Air Rework station and onto the perfboard PCB I've carved out with my Dremel. Easy-peasy. Next, I add the balance pigtail and some main power straps.
Once I have the balance pigtail connected everywhere, I can plug it into the BMS & attach the power straps to the pack. I usually do (-) then (+) on these generic BMS modules; if you do them in the wrong order often the BMS will go into safety shutdown and you have to desolder them all, short the pins on the BMS for a few minutes to fully discharge it, then resolder all connections again. After that, time to stuff it all in the shell & screw it back together.
The Money Shot!Here I've cleared the first hurdle; dropping the battery in the Roomba, it powers up and doesn't have a shit-fit conniption aboot non-OEM battery. A little pigtail of Cat5 strands snaked out the compartment lets me observe as I connect the Roomba to the charger base; hurdle 2 cleared as it starts a normal charge and doesn't bitch that the battery is too hot/too cold/not the right type/not genuine/not possessed of the magical rings of Lhasa or whatever incantations it needs to make its little Roomba brain happy.
And just to keep it TEA, here's my HP Thermal Monitoring Hydration Cylinder full of... Iced Tea. Charge rate is very slow, but the pack is already fully charged. So now time for some IRL testing.
Roomba seems happy to run on this pack; it's been going almost 2 hours now while I made dinner and this post. It is very thorough, and much quieter overall than the Scooba.
Big
HELL YEAH : The Spot Clean mode works effing awesome; I set it after the front entry rug and it made short work of a good mess of crusty dirt chunks and tracked-in leaves. I can see this thing being a MVP come the change in seasons just for that.
That said... not a total win
yet. One thing I've seen out in the wild is manufacturers using the THERMISTOR circuit as more than a thermistor; they will often use it to communicate information aboot the battery back to the host device, either via simple voltage level monitoring or digital information they will tell the host battery type, capacity, Ser#, temp, even number of charge/discharge cycles and more.
So still more real life testing to go... If the unit thinks this is the wrong type of battery (NiMH instead of Li-Ion) it may set a wrong low-voltage threshold, or even try to charge it via peak-detection rather than CC/CV as a Li-xx pack needs. I'm not worried aboot it damaging anything with the BMS module acting as traffic cop; but it may not charge automatically like it should (this thing is supposed to find its dock and auto-park itself to charge); it may stop too soon or take days or just not start a proper charge cycle at all.
But at least I've confirmed pretty well that the cells in the pack are still good. I think.
If it doesn't work, I've had fun tinkering; then the choice will be whether to buy the bespoke Roomba Chinesium BMS, or just get a cheap NiMH pack off Amazon.
mnem