30V unloaded is not unusual; LED backlights are driven by a CC converter that will provide a fixed drive current no matter what the actual VFd of a LED string, as long as it is within a given operating voltage. The LED strip and converter are chosen to match vs voltage and desired drive current.
That 9V regulator output, if it is not to power the LCD, may be to power the BU Camera. This is why I suggested you check for continuity from the 9V Reg Vout to the LCD ribbon first. It may also run to the LCD as a signal to switch inputs to the analog camera line.
mnem
Again... I have already dug enough into the 9V rabbit hole... not saying this isn't it, just that it's now time to go chase other much more obvious leads = the FREAKING BACKLIGHT !!
How could I have 30V to it and it not working ! It's such an obvious problem, blatant, so why waste time down the 9V rabbit hole instead ?!
So I took the front panel assy apart to get at the LCD backlight. Unfortunately as you implied... it's built into the panel assembly itself, so no access.
So tried to test it, to light it up with my lab power supply. As you said it's most likely an LED not CCFL, so I can try to light it up with my lab power supply in series with a beefy current limiting resistor.. .as my power supply current limiting pot can't go lower than 50 or 70mA minimum or so, so was afraid it might fry the LED backlight...
Anyway, experimented a bit. At first even with 60Volts (the two floating output wired in series) I could not light it up, zero light, zero current flowing, nada, dead. So I thought OK see, the LED string in there is open circuit, it's dead that's all. Then as I wasfiddling with the panel, suddenly I saw a very brief flash of white light ! Hmmm.... dodgy connection is it ?! I tried tapping the panel, twisting it a bit, eventually light came back up, and stayed !
So I experimented with voltagE/current... turns out with a voltage as low as 8Volts is enought to light it up, and it draws less than 10mA... because the ammeter on the power supply has 10mA resolution, and it was showing 0.00A ...
So I kept playnig with it.. then eventually found out the problem is a dodgy connection where the black an dred LED wires exit the panel assembly !
So I would need to open it up to see if I can do something about it, oh no !!!!!
If it's like a TV set, the wires are just soldered to thin PCB holding all the white LEDs. So might be as simple as reflowing a couple joints ! ... IF I can open the panel assembly AND put it back together again properly... unlikely I guess !!!!
So... I reconnected the front panel PCB and LCD panel to the main board, just the bare boards not the front panel assemby/plastic... so that I can pwoer up the unit while style have access to the backlight wires / panel, so I can wiggle the wires at will.*
Power the unit up... no picture. 30V at the backlight driver output.
Wiggle wires and tap the screen.. LIGHT !! We have PICTURE !!!!!! This thing is WORKING !!!!!
With the backlight working, voltage goes down from 30V (which must the max/unloaded voltage then) to 8+ Volts.
Played with the thing for 30 minutes... backlight still working. So it's fixed... but no really ! Of course the moment I put everything back together again, OBVISOULY the backlight will stop working !
So... what to do ! If works for now... but can fail anytime. But fixing it required taking the LCD panel assy apart which could be fatal to the panel !
Granted, all it would do is bring it back to where it was when my friend gave it to me : "No picture".
So maybe we could just consider than I have nothing to lose so might as well give it a go ??
If soeone here did it before and can give advise, now is the time !
Will contact my friend to see what he wants to do.
I tried looking the LCD panel up on the web to see if one could buy a new panel, and for what money... but the part number I see at the back of the panel yields no result...