However nothing suitable cosmetically. Yes Xrunner you are right, it needs to look "factory" so as to look credible... otherwise the resulting appearance will do much more harm than good !
I got it right!
OK you get a cookie !
Well I'm glad I met someone more anal retentive than I am. I mean, if you went in and replaced all of the clips (so it all looks identical) with nice new plain white or black clamps it wouldn't be OK? I don't see how you can replace anything in the instrument with anything new (but a tad different looking) if your requirements are that stringent!
Nope, again the only reason to replace the 2 or 3 broken clips would be purely for aesthetics and nothing else. Replacing 100% of the clips with some horrible looking ones just to get rid of the few broken ones, makes zero aesthetic sense at all to me ?!
I have no dogma about keeping the thing 100% original though, it's on a case by case basis... it just so happens that in this particular case I find that keeping a few broken clips has zero functional impact and extremely marginal negative aesthetic impact. So that means if I replace all teh clips with something that does look right, it will do an awful lot more harm than good ! But of course if the clips were all broken and were mandatory for the operation of the instrument, well of course I would be willing to compromise !
I am just in the fortunate position here, that I do not have to compromise. Either I can find suitable replacement... or I keep it as is.
But in other areas I will have to compromise... Like say for example the electrolytic can caps ! The new ones obviously look nothing like the old ones, but no choice if I want the scope to live long and perform at its best. So I got my head around the fact that I will have to live with these modern caps in the instrument... because it's for its good. It's an instrument not a decoration, so I want to it to work 100% and work as perfectly and can be, or else no point owning it really !
So I compromised in the following way : I have decided to solder leave the original can caps in place( taking them out of circuit of course...) and solder the new caps on the underside of the deck. This way when you pop the covers you it still look original. Ideally I would restuff the old cans, but it takes work and equipment to do a job I would call acceptable, and I am not equipped just yet... but might be at some point. So it's still possible I might revisit the 575 later to removed the new caps and stuff them into the old cans... However it's a lot of work for very little aesthetic gain, since you can see the new caps, below the deck.
Other area I am willing to compromise, is repainting the cabinet/covers. It will be impossible to get teh perfect blue, have it spot on. Even if I take a spectrometer to analyze the paint of my type 310A which is pretty much NIB, hence I could use a "reference" for what the Tek blue might have been like out of the factory.... it's still not be 100%. So I have already decided not to go too far with this. As long as I cna mix some blue paint that look "credible" enough to my eyes, I will be happy. I have 20 Tek scopes and not two of them have the same same of blue anyway ! They all have had different lives...
So I will just try match my pristine 310A as close I can, and that will be it...
Went to my local Tollens Pro paint shop yesterday to pick up some pain. I asked them about mixing paint. They said they don't have a spectrometer, but they have a complete/comprehensive "RAL" colour book and their machine can do those. So I could bring a cover from my 310A and see if there is a RAL colour that's good enough. If not yeah, might bring the cover to car body shop for them to stick their spectrometer on it and repaint my crusty covers for me.