Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mansaxel]

This is stop motion. Done right.

[Cymaphore]

What did you try for temperature measurement? The Pt100?

Great. Turns out, the meter is not broken. I'm an idiot. Thanks for pointing it out. :-)

It has two modes:

St1 is "Mo", no idea what kind of sensor it expects there. Anyone has an idea? (obviously doesn't work with Type K, as I have confirmed already.........)

St2 is "Pt", works perfectly with some Pt100 sensor that I use for PLC testing, see the picture.

I don't have the manual, so I'll just blame it on that to avoid the obvious question why I didn't just read the labeling on the device.

[tautech]

Yes, I'm located in South Korea.

Oh wow, may be we should put a flag in a globe map for each TEA member location. It could be interesting to see...

Yeah we did that on the Harrison Lathe forum and maybe bitseeker can add a link to one in the OP.
A quick hunt for something that might work for us:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/

[Cerebus]

Yes, I'm located in South Korea.

Oh wow, may be we should put a flag in a globe map for each TEA member location. It could be interesting to see...

Yeah we did that on the Harrison Lathe forum and maybe bitseeker can add a link to one in the OP.
A quick hunt for something that might work for us:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/

Follow that link and you just get:

[xrunner]

Vince here ya go. I used the very clear picture I found of the panel and ran it through some Gimp trickery. I left on the black hole and the place with the trimmer, for registration marks for placement of the text. You can erase them if you want or do whatever. Whichever technique you decide to use to print the lettering, this should work pretty well.

[tautech]

Yes, I'm located in South Korea.

Oh wow, may be we should put a flag in a globe map for each TEA member location. It could be interesting to see...

Yeah we did that on the Harrison Lathe forum and maybe bitseeker can add a link to one in the OP.
A quick hunt for something that might work for us:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/

Follow that link and you just get:

Try this then:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1Dr-x78wz-uZdkzvshWVjGXjGy2Vh7PT1&ll=3.607207764165196%2C0&z=2

[mnementh]

   An evening Hermes delivery. What can it be?

Hmmmm.... shipped December of 1997, arrived tonight. Yup, sounds aboot right for Herpes... 

mnem
Delivering it at night was just so nobody would actually see them...

[Cerebus]

Try this then:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1Dr-x78wz-uZdkzvshWVjGXjGy2Vh7PT1&ll=3.607207764165196%2C0&z=2

I get just the same as before.

[AaronLee]

Sometime is funny to look up the most expensive scope on evilbay

This network analyzer is even better...

This listing is probably for the most loaded PNA-X ever in the history of eBay:

 

half of millllllllllion dolllarssss kabooom. 

After a few years we'll be buying them for under $100, "for parts or not working" and after acquiring just two of them we'll have a million dollar lab. Problem is, with likely a zillion ASIC or other custom parts which after they go bad, they'll remain just pretty boat anchor.

[mnementh]

This is stop motion. Done right.

Heh... that made my LegoManiac son actually put down Zelda to watch. 

mnem
Well-played. 

[mnementh]

My friends say they're procrastinators. I say I've been meaning to tell them for years, but I just keep putting it off.

We have a similar saying where I come from, only it lacks that sense of urgency. 

mnem
*toddles off to lick a bagel*

[mnementh]

Try this then:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1Dr-x78wz-uZdkzvshWVjGXjGy2Vh7PT1&ll=3.607207764165196%2C0&z=2

I get just the same as before.

Same up here in the GWN. I don't feel obligated enough to Gurrgle to sign into my account just to follow a link. Furk 'em.

mnem
 

[Vince]

Vince here ya go. I used the very clear picture I found of the panel and ran it through some Gimp trickery. I left on the black hole and the place with the trimmer, for registration marks for placement of the text. You can erase them if you want or do whatever. Whichever technique you decide to use to print the lettering, this should work pretty well.

Thanks for the effort ! 

... but I can't use that !

The resolution is way too poor for a good quality printing at 300dpi on a laser printer.  Your original pic is barely good enough for printing, and the reworked B&W is twice smaller, 45KB, it's even more compressed. Zooming on the text is far from sharp enough for printing...

But I appreciate the effort any way ! 

Only way to print it is to recreate everything from scratch in a word processor with true type fonts, so it's scalable and prints perfectly at 300dpi, and export it to PDF.

No worries, not the end of the world to do, will do ! I only needed a good picture of the panel so I know what text to type where, that's it !
Your picture will help for sure, much sharper than the one I found on Tekwiki.

Your pic also helps on two accounts, and was worth it if just for that !   

1)

Text is BLACK on your pic ! So that means Tek did not care that much about the red colour ! Black red go figure how they decided one way or another on the production line ?!  I mean, at the right of the panel, we can see the part number : 337-182 , in both cases.
So, same part number, but one is black the other one is red, go figure ! 
But that's great, means it's 100% fine for me to print in black, which gives me more options ! :-)
For one, I can use my laser printer... it's B&W, don't have a colour laser (or inkjet).
Also means I can use laser etching if I want, will be fine as well.

2) The mysterious hole in the center of the panel... looking at your pic, we can clearly see it's not a hole, it's a RUBBER PLUG ! 
So now I need to find a rubber plug, more problems ! 

So... Cubdriver or Oculus, could you look at your panel and remove that plug to take pics and dimensions please, so I know what to search for ?
Hoping it's a standard item I can buy somewhere...
Would also need the diameter of the matching hole in the panel.

Curvus Tracerux is thanking you in advance for your contribution ! 

[xrunner]

No problem. Use whatever you can!

[tautech]

Try this then:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1Dr-x78wz-uZdkzvshWVjGXjGy2Vh7PT1&ll=3.607207764165196%2C0&z=2

I get just the same as before.

Well you hunt for a better solution. 
In the end if we are to do this it needs to be something bitseeker can add into the OP and something reasonably accessible to us all.

After a few minutes looking further this one might be a reasonable solution for those that can't be shagged to log into their Google A/c. 
Still, someone has to set this up and provide login info for members to access and drop their location pin which also needs be labeled with their EEVblog handle:
https://www.pinmaps.net/mymaps/

[Cerebus]

After a few minutes looking further this one might be a reasonable solution for those that can't be shagged to log into their Google A/c. 

What Google account? I don't have one, I never will.

[nixiefreqq]

was about to try to clean this off.

then realized that it gives my 2366 a back story.

what would they do with an Oscope on an old rustbucket like that?

(and how did they get the hull number wrong?)   edit  never mind....when you blow it up it does say 448.


https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/naval-subjects-collection/l45--us-navy-ships/121-140/l45-132-05-01-uss-illusive--mso-448-.html

[mnementh]

This is to tempt bd into a new DOS-Box build, since he has the money after kicking fApple to the curb over "egregious invasion of privacy issues surrounding their new CSAM policy".

Time to build a new "exit plan", buddy.

mnem

(I saved up calories all day so  )

[Neomys Sapiens]

What did you try for temperature measurement? The Pt100?

Great. Turns out, the meter is not broken. I'm an idiot. Thanks for pointing it out. :-)

It has two modes:

St1 is "Mo", no idea what kind of sensor it expects there. Anyone has an idea? (obviously doesn't work with Type K, as I have confirmed already.........)

St2 is "Pt", works perfectly with some Pt100 sensor that I use for PLC testing, see the picture.

I don't have the manual, so I'll just blame it on that to avoid the obvious question why I didn't just read the labeling on the device.

Ok, now you have me more baffled than a double baffle muzzle brake.
When I read your post I was optimistic to have an answer for the 'Mo' soon. Despite the fact that nothing rang in my brain - I have sources. Denkste. I perused every tome on sensors and temperature measurement within reach - without the slightest hint about a type of RTD (or even thermocouples or other sensors) identified by the 'Mo' designation. Also no hint of temperature measurement using molybdenum. Even a 3-volume work on measurement of non-electrical quantities - Nullinger.

So what else could it mean? Monel? Metal oxide? Motorschutzfuehler? The latter would make some sense in a multimeter for industrial purposes, if one could check on the function of the commonly used thermistors for the protection of windings.
The range although seems congruent with the definition for Ni-type RTDs. But how does one arrive at 'Mo' from 'Ni'?
Also, as you might have already found out, no manual to be found on the web. We have to get behind that 'Mo'!

[beanflying]

Well, two 3478A's went for ~£120 each today, had a cheeky £45 opening bid on one of them, but it wasn't to be... never mind, I have more than enough bench DMMs anyway...
 



Been trawling ebay for some decent verniers, and my conclusions are (a) there's a lot of garbage out there, (b) there's quite a few fake Mitutoyos out there, and (c) most of the good stuff is overpriced.

I'm reduced to making speculative purchases of (probably) fake Mitutoyos and hopeful bids on quality used ones.   

How desperate are you? If you can wait awhile, keep an eye open either Aldi or Lidl stores to publish their weekly special buy list, a couple of times a year they both get in stock some verniers that while not top drawer ones, they are considering the price pretty dammed good. They are same units as both Med and Mnem have but with a different brand name on them, and they are certainly upto the job for the hobbiest.

The question here is can we trust a man who spells hobbyist "hobbiest" to be actually talking about "verniers" at Lidl and Aldi and not about "veneers". 

I am now going to go on and make the most  massive. most embarrassing spelling mistakes in every other message I post this week. 

Ignoring the spelling 

You need to consider the cheapies as just that and until you have a degree of 'confidence' in what you are being told you are still guessing so grab some known pins or bearings and measure them. Given the anvils on ALL verniers or digitals calipers there is a degree of flex and parallelisim issues between them. The second shot here if I cranked down on the jaws it will read 25.37 but using the wheel and careful alignment in the horizontal it consistantly reads .01. The Mitutoyo consistently reads maybe 0.002 high so are the cheapies using an imperial scale and is it a rounding issue 

Doing the recent XY table measurement I was using the "Mituitung"  DTI and not the Mitutoyo as on relative measurements or deviation the actual number doesn't matter as much more a case of did it vary and by 'about' how much.

[mnementh]

Ok, now you have me more baffled than a double baffle muzzle brake.
When I read your post I was optimistic to have an answer for the 'Mo' soon. Despite the fact that nothing rang in my brain - I have sources. Denkste. I perused every tome on sensors and temperature measurement within reach - without the slightest hint about a type of RTD (or even thermocouples or other sensors) identified by the 'Mo' designation. Also no hint of temperature measurement using molybdenum. Even a 3-volume work on measurement of non-electrical quantities - Nullinger.

So what else could it mean? Monel? Metal oxide? Motorschutzfuehler? The latter would make some sense in a multimeter for industrial purposes, if one could check on the function of the commonly used thermistors for the protection of windings.
The range although seems congruent with the definition for Ni-type RTDs. But how does one arrive at 'Mo' from 'Ni'?
Also, as you might have already found out, no manual to be found on the web. We have to get behind that 'Mo'!

My WAG was thermocouple. Why? Hey, I said WAG... but possibly language barrier/people who speak English as a 2nd or 3rd language. I'd look for a few standard thermocouples to try.

Of course, you could pretty easily see if so; a thermocouple range will be a voltage measurement not resistance, so will not output a voltage. This you can confirm by testing for voltage output with another meter.

mnem
 

[med6753]

what would they do with an Oscope on an old rustbucket like that?




https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/naval-subjects-collection/l45--us-navy-ships/121-140/l45-132-05-01-uss-illusive--mso-448-.html

Easy. Look at all the antennas on the main mast. 

[mnementh]

mnem
agitating-ily*

[mnementh]

what would they do with an Oscope on an old rustbucket like that?



https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/naval-subjects-collection/l45--us-navy-ships/121-140/l45-132-05-01-uss-illusive--mso-448-.html

Easy. Look at all the antennas on the main mast.

Yeah... any Navy craft is full of electronics... and they are constantly being retrofit until decommissioned. A battery-op scope is an obvious necessity here, and yours now has provenance...

mnem
 

[VK5RC]

This is stop motion. Done right.

Heh... that made my LegoManiac son actually put down Zelda to watch. 

mnem
Well-played. 

I would argue that this is best stop-motion done for many years.
https://youtu.be/41BX9zn_qZo