Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[xrunner]

Of course there is the question of how long and good will the sticker last, exposed to the intense heat of the instrument.
But alas, realistically, the 575 is now in retirement so even once restored it will probably less than a 100 hours worth of service before I die. So the sticker should probably be fine...

I'm already making progress on the graphics! I found a nice source picture with a super-clean shot of all the text graphics for the panel. I'm working on the images you will need to make the stickers. This is just a first pass for you to examine but I think you will be able to do it this way. I looked at the area the panel fits to and I don't see much of a heat problem near it. Certainly the nuclear-powered fan in that thing will move enough air. Be back with results later today ...

 

[Vince]

Vince, you are very lucky...and I am surprised....that the 575 works at all considering it's overall mechanical condition. A whole clan of Gorillas had a go at that scope and it appears that it spent some time stored in a damp area. I've never seen a Tek scope in such poor shape. Hopefully you can find or make bits needed to get it presentable and running stable. 

It's sort of ironic. I have this Type 547 here which is in very good condition yet it keeps blowing up.     

Ironic indeed ! 

Wanna swap ?! NOPE I keep my 575 ! 
Have already two 547 anyway... hopefully they won't be as painful as yours !    At any rate I learn from your experiences / problems so keep posting your progress so I can benefit from it ! 

The rust yeah... maybe the guy lied to me about that, arf, you just can't trust anybody these days ! People suck ! 

But I think I can get it to look decent, given enough time to sort out all the various required restoration techniques... and some experimentation on donor scopes prior to that of course. Not going to risk an un-tested technique on the 575, little guy is too precious to me... aim is to make it better not worse !

As for the CRT... the neck is already moving around as it is, with the clamp tightened, because the part you and cubdriver pointed out, that I though was missing, might still be there but made of rubber  not plastic, so it deteriorates .. disintegrates over time, like big time in my case. So much so that the neck is completely loose...

I will remove the CRT assembly from a donor scope, pull the CRT assembly of the 575 and compare them, see if I can reuse the part from a scope.

@Cubdriver : could you possibly take a good/usabel, head on macro picture of the missing panel, and maybe if you have calipers, draw a little sketch to give me dimensions and the size and location of the 5 holes ? Especially the larger on used to get to the trimmer cap...

Curvus Tracexus, the ancient Greek god in charge of looking after Tek stuff, will be forever in your debt ! I will, too... 

[Saskia]

Curvus Tracexus sounds more latin than greek ...
you may be able to 3d print the collar using elastic SLA resin.
I did not investigate and currently do not have time for that.

However I did get an SLA printer for low bucks, so I may be able to do so in the future.

[Cerebus]

The South Queensferry (where  -hp- moved their UK operation from Bedford during the latter half of the 60s) history was posted here some weeks ago, and it indicates, IIRC, that the move from Bedford meant that some QA issues crept up. Not all skilled assembly staff elected to move north, and the trainees had some problems keeping up.

"Not all"? I suspect hardly any. Moving from Bedford in England (where the population is 1/5 Italian) to South Queensferry in Scotland (where the population is 1/5 lard) is a big ask. I'd be surprised if even 20% made the move. It's as far as Stockholm to Malmö, it would mean effectively cutting yourself off from all your friends and family except for special occasions.

[bd139]

Quick lunchtime job as the X2 caps arrived:

Fully dismantled 5334B board extracted ready for surgery



Species "mirum uacuatur" removed from the device and replaced. At the same time the coupling cap was moved from internal xtal oscillator to oven can oscillator.



Job done



Sealed up and working. I will calibrate the frequency on it properly at some point in the future

[Zucca]

I do not know what is worst: RIFA or Win11.
I think the disappointment to the users will be comparable.

[Specmaster]

While I was googling to see what "mirum uacuatur" meant (I had an idea but just wanted to make sure), I came this rather charming shot of a Samsung Galaxy Note battery and just the photo says it all that you really need to know 

[med6753]

He did mentioned not wanting any hp scopes a few pages back and I thought the same too, might take a few more posts before I get told to "piss up a rope" . 

David

David, I kindly ask you to go piss up a rope. 

[med6753]

More scope cart.

The plywood is done. Next step is to trim the door to size then sand entire unit. Taking a break right now. It is beastly outside. Not really hot but relative humidity is a soggy 80%. I do not do well in high humidity. I'm soaked from sweating. 

More later when I get back out there.

[Specmaster]

I know precisely how you feel, I hate hot weather for the same reason, if I have to do anything outside then late autumn (fall) and early spring is my best time of the year, always was even when I was a lanky streak of piss let alone now I've piled on the pounds.

[med6753]

I know precisely how you feel, I hate hot weather for the same reason, if I have to do anything outside then late autumn (fall) and early spring is my best time of the year, always was even when I was a lanky streak of piss let alone now I've piled on the pounds.

Even as a kid I had a low tolerance to heat/humidity. I could never live in a tropical climate. I would melt to a puddle. 

[mnementh]

No reason in the world he can't make a little L-tab from a scrap of brass or steel and solder it to the back of the contact leaf. As for the silver contacts themselves, if they really are that crusty, while he has the switch out to fix that tab a few passes with some 1500-grit emery film will bring them back.

mnem

No need to make the L tab, I kept the one that broke off !  It's just that I have no experience and gear to do "micro" soldering, or any soldering really ! Well I mean other than electronic stuff o course...
The strip broke just one mm from the contacting element, so not much room for mistakes or I would melt the contact...

Hey... I am thinking, to get around this... maybe I could just add a supporting strip beneath the broken strip ? Then maybe just glue it all together, simple as that ?! The forces it would endure are so light, and that switch would be operated so few times in his retirement now, might just do the trick...
Now what "glue" would be best for metal to metal, I don't know... super glue would probably do it I guess, parts are so small and light, but if there is something better, tailor made for metal, would rather prefer that...

Or yeah, spot weld the broken tab to the supporting strip, then spot weld the latter to what's left of the strip. This way I can spot weld away from the contacting element and therefore no risk of damaging it with heat.
Would have to be a precision spot welder then, with a fine tip... if anybody knows about these things as has a few links they could provide, I am all ears ! 

You would make an L-tab so you can solder a lap-joint. This is quick, easy, and more than strong enough for this purpose, and easily adjusted to exactly the correct position so it actuates correctly when the bat contacts it. No need for welding or any such misery. 

No need to worry about damaging the silver contact or taking the temper out of the spring-brass leaf either if soldering, unless you try to solder it with a freaking torch or grand-dad's prehistoric pistol-grip gun that likes to glow cherry-red.

KISS principle applies here, buddy.

mnem
*veteran of a thousand psychic wars Macgyver-fying sorties*

[mansaxel]

The South Queensferry (where  -hp- moved their UK operation from Bedford during the latter half of the 60s) history was posted here some weeks ago, and it indicates, IIRC, that the move from Bedford meant that some QA issues crept up. Not all skilled assembly staff elected to move north, and the trainees had some problems keeping up.

"Not all"? I suspect hardly any. Moving from Bedford in England (where the population is 1/5 Italian) to South Queensferry in Scotland (where the population is 1/5 lard) is a big ask. I'd be surprised if even 20% made the move. It's as far as Stockholm to Malmö, it would mean effectively cutting yourself off from all your friends and family except for special occasions.

According to the history posted here they did actually get some to come along, but I don't remember the numbers offhand.

[Vince]

Curvus Tracexus sounds more latin than greek ...
you may be able to 3d print the collar using elastic SLA resin.
I did not investigate and currently do not have time for that.

However I did get an SLA printer for low bucks, so I may be able to do so in the future.

Guys earlier said the part was made of rubber not plastic ?! So 3D printing is not an option it seems...
Plus, as I said I have a 531A donor scope I can probably steal that part from, assuming it's the same one... it's very possible it is the same part, as it's just a standard looking 5 inch CRT clamping arrangement. So I am hopeful....  I shall see that soon, but for now I am busy with something else, so I put the 575 aside to clear some bench space : I just received my JLCPB boards ! My first boards in 15 years, I am excited ! Just unpacked them, looks nice !

Very well packaged, bubble wrapped, vacuum sealed + a desiccant bag inside, wow...

They took 2 weeks to get to me, quite quick I am happy (that's what they advertised). Didn't get ransomed in France for taxes or customs duties or what not, I simply received it directly in my mail box. So either they missed my parcel and I got lucky, or the taxes I paid direct to JLCPCB at the check out, did please the French Authorities...

Board look nice. V-scored, quite satisfying to snap the boards !
The silk screen on one side is tiny but somehow it is pretty readable, didn't expect that much finesse for hobbyist boards I must say. Pleasantly surprised.

Overall I am very impressed with teh product and service I got for such a ridiculously low price ! I love modern times, best era for electronics hobbyists for sure ! 

Now need to hand solder those pesky SMD parts on there and see if the board works ! Hopefully I won't have to rework anything and I can use them for "production"...   They are tiny... 20x11mm , 45 per board/panel, 5 panels...225 boards for just a few Euros ! 
More than enough for 10 life times....

[Vince]

You would make an L-tab so you can solder a lap-joint. This is quick, easy, and more than strong enough for this purpose, and easily adjusted to exactly the correct position so it actuates correctly when the bat contacts it. No need for welding or any such misery. 

No need to worry about damaging the silver contact or taking the temper out of the spring-brass leaf either if soldering, unless you try to solder it with a freaking torch or grand-dad's prehistoric pistol-grip gun that likes to glow cherry-red.

KISS principle applies here, buddy.

mnem
*veteran of a thousand psychic wars Macgyver-fying sorties*

Oh OK, looks like I didn't get what you meant... now more confused than ever.. please draw me a sketch to illustrate the repair you envisage ! 

And do you mean you would just solder all the bit together with your regular electronics solder iron and solder ?!

[Vince]

I'm already making progress on the graphics! I found a nice source picture with a super-clean shot of all the text graphics for the panel. I'm working on the images you will need to make the stickers. This is just a first pass for you to examine but I think you will be able to do it this way. I looked at the area the panel fits to and I don't see much of a heat problem near it. Certainly the nuclear-powered fan in that thing will move enough air. Be back with results later today ...

 

Wow I didn't mean to get you to work for free ! 
Thanks in advance for whatever you might come up with  !

I am not sure about using multiple stickers though ? I assumed you initially meant just one big sticker the size of the pane and just trim it flush with the edges of the panel, with a sharp blade. This way you don't really notice  there is a sticker at all, it blends with the panel.
With multiple stickers I fear it might look like a bit of a patch work because you would see all the edges of the various small stickers.

Whatever, I can just print two copies of the sticker, full panel size. One I will leave in one piece, and then make another trial bvut this time by cutting the various bits individually with a sharp blade. Just need to experiment to see what works / looks best...

As for the photo of the panel... think I just found a nice one too !     I should have thought of it earlier, stupid me : just looked at the pics on Tek Wiki ! There are several shot of that panel, including one that's dead on.  Lots of texts, and only one graphical element, an arrow that points to the trimmer cap.
Picture resolution is not great, but good enough to read all the text without ambiguity and see what the font looks like.  It's all one colour, all red.
Pictures also shows the mounting hardware which is good as I had no reference for that either. Was thinking counter sunk screws, looks like I was wrong.

There is a hole in the center of the panel but I have no idea what it's there for ?! No indication about it on the printing, and tehre is no components or test point behind that hole.. it's just void behind there... weird.

You are right about heat.. it's in a rather "cold" part of the scope. All the tubes are on the left side of the scope. Panel is on the right. There are only two tubes there, I mean other than the CRT of course....

[Specmaster]

I know precisely how you feel, I hate hot weather for the same reason, if I have to do anything outside then late autumn (fall) and early spring is my best time of the year, always was even when I was a lanky streak of piss let alone now I've piled on the pounds.

Even as a kid I had a low tolerance to heat/humidity. I could never live in a tropical climate. I would melt to a puddle. 

Ditto, and do you know what? I even have a grey beard, brother. 

[mansaxel]

More scope cart.

The plywood is done. Next step is to trim the door to size then sand entire unit. Taking a break right now. It is beastly outside. Not really hot but relative humidity is a soggy 80%. I do not do well in high humidity. I'm soaked from sweating. 

It's been raining here, a lot (Not Schnee Eifel a lot, but I've had to pump overflow from the pool twice, which is unusual. ) and in the accompanying winds a rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) decided to part in my mother-in-laws garden. Went there with a saw, an ax, and the Middle Boy. The parted branch, about 12cm in diameter, was successfully removed from its threatening position suspended between the breakoff point and the house. Just came off that minor emergency, very sweaty. I don't do humid well, either.

[Zucca]

I am reading about indoor air quality lately:

• Temperature comfort
• Humidity comfort
• Filtration
• Fresh air circulation

Once you have addressed those 4 points you are good to go.
I also personally think that the humidity comfort is one of the most neglected one in homes nowadays.

[xrunner]

Wow I didn't mean to get you to work for free ! 
Thanks in advance for whatever you might come up with  !

No worries, it's fun to me. I got an even better picture to work from than the one you found. Yea it could be one large sticker - it will be your decision. Go play with your little boards and relax ...

 

[AVGresponding]

Well, two 3478A's went for ~£120 each today, had a cheeky £45 opening bid on one of them, but it wasn't to be... never mind, I have more than enough bench DMMs anyway...
 



Been trawling ebay for some decent verniers, and my conclusions are (a) there's a lot of garbage out there, (b) there's quite a few fake Mitutoyos out there, and (c) most of the good stuff is overpriced.

I'm reduced to making speculative purchases of (probably) fake Mitutoyos and hopeful bids on quality used ones.   

[Robert763]

I'm already making progress on the graphics! I found a nice source picture with a super-clean shot of all the text graphics for the panel. I'm working on the images you will need to make the stickers. This is just a first pass for you to examine but I think you will be able to do it this way. I looked at the area the panel fits to and I don't see much of a heat problem near it. Certainly the nuclear-powered fan in that thing will move enough air. Be back with results later today ...

 

Wow I didn't mean to get you to work for free ! 
Thanks in advance for whatever you might come up with  !

I am not sure about using multiple stickers though ? I assumed you initially meant just one big sticker the size of the pane and just trim it flush with the edges of the panel, with a sharp blade. This way you don't really notice  there is a sticker at all, it blends with the panel.
With multiple stickers I fear it might look like a bit of a patch work because you would see all the edges of the various small stickers.

Whatever, I can just print two copies of the sticker, full panel size. One I will leave in one piece, and then make another trial bvut this time by cutting the various bits individually with a sharp blade. Just need to experiment to see what works / looks best...

As for the photo of the panel... think I just found a nice one too !     I should have thought of it earlier, stupid me : just looked at the pics on Tek Wiki ! There are several shot of that panel, including one that's dead on.  Lots of texts, and only one graphical element, an arrow that points to the trimmer cap.
Picture resolution is not great, but good enough to read all the text without ambiguity and see what the font looks like.  It's all one colour, all red.
Pictures also shows the mounting hardware which is good as I had no reference for that either. Was thinking counter sunk screws, looks like I was wrong.

There is a hole in the center of the panel but I have no idea what it's there for ?! No indication about it on the printing, and tehre is no components or test point behind that hole.. it's just void behind there... weird.

You are right about heat.. it's in a rather "cold" part of the scope. All the tubes are on the left side of the scope. Panel is on the right. There are only two tubes there, I mean other than the CRT of course....

For that flat panel, to get a nice finish I would get it laser cut. No as expensive as you would think. In UK there are online sellers were you just enter a sketch and they quote and send you a finished panel. Some have pre-anodised stock to cut. I had a custom panel cut including supply of metal to reuse an old Schroff case and it was cheaper than I could buy a blank panel for.  For the printing I'd use the toner transfer paper intended for PCB esist applications. Print on to it with a laser printer (colour printer for red of course). Then just iron it on like a PCB resist. You might want to put clear spray varnish over the top. If you do make sure the first couple of coats are light or the toner will dissolve.

[dl6lr]

If you mean this one, it was me. It's been on my watch list a month or more including re-lists, and I just got fed up of looking at it.

Yeah, me too. I sent an offer but it ended without response from the seller.
Congrats!

Regards Bernd

[bd139]

Well, two 3478A's went for ~£120 each today, had a cheeky £45 opening bid on one of them, but it wasn't to be... never mind, I have more than enough bench DMMs anyway...
 



Been trawling ebay for some decent verniers, and my conclusions are (a) there's a lot of garbage out there, (b) there's quite a few fake Mitutoyos out there, and (c) most of the good stuff is overpriced.

I'm reduced to making speculative purchases of (probably) fake Mitutoyos and hopeful bids on quality used ones.   

Yeah I bid on one at £95. Didn’t want to go higher. Lost it 

[dl6lr]

There's a lot of interesting listings from Germany which I'll never be able to buy.

I find the listings from germany mostly overprized. And the eBay GSP is available to sellers from USA and UK only, AFAIK.

Regards, Bernd