Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Brumby]

Whatever the issue is it is being damn elusive. 

Which means Murphy is going to have you cussing at the something obvious the problem has been all along when you find it.

[mnementh]

So to support me in this I will pick up a windsurf board on the week end, along with a rather large sail (9.6 sqm) to get back on the water.

Very Nice !!! 

That is a rather large sail! 

The sail that I use most frequently is a 6.0 sqm from Pryde.  Good for most boards in most conditions.

Next commonly used one is 5.0 sqm from Pryde that I picked up used and came with the number "KC 2" ... the previous owner was obviously a much better sailor than I ever will be.  Good on the really windy days.

Very rarely do I use a 8.1 sqm from North Sails that I picked up used cheaply.  Only good on the long course board when there is almost no wind. I would never have bought such a large high-performance sail at a normal price.

My back just screams in agony thinking aboot my time as a youth trying to be a BMX/surf/skateboard junkie; good thing I moved up  to the relative safety of dirt-biking, stock car racing and and Baja/Dunebuggy-ing...

mnem

[mnementh]

This is America, everything is bigger over there. Houses too. 

I could be living in a Tesla Gigafactory and still only get permission for the smallest of rooms

McBryce.

This is America, everything is bigger over there. Houses too. 

Yep, judging by the YT videos of house fires over there, so are their fires, by the time the fire dept arrive at the scene, the fire is already massive because most houses are timber, and then once they arrive and manage to get the water going, they fluff about so much that the house is normally a goner anyway 

but but but .... timber burns slow compared to the vinyl siding, vinyl window frames, polystyrene insulation, plastic fibre carpets and laminate flooring ....

Either way, it is burn baby burn, there is no going back....

mnem
*do-er, not a teach-er*

[mnementh]

...Looks like I've been using a quite frankly incorrect ruler for the last 10 years. This might explain a few problems! 

Order top to bottom: New BH, Old BH, cheap chinese metal ruler. Another "quality British product". Needs to be a turd emoji on this forum.

Clearly you need a Granite surface plate and some gauge blocks and ...... Dip a toe in the water it wont hurt unless you drop the Granite on it 

I put my CR-10 up on a 24" paving stone to minimize judder artifacts. Izzat close enuf...? 

mnem
"ow... ow... ow dammit OWWWWW!!!"

[mnementh]

Saw a Fluke 8300A this weekend. While I was negotiating a price, someone paid full price for it. Ah, well.

Anyone from here grab it? It's got nice options.

Sorry, man.  It popped up in my search this morning, I looked and saw it was well optioned and jumped on it as they’re relatively rare and usually being being sold by people who want a couple of hundred bucks for one in unknown condition.  Have the manual that I bought a few years back when I’d bought one from the bay that the seller later cancelled because it "failed test" (it had been listed as 'for parts or repair'), and when I pointed that out and said I didn’t expect it to work was then told it had already been discarded.  I was pretty pissed about that.

-Pat

Hey, no problem. I'm happy you got it and not some dismantler, especially since it had all the requisite options. Of course, I look forward to learning more about it when you receive it. I'm especially curious if the round feet are original. It doesn't have a tilting bail, like many I've seen, but I'm not sure if that's original either. Since it has an IEC power socket, it seems to be a later version.

At least I can enjoy it vicariously here.

I’ll be sure to post pics of it.  The guy’s a quick shipper - FedEx has it in Kennesaw, GA already.  I’m not up on Fluke feet, but I guess will learn in a few days.

-Pat

If not, I may be able to help with something printed. Let us know.

mnem
 

[Specmaster]

Here's one for Saskia and the chemists among us, 

[mnementh]

Until you check them all agin' yer cheap Chinese digital calipers, you'll never know which is right... 

I had to dig out -- while on vacation, so selection is limited -- my rulers / measuring tape / not-cheap not-chinese calipers and compare them.

A Bundeswehr surplus steel ruler, a "Co-Tech" China steel ruler, the 6" ruler from a iFixit "Professional Toolkit", a vintage "Mako by Stålex" steel caliper, analog, a Hultafors measuring tape (EU Class II, so cheap) and a Hultafors EU Class III folding wooden meterstick were extracted from the toolcase.

The steel rulers and the caliper agree that the iFixit one is crap. I estimate it to be off by 0,4-0,6mm over 150mm. The others are impossible to gauge any diff by eye, so are deemed to be in agreement.  The measuring tape and the folding stick are off a bit less than the iFixit one, with the tape holding a slight edge to the stick. The stick, across one joint, is off by a guesstimated 0,3mm over 300mm against one of the good steel rulers. It being EU class III this is within the specifications. Not bad for a piecetwo pieces of wood. The tape is a advertising one, so not the full professional quality, only quite good. Tape is made in the UK! 

Conclusions?

No surprises. Steel rulers often are the best alternative if you can't measure with a caliper. I do not carry any plastic ones in my kit so can't compare with them. Tapes come in various qualities -- I've got a "Talmeter" at home, which is not a marketing product, so will try to remember checking it too. Somewhere I've got a Pentair / Schroff HE/TE steel tape, and also a Knürr one.

The iFixit one being crap is not surprising either. Tape and stick are for carpenters. Their desired precision "decade" is "one floor, one foot, one inch" so a basic error of 0,1% is not a problem for them. 

Measurement -- it's a rabbit hole lined with broken hopes, products and assumptions in so many ways.

The Westcott ruler's markings are etched deep enough that I can actually tactile-probe them with the points of my calipers. As this result is replicable to within a digit anywhere on the ruler, also similarly at 50mm and 100mm multiples, I feel pretty confident that the error seen is most likely due to process, not absolute accuracy of the ruler.

I did get rid of a half-dozen cheap printed rulers in both polycarbonate and stainless a few years ago after experiencing a similar revelation to bd's.

The PITA bit is that this type of ruler with square corners is no longer something you can just pick up at the local Five & Dime or hardware store; the race to the bottom in the USA, etc has mandated ones with these rounded edges seen on the cheapie to protect all the Ralph Wiggumses from themselves.

So to even get a ruler that can be used normally you have to order one from a machinist's supplier... Ifni save you if need something decent today.

mnem
 

[med6753]

OK, on +100V external supply. Reconnected the vertical amplifier. Brought up scope. All PSU voltages OK. Have trace but no vertical. At least some progress...maybe. Going to let it sit a while before troubleshooting the vertical. The external supply sez load is 313mA. That seems to be too low.

[khs]

This is America, everything is bigger over there. Houses too. 

I could be living in a Tesla Gigafactory and still only get permission for the smallest of rooms

McBryce.

This is America, everything is bigger over there. Houses too. 

Yep, judging by the YT videos of house fires over there, so are their fires, by the time the fire dept arrive at the scene, the fire is already massive because most houses are timber, and then once they arrive and manage to get the water going, they fluff about so much that the house is normally a goner anyway 

but but but .... timber burns slow compared to the vinyl siding, vinyl window frames, polystyrene insulation, plastic fibre carpets and laminate flooring ....

Either way, it is burn baby burn, there is no going back....

mnem
*do-er, not a teach-er*

Here is the matching ebay offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/363334238576?_trkparms=aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233198%26meid%3D3e57d79c0e804180a69b3371e0149838%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D363334121714%26itm%3D363334238576%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2WithMLRv3&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A3633342385763e57d79c0e804180a69b3371e0149838%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAABACtrZQ7uyU6NyRWMuc0OogoSa%252FUIDys%252F02w7jR10vOAtl7xEBAvYL521UWqVn0%252FUgbgthT4%252BUmn52otoF%252FDXX3o9lXHlgoytPkYYo958OLgHMeo5eQINz%252F4pREEW1G1ItMkTmbo8ewqr31boNjhU0HERRgZoEXzfKNTZ3i45vWWAXGX94JD5V2QhZLTUvk3iYiM1tGSgR3SzEwnb6UWkv8F%252FBuSZcfOMch9H%252FkueRLcd0aa0o%252FVyv4lasZv0vRJboZT%252FShTO%252FgjzJ3ucNac1vSKJY9YB9OJYbJlKX1E7BO9G2O%252FIB88VMZkGgca7bBA9JAPyT01FM149SeOKS1pEVXk%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

[dl6lr]

Here is the matching ebay offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/363334238576?_trkparms=aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233198%26meid%3D3e57d79c0e804180a69b3371e0149838%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D363334121714%26itm%3D363334238576%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2WithMLRv3&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A3633342385763e57d79c0e804180a69b3371e0149838%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAABACtrZQ7uyU6NyRWMuc0OogoSa%252FUIDys%252F02w7jR10vOAtl7xEBAvYL521UWqVn0%252FUgbgthT4%252BUmn52otoF%252FDXX3o9lXHlgoytPkYYo958OLgHMeo5eQINz%252F4pREEW1G1ItMkTmbo8ewqr31boNjhU0HERRgZoEXzfKNTZ3i45vWWAXGX94JD5V2QhZLTUvk3iYiM1tGSgR3SzEwnb6UWkv8F%252FBuSZcfOMch9H%252FkueRLcd0aa0o%252FVyv4lasZv0vRJboZT%252FShTO%252FgjzJ3ucNac1vSKJY9YB9OJYbJlKX1E7BO9G2O%252FIB88VMZkGgca7bBA9JAPyT01FM149SeOKS1pEVXk%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

They will ship it to Germany for €53,08. I wonder how they will manage that.

[Cerebus]

Has anybody got any experience of Molex "Nano-Fit" connectors? They're the baby 2.5 mm pitch version of the classic Molex "Mini-Fit" that we all know as a PC motherboard power connector. (The ranges go: Mini, Mini Jr, Micro and Nano.)

I'm thinking of using them as the power and ancillary connectors for the GPSDO PCB - a step up from crappy 0.1" DuPont style (and more compact) and tougher than JST-whatevers. Anybody got anything good, or bad, to say about them?

I have. We used it on an extension board for one of our small control devices, see attachment.

It's shitty. Crimp is delicate, locking mechanism weakish and unlocking the pins tends to damage the holding spring.

If you have a choice, go for something else.

Well, that's depressing. Sounds like it might be back to the drawing board.

The problem with wire to board connectors is that starting from a blank page the choice is huge, and it's very difficult to judge these things from photos, drawings and datasheets.

I want something that is reasonably compact that doesn't take up too much board area, is good for roughly an amp of power @ 6-12V or LVCMOS digital signals. Needs to be something that can be bought in small quantities at a reasonable price, which constrains the search space somewhat. Anyone got suggestions?

If no-one has any bright ideas I might just either chance my arm with the Nano-Fits or stick to the tried and tested but, around here anyway, unloved JST-XH.

SWMBO-II has just come in and demanded that I come and check how full her bowl is before she undertakes a proper survey of her new box with warning labels.

How about some Phoenix connectors?
Mine are a bit clunky, but there are smaller ones.

From my switch (switching between two soldering irons, JBC T245 <--> T470)



Edit:

another example:


Source:
https://www.ee.co.za/article/phoenix-168-03-connectors-offer-high-performance-in-a-minimum-amount-of-space.html

You're pulling my leg, aren't you?

With the dimensions of the small PC 4 HV connector and the high performance data of the PC 5 connector, the new connectors are said to combine the advantages of both product families. Currents up to 41 A and conductors up to 10 mm² can be wired up in an even smaller space, therefore allowing a more compact equipment design.

I want something that is reasonably compact that doesn't take up too much board area, is good for roughly an amp of power @ 6-12V or LVCMOS digital signals.

The ten way version of the PC5 is almost half as big as my entire board. That is a compact connector, if you're doing railway engineering! 

[cyclin_al]

So to support me in this I will pick up a windsurf board on the week end, along with a rather large sail (9.6 sqm) to get back on the water.

Very Nice !!! 

That is a rather large sail! 

The sail that I use most frequently is a 6.0 sqm from Pryde.  Good for most boards in most conditions.

Next commonly used one is 5.0 sqm from Pryde that I picked up used and came with the number "KC 2" ... the previous owner was obviously a much better sailor than I ever will be.  Good on the really windy days.

Very rarely do I use a 8.1 sqm from North Sails that I picked up used cheaply.  Only good on the long course board when there is almost no wind. I would never have bought such a large high-performance sail at a normal price.

Boring get into Kitesurfing  No need to wait for it to really blow for the fun to begin just go up in kite size. I still have a 21sqm Kite kicking around but these days with the more modern designs 15 and down is all that's needed.

Locally most of the diehard old school windsurfers have seen the light enabled in part by me in an earlier mid life crisis

You sound like a much older buddy of mine.  He is retired and has some coin to follow these activities.  He is pushing everyone to get hydrofoil boards & kites.  It seems "foiling" is the latest sailing fad.

For now, I have to stick to my priorities, which are house repairs and TEA.  Plus, I need to spend time working to pay for it all...

[bd139]

Has anybody got any experience of Molex "Nano-Fit" connectors? They're the baby 2.5 mm pitch version of the classic Molex "Mini-Fit" that we all know as a PC motherboard power connector. (The ranges go: Mini, Mini Jr, Micro and Nano.)

I'm thinking of using them as the power and ancillary connectors for the GPSDO PCB - a step up from crappy 0.1" DuPont style (and more compact) and tougher than JST-whatevers. Anybody got anything good, or bad, to say about them?

I have. We used it on an extension board for one of our small control devices, see attachment.

It's shitty. Crimp is delicate, locking mechanism weakish and unlocking the pins tends to damage the holding spring.

If you have a choice, go for something else.

Well, that's depressing. Sounds like it might be back to the drawing board.

The problem with wire to board connectors is that starting from a blank page the choice is huge, and it's very difficult to judge these things from photos, drawings and datasheets.

I want something that is reasonably compact that doesn't take up too much board area, is good for roughly an amp of power @ 6-12V or LVCMOS digital signals. Needs to be something that can be bought in small quantities at a reasonable price, which constrains the search space somewhat. Anyone got suggestions?

If no-one has any bright ideas I might just either chance my arm with the Nano-Fits or stick to the tried and tested but, around here anyway, unloved JST-XH.

SWMBO-II has just come in and demanded that I come and check how full her bowl is before she undertakes a proper survey of her new box with warning labels.

How about some Phoenix connectors?
Mine are a bit clunky, but there are smaller ones.

From my switch (switching between two soldering irons, JBC T245 <--> T470)



Edit:

another example:


Source:
https://www.ee.co.za/article/phoenix-168-03-connectors-offer-high-performance-in-a-minimum-amount-of-space.html

You're pulling my leg, aren't you?

With the dimensions of the small PC 4 HV connector and the high performance data of the PC 5 connector, the new connectors are said to combine the advantages of both product families. Currents up to 41 A and conductors up to 10 mm² can be wired up in an even smaller space, therefore allowing a more compact equipment design.

I want something that is reasonably compact that doesn't take up too much board area, is good for roughly an amp of power @ 6-12V or LVCMOS digital signals.

The ten way version of the PC5 is almost half as big as my entire board. That is a compact connector, if you're doing railway engineering! 

Have a look at the stuff S53MV has done for tips. Dirt cheap and reliable option:

http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/vnr/assembly.html

http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/zifssb/lscband.html

Basically use turned pin header sockets on the board and then turned pin double ended headers as plugs. Then wire them up with ribbon cable.

[cyclin_al]

These recent few additions to the marking out kit are surprisingly accurate. I ran the calipers over them and tested against some blocks  The bit where they fail slightly in in the 90 degree guide bit but check it against a known square if you need to. I am considering taking the long one off the edge guide and just using it as a ruler and using a square against it if needed.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000338734447.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19574c4dWOUKXs

Once again, bean is a successful enabler.  Ordered....

This reminds me that I need stair gauges for my framing square, the one thing this ali store does not seem to have.  One of my house repairs is to replace the stairs for the main entry door.  It is at the point where it can no longer wait till next year ... sigh 

[med6753]

Well I got some answers, and it isn't good. The Vertical Output transistors are blown again. Why I have no clue. And that would explain the +100V smoking. It just so happens I have another set on order as backup. But I'm also going to replace some surrounding active components as well. So off to Mouser ordering some more parts. This 547 is turning into a money pit but I am not about to give up. 

It looks like I can safely repair the internal +100V supply and test it.

[Cerebus]

Have a look at the stuff S53MV has done for tips. Dirt cheap and reliable option:

http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/vnr/assembly.html

http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/zifssb/lscband.html

Basically use turned pin header sockets on the board and then turned pin double ended headers as plugs. Then wire them up with ribbon cable.

Erm, no. That's a very definite "Pass!" from me.

[bd139]

He makes stuff that goes into space for a living and understands the design trade off on hobby vs not hobby.

Hermes just delivered me some transistors. 2n3053 x100. Fairchild branded. Never run out of them again 

I rather like canned transistors 

[AVGresponding]

AVG, your reply seems to have gone missing. I only see the quoted bits.

Yeah I was in a rush to get ready for work this morning. I didn't notice I'd clicked the img button instead of the bold button...

[khs]

Well I got some answers, and it isn't good. The Vertical Output transistors are blown again. Why I have no clue. And that would explain the +100V smoking. It just so happens I have another set on order as backup. But I'm also going to replace some surrounding active components as well. So off to Mouser ordering some more parts. This 547 is turning into a money pit but I am not about to give up. 

It looks like I can safely repair the internal +100V supply and test it.

You may take a look at the reference bulb OG03.
These old bulbs may have an ignition delay, so you may check the -150V during power up.. 

[Cerebus]

He makes stuff that goes into space for a living and understands the design trade off on hobby vs not hobby.

He may well do, but I sincerely hope he has a technician to do his soldering for him. 

But more seriously, if I was up for "bodge it with turned pins with ribbon cable soldered to it" I wouldn't have asked for folks experience's with a particular latched, crimped connector I'd have just gone ahead and done it with ribbon cable and turned pin and socket strips - I even have all three in stock. My own experience of make-dos like that is that they are anything but reliable. In fact back when I was originally playing with the GPS receiver I'm using I had flying wires soldered directly to the hard metric board to board socket that it uses - I've lost count of the number of times that "wire broken off socket stopped play" happened. It was at least three, and this was just "try and talk to the thing", not a production version.

I don't wish to sound churlish, I hope that it's fairly obvious that I'm looking for something a bit neater and more reliable. Actually I'd rather solder individual wires direct into the board than rely on ribbon cable flapping about on connectors that aren't designed for wire-to-board use. I do use turned pin socket strips for board-to-board connections, but that's what they are designed for. On something that's probably going to run to a "rev B" I want the main board to be swappable in a fairly modular fashion. The PSU, hardware, LCD and indicators, and coax connectors ought to work flawlessly first time. If I do need a "rev B' I don't want to have to desolder all of them from the main board just to swap it. Especially if I want to do some closed case runs with "rev B" and "rev A" in relatively rapid succession.

I could have gone with classic ribbon cable on 2 row 0.1" IDC plugs, shrouded sockets and transition connectors but they're a bit bulky and use up a lot of board space outside of the contact area, I'd have struggled to get them to all to fit on the board and keep the routing anything like the way I wanted it - it's already too messy for my taste. I'm heavily constrained by the keep out area necessitated by the GPS module, the bulk of the OCXO and the need to get 4 coaxial signals off the board as well. Hopefully by the time I'm finished I won't have contaminated every signal on the board with the 10MHz OCXO clock, and the 12.7 MHz odd clock the GPS module uses.

Despite Cymaphore's reservations about the Nano-Fits I think I'll give them a try. They're reasonably cheap (the headers are in the 80p - £1.50 range for the sizes I need), reasonably skookum and a better fit for what I'm doing and how I'm trying to do it than anyone else has suggested.

[mnementh]

Desoldering station arrived already. Haven't powered it up yet but seems fairly good for the money. The only complaint so far is it's really easy to knock the gun off the stand. May need to find a suitable mod for it to make that less of an issue.

What I do with mine is push the gun all the way back in the holder, under the retaining ring, then I have the whole unit right at the back of my bench and to one side, so that the cable and vacuum tube hang down the side of the bench and not on it, job done. Never yet managed to knock it out of its holder when its on, oh and of course, I only have it on when I'm just about to use it, so if it does get knocked out, its not hot. Hope that helps.

So, exactly like with your batshit crazy redheads then... it's just as much aboot the angle of the dangle as the fun in your gun. 

mnem
 

[med6753]

More detail on what I found today. See schematic.

Q1114 and Q1134 are blown again. Why I don't know. I have a matched pair on order which should arrive Saturday. But I'm just not gonna stick them in and say a few prayers. It turns out this S/N does have Q1109, D1114, and D1109. I checked Q1109 and it appears good. I have it in stock so it's going to be replaced. Same with D1114. D1109 is a 1N3045B zener which I don't have. NTE151A replaces it and it's on order. I hate shotgunning parts but I don't see any reason why those output transistors blew again. Tautech, you might be right about replacing those parts after all.

[med6753]

Well I got some answers, and it isn't good. The Vertical Output transistors are blown again. Why I have no clue. And that would explain the +100V smoking. It just so happens I have another set on order as backup. But I'm also going to replace some surrounding active components as well. So off to Mouser ordering some more parts. This 547 is turning into a money pit but I am not about to give up. 

It looks like I can safely repair the internal +100V supply and test it.

You may take a look at the reference bulb OG03.
These old bulbs may have an ignition delay, so you may check the -150V during power up..

The OG3 has already been replaced back when I first started this saga. And while the -150V is the reference for all the PSU voltages it needs a "kick" from the +100V in order to come up and stabilize. If the +100V does not come up neither does the -150V.

[bd139]

He makes stuff that goes into space for a living and understands the design trade off on hobby vs not hobby.

He may well do, but I sincerely hope he has a technician to do his soldering for him. 

But more seriously, if I was up for "bodge it with turned pins with ribbon cable soldered to it" I wouldn't have asked for folks experience's with a particular latched, crimped connector I'd have just gone ahead and done it with ribbon cable and turned pin and socket strips - I even have all three in stock. My own experience of make-dos like that is that they are anything but reliable. In fact back when I was originally playing with the GPS receiver I'm using I had flying wires soldered directly to the hard metric board to board socket that it uses - I've lost count of the number of times that "wire broken off socket stopped play" happened. It was at least three, and this was just "try and talk to the thing", not a production version.

I don't wish to sound churlish, I hope that it's fairly obvious that I'm looking for something a bit neater and more reliable. Actually I'd rather solder individual wires direct into the board than rely on ribbon cable flapping about on connectors that aren't designed for wire-to-board use. I do use turned pin socket strips for board-to-board connections, but that's what they are designed for. On something that's probably going to run to a "rev B" I want the main board to be swappable in a fairly modular fashion. The PSU, hardware, LCD and indicators, and coax connectors ought to work flawlessly first time. If I do need a "rev B' I don't want to have to desolder all of them from the main board just to swap it. Especially if I want to do some closed case runs with "rev B" and "rev A" in relatively rapid succession.

I could have gone with classic ribbon cable on 2 row 0.1" IDC plugs, shrouded sockets and transition connectors but they're a bit bulky and use up a lot of board space outside of the contact area, I'd have struggled to get them to all to fit on the board and keep the routing anything like the way I wanted it - it's already too messy for my taste. I'm heavily constrained by the keep out area necessitated by the GPS module, the bulk of the OCXO and the need to get 4 coaxial signals off the board as well. Hopefully by the time I'm finished I won't have contaminated every signal on the board with the 10MHz OCXO clock, and the 12.7 MHz odd clock the GPS module uses.

Despite Cymaphore's reservations about the Nano-Fits I think I'll give them a try. They're reasonably cheap (the headers are in the 80p - £1.50 range for the sizes I need), reasonably skookum and a better fit for what I'm doing and how I'm trying to do it than anyone else has suggested.

Fair enough. You want D subs for external connections and soldered only cup pins on board as mentioned earlier with the looms strapped down then. You can have reliable and permanent but not reliable and not permanent.

[mnementh]

   On the other side of the coin. Incorrect hp feet because we know they all get lost in a black hole. (Self adhesive felt feet 3/4 inch diameter. Work well)   

   I like these old school massive rubber feets. Screw through one of the existing holes, washer and nut inside. No gunk, no damage of original case.   

      https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GTD2JXP/

I'm likely to use either depending on what I have; tho I try to keep a sheet or two of these on hand at all times. The large base and adhesive they use rarely does that "gets all squidgy until it fucking falls off" thing, and they're tall enough to make sure you have adequate ventilation between stacked items that they don't cook each other to death. I often put them on stuff that already has feet just to get extra and/or uniform spacing between pieces.

Another thing I will do is mix them on heavy items or gear with a large footprint which are directly on the bench. I'll put the felt furniture pads (usually one or two extra, and sometimes doubled up for extra thickness as they do compress a fair bit) along the back edge, then the rubber ones along the front. That way when it's lying on the bench it stays put... but if I need to slide it a bit or pull it out to get to the back, I can just lift on the front edge and it glides on the felt pads.

mnem
*~ TEA LifeHack #357 ~*