Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

Random Tool pr0n: Vintage Makita Cordless Ratchet

Picked this up today while I was thrifting for cheap storage bins. Got a yuuuuge Roughneck Tote too...

Dunno if I'll ever find the square drive slug that fits this; I suppose worst-case I can always save for when I need to ratchet a 21mm-13/16" bolt... 

mnem
*witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett...*

[tautech]

Random Tool pr0n: Vintage Makita Cordless Ratchet

Picked this up today while I was thrifting for cheap storage bins. Got a yuuuuge Roughneck Tote too...

Dunno if I'll ever find the square drive slug that fits this; I suppose worst-case I can always save for when I need to ratchet a 21mm-13/16" bolt... 

mnem
*witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett...*

You don't have a file ? 

Coulda used that the day before yesterday to access the dry sump drain on the 4 wheel horse but instead had to walk down sheds to get ring spanners as horse don't like running when MT of oil.

[beanflying]

Progress with the Brasso on the meter screen, it is slow work, but the results are there for all to see. Some marks on the screen are really deep, and I was wondering if using a dremmel with Brasso would be detrimental to it, i.e., would it result in the screen itself getting burnishing marks and swirls visible on the plastic or not?

Before                                                  Current                                             
snip

Heat is your enemy to polishing plastics so I would avoid mechanical multi thousand rpm pads in case you get a melt line instead of a polish line. Dremels or rotary devices with cloth pads and rouge/polish are however awesome for metals 

Brasso is actually fairly aggressive too so even look at Silvo for your final buff or add a small assortment of jewelers rouges to your kit at some stage.

[med6753]

But seriously... fuck that noize. For that and all the reasons Linus said in that video we shared a few days ago. 

Well you really picked a thing to fight there TBH. I would have left the bloody thing on the street  . Debian is really easy if you have plain old PC at hand. I did have to futz with the power management on this so it'd still stay awake when I closed the lid though.

So random project. I am working on a GPS tracker for taking out hiking. This is a complete replacement for the usual shit that's out there. It's a chuck it in your bag and forget it device. Well it would be but like hell I can get hold of the proposed target uC any more, which was a Raspberry Pi Zero W. They have disappeared off the face of the planet. Thus does anyone know an SBC or module that does the following:

1. Must run Linux. I don't want to fuck around with RTOS and low level stuff.
2. Needs Wifi as I want to get the files off without cables or SD card fluffing around.
3. Really low power. Under 100mA idle. Burst is fine. Will be hanging off a small LiPo and needs to last 18 hours approx.

I agree. A 10 year old Xeon server/workstation repackaged as a prosumer PC (previous owner was a video content creator, so yeah, lots of BW) is hardly a great test mule... but fuck. If you can't make a installer that works with a dual-Xeon machine that Windoze will install on out of the box, WTF are you doing? I shouldn't need to sit down with a checklist and a 6-pack of Vodka bombs and figure out which jigsaw puzzle bits I need to recompile every fucking install FFS. 

As to your problem:

Are these not what you're looking for? Did you try DigiKey UK...?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000693620101.html

https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/pi-supply/PIS-0900/1910-1103-ND/9522075

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en?keywords=KIT-14298

mnem
 

Gee, I'm installing Ubuntu 20.04 LTS on an old Dell laptop with a dead battery (new one on order) as I write this and it's going along just fine. I dunno what your problem is pal. 

It's the Lady Cop's laptop that she loaned to her grand daughter for about 2 years. She finally got a school issued Mac so now I've got it to wipe W7 clean and make it a Linux box. Going to Win10 is just too much of a hassle and she really just surfs the web with Firefox so Ubuntu is a perfect fit. And less maintenance and hassle for me. 

We were talking aboot Debian, not Ubuntu. Any caveman can install Ubuntu on a Dell... they're a perfect match.

mnem
 

[cyclin_al]

Oof! Those disembodied tab buttons. What a horrendous UI "improvement". Just when I thought "modern" UIs couldn't get any worse.

Good, so it is not just me.  The latest firefox update really took it downhill 

[Brumby]

Agreed.  I'm just fearful the dive hasn't leveled out yet.

[Brumby]

On the subject of TEA, I took a shot at a nice looking HP 5334B counter over the weekend, but only succeeded in being the second highest bidder.

I'm disappointed I don't have it in my collection, but I aimed higher than I could really justify, so I'm not overly bummed - which is why my wallet is breathing easier.

[Saskia]

A dive without leveling out usually ends in a crash.

[Brumby]

There's always more room for more white space!




For the record - I  HATE  THAT  WITH  A  VENGEANCE!

[cyclin_al]

Random Tool pr0n: Vintage Makita Cordless Ratchet

Picked this up today while I was thrifting for cheap storage bins. Got a yuuuuge Roughneck Tote too...

Dunno if I'll ever find the square drive slug that fits this; I suppose worst-case I can always save for when I need to ratchet a 21mm-13/16" bolt... 

mnem
*witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett-witchett-watchett...*

The 3/8" adapter is part MK-785404-4.

I have never seen this website before, but they list it:
https://www.partswarehouse.com/Makita-3-8-Socket-Adaptor-6912D-MK-785404-4-p/mk-785404-4.htm

[AVGresponding]

Thanks for mentioning that.  I was using a bigger than typical hammer drill (120V, 6A).  It is not a SDS+ (I had to google the difference).  We have an even bigger Makita that is at SWMBO brother's house; will check this afternoon if that one is SDS+; it could be big enough to be SDS-MAX.  If not, then I have an excuse to go shopping.  Maybe not, $500+CAD is pretty steep for occasional use.  Oh wait, that sounds like TEA 
Update:  I can get a single-battery SDS+ drill reburbished from Makita Canada for $205CAD; only an hour drive away (but close to my office).

No chance of finding that sort of thing in a thrift shop.  I suspect certain individuals find good deals where there are affluent neighbourhoods.  Those neighbourhoods do not appear to be near here.  Also, affluence like that means they can afford to hire someone, rather than buying such a tool.  Around here in rural areas, you keep everything ... just in case.

I am absolutely certain there is no rebar.  I poured the cement myself.  It is a 8" tube footing which does not need that level of reinforcement.
From what I just read on SDS, that has a much greater chance of breaking through as you suggested, at least compared to a regular hammer drill.
I will try the sticky stick idea; if it works it will certainly make things easier.

Thanks!

EDIT:  just picked up the bigger Makita and is completely unsuited for this purpose.  It has a significant gear reduction so is meant for drilling steel, augers and mixing.  Also, there is no hammering functionality.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get some chain store own brand unit for CAN$150 or less; there's no need for heavier duty pro/pro-sumer stuff if you're only going to be using it occasionally.

For work I use a DeWalt brushless, had it 6 years or so now. That's firmly in the pro-sumer bracket.
At home I have a very battered old Bosch 24V which is at least 15 years old, with a missing selector (so only hammer drills, can't hammer or drill individually any more) but is pro grade and so will batter its way through most things. When I was still using it at work I once drilled a 1m deep 25mm diameter hole through an old stone wall... took a while mind you!

[med6753]

The thing that gripes me most is the insistence upon running indirectly heated tube heaters off DC, "to reduce hum".
Back in the day when we could buy real, new ex factory tubes, not  repackaged "pulls", such shenanigans were unheard of except in the most exotic applications.

Guess what the number 1 reason for tube replacement, & factory rejection was back in the day?
Heater/cathode leakage!!   

Some "sharpies" seem to have discovered a treasure trove of replaced/rejected tubes (landfill mining?) & placed them on the market at premium prices!

The filaments in Tek vertical plug-in's are DCV. Some other select circuits too but most of the mainframe is ACV filaments.   

In point-to-point wiring proper filament lead dress and twisted pair of the filament wiring is usually all that's needed to prevent hum.

[Robert763]

OK, just thought there may be a quicker route 

I must say that this a big bastard meter, thought the Brymen was big, but this is about 10 mm taller and the display has 3 digital displays and an analogue barograph as well. The temperature probe and PC parts have not been out of their wrappers, still all sealed up.

Will you be making your new server Windows 11 compatible then  From where I'm looking, it's a bloody dog's breakfast which is going to make almost every man and his dog needing new hardware, certainly hope you're right about them having to alter that before 2025, bastards.

Last year I picked up a mini felt polishing mop, about 75mm dia and two bars of polish, coarse and fine, from Lidl. It works really well at removing scratches from plastic instrument windows.   

[Robert763]

Thanks for mentioning that.  I was using a bigger than typical hammer drill (120V, 6A).  It is not a SDS+ (I had to google the difference).  We have an even bigger Makita that is at SWMBO brother's house; will check this afternoon if that one is SDS+; it could be big enough to be SDS-MAX.  If not, then I have an excuse to go shopping.  Maybe not, $500+CAD is pretty steep for occasional use.  Oh wait, that sounds like TEA 
Update:  I can get a single-battery SDS+ drill reburbished from Makita Canada for $205CAD; only an hour drive away (but close to my office).

No chance of finding that sort of thing in a thrift shop.  I suspect certain individuals find good deals where there are affluent neighbourhoods.  Those neighbourhoods do not appear to be near here.  Also, affluence like that means they can afford to hire someone, rather than buying such a tool.  Around here in rural areas, you keep everything ... just in case.

I am absolutely certain there is no rebar.  I poured the cement myself.  It is a 8" tube footing which does not need that level of reinforcement.
From what I just read on SDS, that has a much greater chance of breaking through as you suggested, at least compared to a regular hammer drill.
I will try the sticky stick idea; if it works it will certainly make things easier.

Thanks!

EDIT:  just picked up the bigger Makita and is completely unsuited for this purpose.  It has a significant gear reduction so is meant for drilling steel, augers and mixing.  Also, there is no hammering functionality.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get some chain store own brand unit for CAN$150 or less; there's no need for heavier duty pro/pro-sumer stuff if you're only going to be using it occasionally.

For work I use a DeWalt brushless, had it 6 years or so now. That's firmly in the pro-sumer bracket.
At home I have a very battered old Bosch 24V which is at least 15 years old, with a missing selector (so only hammer drills, can't hammer or drill individually any more) but is pro grade and so will batter its way through most things. When I was still using it at work I once drilled a 1m deep 25mm diameter hole through an old stone wall... took a while mind you!

Indeed, some years ago I needed to knock a 20mm hole through two layers of tough brick. Having just bought a plain shank long drill at some expense from B&Q I was walking back to the car past Argos and a light bulb came on. They had a own brand "Challenge" SDS hammer drill / chisel with a collection of drills including the one I needed for less than the single drill from B&Q. It even had a SDS chuck for plain shanks. I dropped an order and by the time I'd got back from returning the bit to B&Q for a refund it was ready to collect.
'd expected it to last a couple of 20mm holes but several years and lots of work, including several 4" core drillings (NOT recommended as it does not have a clutch and if it locks up it can break an arm or throw you off a ladder) later it is still going strong.

[bd139]

The thing that gripes me most is the insistence upon running indirectly heated tube heaters off DC, "to reduce hum".
Back in the day when we could buy real, new ex factory tubes, not  repackaged "pulls", such shenanigans were unheard of except in the most exotic applications.

Guess what the number 1 reason for tube replacement, & factory rejection was back in the day?
Heater/cathode leakage!!   

Some "sharpies" seem to have discovered a treasure trove of replaced/rejected tubes (landfill mining?) & placed them on the market at premium prices!

The filaments in Tek vertical plug-in's are DCV. Some other select circuits too but most of the mainframe is ACV filaments.   

In point-to-point wiring proper filament lead dress and twisted pair of the filament wiring is usually all that's needed to prevent hum.

Tek use DC for all the sensitive (read mV) circuit filaments. There are opportunities for AC noise (hum) to make it into the DC signal path via the heater to cathode capacitance if you don't use DC. This applies to things like preamps, instrumentation amps etc. Twisting the filament wires and careful routing stops only the side effects from the cable routing, not the slightly less than ideal tube characteristics themselves.

Reason number 15 of "why the hell I'm not using tubes for anything" 

[Specmaster]

Oof! Those disembodied tab buttons. What a horrendous UI "improvement". Just when I thought "modern" UIs couldn't get any worse.

Yes, it does look like they turned a 5 year old loose with a crayon. But don't care....if she's happy then I'm happy. 

You can customise the appearance of Firefox and those buttons in the centre along with the photo tiles etc can be removed.

[Specmaster]

Guys, thanks for all your helpful tips on how to deal with that horrible screen on the Extech, they helped a lot. I think you'll agree that now the screen is once again useable. There are still some scratches in places but for now I'm happy, it certainly is as good as most of other meters that have plastic screens.

I might occasionally, when I have nothing better to do, continue with the polishing to reduce their effect on the readability of the display. Next time, though, I will remember to mask off the bumper to reduce the wearing away of that 

Now its time to take it apart and look inside, photos to follow later.

[nixiefreqq]

Guys, thanks for all your helpful tips on how to deal with that horrible screen on the Extech, they helped a lot. I think you'll agree that now the screen is once again useable. There are still some scratches in places but for now I'm happy, it certainly is as good as most of other meters that have plastic screens.

I might occasionally, when I have nothing better to do, continue with the polishing to reduce their effect on the readability of the display. Next time, though, I will remember to mask off the bumper to reduce the wearing away of that 

Now its time to take it apart and look inside, photos to follow later.

looks fantastic!

lots of suggestions were made.........what did you find worked best?

(my 27fm could use a little work too)

[med6753]

Agreed, looks damn good! 

[Brumby]

   Looks a heck of a lot better!


Glad you didn't go down the power tool path.  That would have been a high melting risk.

[Specmaster]

Guys, thanks for all your helpful tips on how to deal with that horrible screen on the Extech, they helped a lot. I think you'll agree that now the screen is once again useable. There are still some scratches in places but for now I'm happy, it certainly is as good as most of other meters that have plastic screens.

I might occasionally, when I have nothing better to do, continue with the polishing to reduce their effect on the readability of the display. Next time, though, I will remember to mask off the bumper to reduce the wearing away of that 

Now its time to take it apart and look inside, photos to follow later.

looks fantastic!

lots of suggestions were made.........what did you find worked best?

(my 27fm could use a little work too)

All I used in the end was what I had in the cupboard, Brasso AKA Duraglit. I must admit that I first saw the screen in the seller's photos, I thought that it had the screen protector still on it, and it was that which had taken the knocks. 

When I actually picked it up and discovered the extent of the damage, it did take away some elation of the win, but now, I'm very pleased, and I think I got a real steal here now.

[Zucca]

I am alive.

Very busy with the relocation and the 8 weeks old son (right now with digital output: 1 cry or 0 sleep).

Can't wait to post you guys pics of my new lab (4x time bigger than the Deutsch one).

Back to madness now. I miss you all and some sane TEA.

[Kosmic]

I am alive.

Very busy with the relocation and the 8 weeks old son (right now with digital output: 1 cry or 0 sleep).

Can't wait to post you guys pics of my new lab (4x time bigger than the Deutsch one).

Back to madness now. I miss you all and some sane TEA.

Congrats for the kid 

[AVGresponding]

Indeed, some years ago I needed to knock a 20mm hole through two layers of tough brick. Having just bought a plain shank long drill at some expense from B&Q I was walking back to the car past Argos and a light bulb came on. They had a own brand "Challenge" SDS hammer drill / chisel with a collection of drills including the one I needed for less than the single drill from B&Q. It even had a SDS chuck for plain shanks. I dropped an order and by the time I'd got back from returning the bit to B&Q for a refund it was ready to collect.
'd expected it to last a couple of 20mm holes but several years and lots of work, including several 4" core drillings (NOT recommended as it does not have a clutch and if it locks up it can break an arm or throw you off a ladder) later it is still going strong.

The 110V dedicated core drills we use don't have clutches, you're just expected to have arms bigger than pipe-cleaners or limp noodles. Lubrication helps a lot in reducing grabbing, so obviously no-one bothers to use it except me (or any apprentice I might be supervising). The major frustration for me is people losing the splitting wedges out of the bit cases, making the occurrance of a broken pilot bit into more than a nuisance.

Heat is your enemy to polishing plastics so I would avoid mechanical multi thousand rpm pads in case you get a melt line instead of a polish line. Dremels or rotary devices with cloth pads and rouge/polish are however awesome for metals 

Brasso is actually fairly aggressive too so even look at Silvo for your final buff or add a small assortment of jewelers rouges to your kit at some stage.

You can use mechanical assistance for plastics, but as you say, heat is bad, so low surface speeds are essential, with cooling and lubrication highly desirable.

[Andrew_Debbie]

All done. 

I have a stack  of  12-14 year old  MacPros running Ubuntu.   They all have dual 4-core Xeon CPUs and most of them have at least 8GB of RAM.


Two are on my desk at work.    About the only thing that fails are the drives, but they are easy to replace.    A few of them had the graphics card fail.  One of the techs here has a reflow toaster at home.  He 'baked' the cards for me and 2 out of 3 came back to life. 

The newest and the best is a 2010   5,1  we use as a PACS (Picture Archive and Communication System) server.     SSD boot drive on a PCI card and 4 4TB server class drives in the bays in RAID 10.  Everything else is the original parts.  The thing is a tank.


I use the second one as a sand box. 

I  keep a third one on the floor next to my desk as a backup.  Configured and  ready to drop in if our either of our other servers go down.