@mnem dwagon We finally got the electronic toys out for a first bash. Sometime post-birthday we finally got both dry weather and free time on Canada Day.
Very happy with the toys chosen SWMBO wants one now too...
However, I found some extras when I was shaking out the gravel at the end.
That's one of the wheel axles' drive cup and bearing. The screw is held in with LokTite, so heat will be required to get that screw stub out. Also, there is evidently a problem with some of these kits being assembled with CA instead of LokTite, so a fair amount of heat may be required.
As shown in the above diagram, the screw is a M2x8mm flat head.
You won't be easily able to "convert to 2WD" without ruining the wheel axle... they use a CV joint at the wheel end so the shaft is captive. While technically it is possible to disassemble this, it is not meant to be disassembled, so will be difficult to do so without damaging the spring retainer and/or losing parts.
There is a shortcut way to get the diff apart without completely dismantling the frontend. I did it this way myself to grease my diffs. The 12429 comes factory with upgraded metal gears; it needs to be greased with a light plastic safe silicone grease or grease containing PTFE.
I'm using this for the diffs and main spur gear:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07YLLPN51/ It's a little thicker than I like, but it sticks well and once it runs in the drag reduces to nearly nil. It still drags a bit more than I like on the main spur gear; next time I have them apart I may try a dry PTFE or graphite lube instead.
I also apply ChainLube to all the dogbone drive cups and CV joints using a screwdriver as an applicator. It penetrates well, but once the carrier evaporates it stays put, which is what you want.
If you can't salvage what you have, your quickest way up & running is going to be the 12428 parts list from Banggood's USA warehouse:
https://usa.banggood.com/Wltoys-12429-Front-Differential-RC-Car-Parts-p-1636119.html and have them ship to a US address you can pick up at.
Otherwise, you'll have to order from the China warehouse; use the same link and select a Canada delivery address & it'll automatically adjust the warehouse. Upgrade your shipping to Canada Direct Mail (not Canada Priority Direct) and it should be in your hands in 8-14 days. I dunno if Canada still has the $20 small purchase exemption on Duty; adjusting your order size to accommodate may be something to consider.
You may also want to consider getting the whole differential assembly (watch out for the one for the Feiyue FY01; it is similar but no go), and def scroll through all their 12428/12429 parts list:
https://usa.banggood.com/search/12428.html recommended are the aluminum hub hexes if they have 'em, but the huge aluminum bling sets are not a good idea, as there are really only a handful of bits (mostly the wheel hubs) you can used without trading out flexy parts that bend and creating a car that breaks instead.
https://usa.banggood.com/Metal-Heat-Sink-5V-Cooling-Fan-For-1-or-10-Car-540-3650-Motor-p-919362.htmlThis looks like the motor heat sinks I'm using; it has the 2 screws holding the fan on (it works fine) and it has the channels cut in the underside that allow the fan to drive air down to all the fins. You'll need to mod the underside of the body (the part with the driver) with a hot-air gun in the vicinity of the fire extinguisher to get clearance for the fan.
Don't get this one. I tried and no way in hell it'll fit short of cutting chunks out of the body.
Power for the fan is a bit of a PITA; I tried using the LED power but the fan severely drops the voltage if connected there, indicating to me either a current-limiting resistor in the circuit or possibly overloading a pin on a CPU, as the car does control the lights from the CPU to flash them in cases of OLP or LV.
The LED circuit is switched open-drain or open-collector output
(switched from the (-) side for those playing along at home), and you can tap regulated +5V at the LED harness. Then you need to find a BATT (-), which is where the PITA part comes in, as the Receiver/ESC is potted inside that plastic box.
Simplest solution would be to skin the heat-shrink off the BATT(-) connection, add a small (-) wire, then a piece of heat-shrink big enough (or stretched enough with a pair of needle-nose pliers) to get over the whole Deans' connector. I did it by skinning back insulation on the BATT (-) wire near the ESC and soldering to the wire inside with a wrap of Kapton tape. I do not like it at all; totes janky-looking.
Cheers!
mnem