Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[AVGresponding]

so who got the deal of the century?

Immaculate looking Tek 2467B for £135

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-2467B-4-Channel-400MHz-Analogue-Oscilloscope/143988361052

Ooops, my bad, I saw that yesterday, well, early this morning, and was just too tired to power up the PC to link it.

[beanflying]

Hacking a plug isn't that hard for personal use. Pick the right sized bits of K&S tubing to suit the socket cut to length and wrap tightly in Kapton/heatshrink or make a sleeve to hold them apart. Making it look non bodge might take a nice 3D printed bit outside 

Nothing but the tip. Sweated Brass tube to the inside of the barrel and heavy copper wire in the tip (not to deep) cover with tape and heatshrink for alignment and keeping it a bit nice. Heatproof washer then a soldered brass washer at the other end to keep it together.


And if your mind went there wash it now 

[AVGresponding]

The meter is working perfectly. I can now safely poke main to check the waveform! I wanted something like that to work on PSU. There's bunch of features, including a trend mode. I like that 

I've always assumed I can look at the mains waveform, but that's because my first scope is a 123 Scopemeter! (No, I won't try it with a scope not suited to it.)

The other day, I thought about which of my multimeters I'd take if I could bring only one. The 123 is very much up there, because you can see what you measure, and the AC b/w is not like your typical DMM. Only problem is it won't do current. And it needs recharging frequently.

Component tester? Immensely usefull in repair! Very nice catch!

It's like a baby PM99B! Baby in price too, I paid around £300 for mine, though it was a complete, as new, and in the case.

Can't beat a scopemeter (using the word like some people use hoover) for probing the higher end of low voltage stuff (ELV=<50V, LV=50-1000V, IV=1-11kV, HV=>11kV), especially for things like UPS inputs and outputs.

Looks like that rotary selector might make the UI a lot easier to navigate than the Fluke, which is fiddly af if you want to use things like the component test feature.

Nice score!

[AVGresponding]

Hacking a plug isn't that hard for personal use. Pick the right sized bits of K&S tubing to suit the socket cut to length and wrap tightly in Kapton/heatshrink or make a sleeve to hold them apart. Making it look non bodge might take a nice 3D printed bit outside 

Nothing but the tip. Sweated Brass tube to the inside of the barrel and heavy copper wire in the tip (not to deep) cover with tape and heatshrink for alignment and keeping it a bit nice. Heatproof washer then a soldered brass washer at the other end to keep it together.


And if your mind went there wash it now 

I blame AvE

[tggzzz]

so who got the deal of the century?

Immaculate looking Tek 2467B for £135

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-2467B-4-Channel-400MHz-Analogue-Oscilloscope/143988361052

Consolation prize?"Tektronix 2445B oscilloscope on Tektronix K212 portable instrument cart"
https://www.ppauctions.com/lot/156154/lot-880
Be prepared to pick it up from Cardiff.

[AVGresponding]

The first part of the battery store was waiting for me when I got up. Middle section now printing.

Layer adhesion is clearly an issue on tall, thin parts, like the spacers, but I did expect that. I need to read up on the re-heating technique I think.

The electric fretsaw is ideal for trimming the flash as it turns out.

[beanflying]

Deburring tool is the go for brims and knocking the edges off prints. Need to watch heat of any sort so sanding is not a good option eBay auction: #254754226087

By layer adhesion? You have some cracks in the outer wall? Or do you mean the print curled up a bit at the corners (lifting) and separated from the bed?

Cracks in the print outer bump 5C extra in temperature will improve layer adhesion but to much and the finish suffers to much more and you get a melty blob 

[Robert763]

Hacking a plug isn't that hard for personal use. Pick the right sized bits of K&S tubing to suit the socket cut to length and wrap tightly in Kapton/heatshrink or make a sleeve to hold them apart. Making it look non bodge might take a nice 3D printed bit outside 

Nothing but the tip. Sweated Brass tube to the inside of the barrel and heavy copper wire in the tip (not to deep) cover with tape and heatshrink for alignment and keeping it a bit nice. Heatproof washer then a soldered brass washer at the other end to keep it together.


And if your mind went there wash it now 

Neither this solution or the switchcraft connector you linked to is an acceptable solution for electrical safety. You cannot have any exposed metal connected to the meter circuit or less than two layers* of insulation over metal under a part the user can touch. The insulation must meet the requirements for the safety class of the meter. It also has to beet creapage and clearance requirements. No metal tubes!
* You could use one layer of "reinforced" insulation but it would be a lot thicker

[bd139]

The first part of the battery store was waiting for me when I got up. Middle section now printing.

Layer adhesion is clearly an issue on tall, thin parts, like the spacers, but I did expect that. I need to read up on the re-heating technique I think.

The electric fretsaw is ideal for trimming the flash as it turns out.

I wouldn't leave a 3DP on when you're asleep

[Robert763]

so who got the deal of the century?

Immaculate looking Tek 2467B for £135

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-2467B-4-Channel-400MHz-Analogue-Oscilloscope/143988361052

Its described as not working. A bit of a gamble at £135, it could have a bust tube for starters. You migh have dodged a bullet 

[bd139]

Yeah that's a possibility but worth twice that for the parts value on its own.

[beanflying]

Hacking a plug isn't that hard for personal use. Pick the right sized bits of K&S tubing to suit the socket cut to length and wrap tightly in Kapton/heatshrink or make a sleeve to hold them apart. Making it look non bodge might take a nice 3D printed bit outside 

Nothing but the tip. Sweated Brass tube to the inside of the barrel and heavy copper wire in the tip (not to deep) cover with tape and heatshrink for alignment and keeping it a bit nice. Heatproof washer then a soldered brass washer at the other end to keep it together.


And if your mind went there wash it now 

Neither this solution or the switchcraft connector you linked to is an acceptable solution for electrical safety. You cannot have any exposed metal connected to the meter circuit or less than two layers* of insulation over metal under a part the user can touch. The insulation must meet the requirements for the safety class of the meter. It also has to beet creapage and clearance requirements. No metal tubes!
* You could use one layer of "reinforced" insulation but it would be a lot thicker

There will be two and likely more layers. Brass tube will be inside the barrel diameter. And as mentioned personal use. The connector linked was clearly NOT correct just to prove a point that longer ones DO exist. If you want to be the safety police to listen to you own voice then piss off!

[mnementh]

I get where he is coming from; there are impressionable kiddies playing along at home, and we're supposed to be effing engineers who know better. Robert is 100% on target, as far as the unit being used while plugged in; and I for one don't have a problem with him playing safety Nazi in this forum.

Even if you do manage to bodge together a plug that is safe to CATIII, you still have no way of knowing that your selected wall-wart is in any way safe to use to CATIII conditions. That mess of soldered tubing and bodged together coaxial connector bits with electrical tape you suggested... I swear, just imagining it gave me agita. 




My suggestion would be to a) find a better plug; one where the entire connector is a unitized part like this one. They are by far the most common in molded plugs. From there, make your extension of 3DP and hot-glue and/or heat-shrink... but with one big difference clearly mark both the power pack (preferably at the connector) and the back of the meter that it is not safe to use while plugged in, and must only be plugged in to charge.

IMHO, that thing simply is not a good enough scope to be worth the assache/expense of tracking down the OEM charger (I mean, yeah... you have done a quick Google just on the off chance it's readily, cheaply available, right...?) and even then... we all know how many liberties some such manufacturers take with a CATIII rating. I'd STILL Be leery of using it plugged in even with the OEM wall-wart, m'self.

mnem
*toddles off to grind his testicles into a fine powder against the millstone of MacPro once again...*

[factory]

so who got the deal of the century?

Immaculate looking Tek 2467B for £135

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-2467B-4-Channel-400MHz-Analogue-Oscilloscope/143988361052

Ooops, my bad, I saw that yesterday, well, early this morning, and was just too tired to power up the PC to link it.

Looks like it went for less than £135 with a best offer, no idea how much less. 


David

[mansaxel]

and even then... we all know how many liberties some such manufacturers take with a CATIII rating. I'd STILL Be leery of using it plugged in even with the OEM wall-wart, m'self.

On that note, Lidl has a house brand multimeter. It is supposedly Tüv tested and CAT III 300V. And 150SEK. (~15€) If I can find it I'll buy two, one to keep, and one to send to Joe Smith for examination

*toddles off to grind his testicles into a fine powder against the millstone of MacPro once again...*

Given that the computing machine in question is a grater rather than a grinder, would it not be appropriate to talk of "fine mince" or somesuch?

[beanflying]

I get where he is coming from; there are impressionable kiddies playing along at home, and we're supposed to be effing engineers who know better. Robert is 100% on target, as far as the unit being used while plugged in; and I for one don't have a problem with him playing safety Nazi in this forum.

..

Its all about the TONE of what it typed and far from the first time and YOU have taken exception to it in the past too. Sometimes an idea is offered freely and openly is just that and doesn't need a condescending missive as a reply and safety lecture!

As to a 1/16 multi pinned jack then the separation will be worse as it is more layers to isolate. KISS isolate it well or pay the $ for the real deal. Further I am offering an idea not an item to be CAT 3 rated and certified - PERIOD.

[Kosmic]

One of those Scope/Multimeter for 50$ ? sure I'll take it. Was listed as "Untested, For parts or not working" and I was feeling lucky.



It’s funny when something is already cheap but the "Make an offer" option is available, some people get greedy and try to get an even better deal. 2 offers were already pending so I just hit "Buy it now" at 49.99$US. Brand new, the TPI 440 goes for 400$US.

Now fist problem is the DC jack being a really weird format.




So I simply disassembled the meter to hook up my power supply to try to recharge the battery.



<SNIP>

The meter is working perfectly. I can now safely poke main to check the waveform! I wanted something like that to work on PSU. There's bunch of features, including a trend mode. I like that 

Interestingly it's also a component tester

The long plug on the charger is to maintain the CAT III (or whatever it has) safety rating while it is on charge. The Philips/Fluke ones are similar but shorter. Best get the right charger.

Yes, fortunately you can still buy those and it's only 19$ at Digikey.

[AVGresponding]

Deburring tool is the go for brims and knocking the edges off prints. Need to watch heat of any sort so sanding is not a good option eBay auction: #254754226087

By layer adhesion? You have some cracks in the outer wall? Or do you mean the print curled up a bit at the corners (lifting) and separated from the bed?

Cracks in the print outer bump 5C extra in temperature will improve layer adhesion but to much and the finish suffers to much more and you get a melty blob 

No, I mean the spacers are a bit fragile. You can hear it cracking if you put on too much force, which isn't very much.

I saw a yt vid at some point where they reheated the print in an oven, and it improved the strength considerably. I expect temperature and duration are both critical and found by experiment...


The fretsaw works perfectly, the thickness of the flash would prevent the use of a deburring tool. The material behaves much as polystyrene would.

I'll use a fine grit paper to hand finish anything that merits such attention to detail.

[Kosmic]

Front end looks a bit wimpy. But it’s a scope so 

I don't think you need much for CATII 1000V and CATIII 600V. Quickly, I see a PTC and some clamping. But yeah they don't really compare to those big Brymen rated CATIV 1000V.

In term of protection it's still better than all the scopes I have around here

[beanflying]

Deburring tool is the go for brims and knocking the edges off prints. Need to watch heat of any sort so sanding is not a good option eBay auction: #254754226087

By layer adhesion? You have some cracks in the outer wall? Or do you mean the print curled up a bit at the corners (lifting) and separated from the bed?

Cracks in the print outer bump 5C extra in temperature will improve layer adhesion but to much and the finish suffers to much more and you get a melty blob 

No, I mean the spacers are a bit fragile. You can hear it cracking if you put on too much force, which isn't very much.

I saw a yt vid at some point where they reheated the print in an oven, and it improved the strength considerably. I expect temperature and duration are both critical and found by experiment...


The fretsaw works perfectly, the thickness of the flash would prevent the use of a deburring tool. The material behaves much as polystyrene would.

I'll use a fine grit paper to hand finish anything that merits such attention to detail.

Temperatures of my gear to yours or others to differing rolls of filament make a difference so maybe run some smaller prints and bump the temperatures 5C at a time and look and get an idea of what is best for your roll and printer. Even in the past a filament brand change has made me need to do a tweak to mine.

With the brim normally just break it away and cleanup with a deburring tool is what I do but if it works for you then 

[Kosmic]

I get where he is coming from; there are impressionable kiddies playing along at home, and we're supposed to be effing engineers who know better. Robert is 100% on target, as far as the unit being used while plugged in; and I for one don't have a problem with him playing safety Nazi in this forum.

Even if you do manage to bodge together a plug that is safe to CATIII, you still have no way of knowing that your selected wall-wart is in any way safe to use to CATIII conditions. That mess of soldered tubing and bodged together coaxial connector bits with electrical tape you suggested... I swear, just imagining it gave me agita. 




My suggestion would be to a) find a better plug; one where the entire connector is a unitized part like this one. They are by far the most common in molded plugs. From there, make your extension of 3DP and hot-glue and/or heat-shrink... but with one big difference clearly mark both the power pack (preferably at the connector) and the back of the meter that it is not safe to use while plugged in, and must only be plugged in to charge.

IMHO, that thing simply is not a good enough scope to be worth the assache/expense of tracking down the OEM charger (I mean, yeah... you have done a quick Google just on the off chance it's readily, cheaply available, right...?) and even then... we all know how many liberties some such manufacturers take with a CATIII rating. I'd STILL Be leery of using it plugged in even with the OEM wall-wart, m'self.

mnem
*toddles off to grind his testicles into a fine powder against the millstone of MacPro once again...*

It's all good, I found the original one. 

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tpi-test-products-int/A401/270581

Thanks for all the suggestions 

[beanflying]

Cheep Cheep and in stock 

[BU508A]

Not sure, if I would fiddle around with self-assembling a connector for charging it, if there is one at Digikey for ca. 18 Dollar:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tpi-test-products-int/A401/270581

Edit:
Never mind.   

[mnementh]

I get where he is coming from; there are impressionable kiddies playing along at home, and we're supposed to be effing engineers who know better. Robert is 100% on target, as far as the unit being used while plugged in; and I for one don't have a problem with him playing safety Nazi in this forum.

..

Its all about the TONE of what it typed and far from the first time and YOU have taken exception to it in the past too. Sometimes an idea is offered freely and openly is just that and doesn't need a condescending missive as a reply and safety lecture!

As to a 1/16 multi pinned jack then the separation will be worse as it is more layers to isolate. KISS isolate it well or pay the $ for the real deal. Further I am offering an idea not an item to be CAT 3 rated and certified - PERIOD.

I know... I know... we're all characters in here, and that's just his way. It's not personal, and I really don't think he means to talk down in here. This is a well-known issue when talking with nerdly types... I've been caught on the wrong side of that apprehension myself more times than I can count. 

I'm trying to be better, and not so prickly since my last blowup with C... and trying to see the other POV is part of that. That's all.

I agree that ultimately it is your choice to make; after all, you are the one who has to live with the device. If you wanna charge the thing using a bare-alligators-on-line-voltage suicide cord, that is your prerogative. 

But if you post pictures of that in here, you should be prepared for the inevitable cringe, safety Nazi-ing, and random freakouts that ensue.   

mnem

[Specmaster]

That charger is way less expensive than I'd have thought it would be. Might be worthwhile picking up a couple of them so you have a spare.