Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Cerebus]

All this talk of calibration made me actually do some work.

So, today I've calibrated my 0.1\$\Omega\$ current shunt. (99.9796(2901)\$m\Omega\$ @ 21.5˚C k=2), and calibrated and adjusted the HP 66312A (exceeds factory specifications by quite some margin, I'll actually run the factory verification procedure for the record once I can print the forms out [Bloody inkjets! clean nozzles - no, still crap - clean nozzles - no, still crap ...]).

Still no crap is usually a sign that it has been a while since you last printed anything and the ink is drying up. Is the printer near to a source of heat by any chance?

What it is suffering from is being an inkjet printer. <- full stop.

[Specmaster]

That is like my Brother inkjet, document feeder, scanner, copier fax if I want to connect it up as well, printer, colour and by changing the paper tray will print to A4 or A3, net workable and Wi-Fi as well as USB and also full duplex. I also have a colour laser printer as well.

[Kosmic]

So it seems then that the word "calibration" is being misused. What you describe I would call a verification that the device is still within the design parameters. To me and loads of other people, calibration is accepted to mean checking and if necessary, adjusting the equipment in order to meet the design specification and then a calibration sticker certificate can be issued to say that the equipment is performing within its design parameters.

Repairs do not in anybodies mind constitute a calibration, merely an effective repair has been carried out to a level that then requires calibration, (or adjustments / fine-tuning / tweaks) to be made against known standards, to bring the equipment back to a position within the original design parameters.

For example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calibration makes use of both concepts of "Calibration" that have been expressed so far by myself and others in this thread and there is one particular section of the wikipedia that states :-
"In general use, calibration is often regarded as including the process of adjusting the output or indication on a measurement instrument to agree with value of the applied standard, within a specified accuracy. For example, a thermometer could be calibrated so the error of indication or the correction is determined, and adjusted (e.g. via calibration constants) so that it shows the true temperature in Celsius at specific points on the scale. This is the perception of the instrument's end-user.  "
It is that concept that I conjure up in my mind when talking about getting something to calibrated, and it is that I believe most would accept.

Metrologists != most people. Metrology != common.

Many words are misused, e.g. troll, accuracy, precision, stability, resolution, hack, etc etc

Just about the best reference is Fluke's book "Calibration - Philosophy in Practice" The title says a lot. Yes I have a copy.

http://www.introni.it/pdf/Fluke%20-%20Calibration%20Philosophy%20in%20practice.pdf

This is the first edition. The resistor section is interesting. The standard cells one, is a bit less useful. I quess the second edition of the book is a lot more modern ?

Yes the 2nd edition is much more up to date. I have print copies of both editions.

I just found a used version of the second edition for 13$ 

[Specmaster]

All this talk of calibration made me actually do some work.

So, today I've calibrated my 0.1\$\Omega\$ current shunt. (99.9796(2901)\$m\Omega\$ @ 21.5˚C k=2), and calibrated and adjusted the HP 66312A (exceeds factory specifications by quite some margin, I'll actually run the factory verification procedure for the record once I can print the forms out [Bloody inkjets! clean nozzles - no, still crap - clean nozzles - no, still crap ...]).

Still no crap is usually a sign that it has been a while since you last printed anything and the ink is drying up. Is the printer near to a source of heat by any chance?

What it is suffering from is being an inkjet printer. <- full stop.

Mine is over 7 years old and works a treat, period 

[Cerebus]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

The only cure involves a sledgehammer, explosives and napalm, then also doing the same to the defunct Xerox laser sitting in the corner, then buying a proper line printer with a spinning type drum, a proper inky ribbon, hammers, that takes 14" fanfold paper and has a proper high-speed interconnect with a forearm thick cable to the CPU. Over the years I've used every printer technology under the sun, and the only ones that weren't a pain in the arse were proper line printers.

[tautech]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

The only cure involves a sledgehammer, explosives and napalm, then also doing the same to the defunct Xerox laser sitting in the corner, then buying a proper line printer with a spinning type drum, a proper inky ribbon, hammers, that takes 14" fanfold paper and has a proper high-speed interconnect with a forearm thick cable to the CPU. Over the years I've used every printer technology under the sun, and the only ones that weren't a pain in the arse were proper line printers.

Excepting their speed or more accurately, lack of it ! 

[mansaxel]

I manual states to remove the board out the back after disassembling the entire rear of the scope. Now I've had my head inside these 485's for 3 days straight and there's absolutely no way that would work. Anyone who tried that would wind up drilling out the welds and removing the plate just like I did. 

Sounds like the Haynes manual for the Volvo V70N. It is riddled with errors. The two ones I've stumbled on are

• The exhaust manifold / catalytic converter assembly removal procedure is -- paraphrased -- as "unscrew Lambda sonds, open joint to rest of exhaust, remove nuts on engine block, take manifold out over the engine". That is impossible. The only way it'll work is downward, by removing the drive axle to the right front wheel (it passes behind the engine) and manouvering it out there.
• The outer drive joints are to be removed by "hammering with a brass mallet" according to Haynes. Or, one can take an extra long M10 screw and thread it into a hole in the axle where there normally sits a shorter M10 screw serving to hold the axle in the hub. The long screw serves as an integrated puller and simply pushes the joint off. Took 2 hours of hammering and 5 minutes googling and 30 seconds of pushing with the long M10.

Haynes response: "We've not had any complaints so you're in error".  Think they should continue doing Spitfire "manuals" instead of actual manuals for things people want to repair.

[BU508A]

All this talk of calibration made me actually do some work.

So, today I've calibrated my 0.1\$\Omega\$ current shunt. (99.9796(2901)\$m\Omega\$ @ 21.5˚C k=2), and calibrated and adjusted the HP 66312A (exceeds factory specifications by quite some margin, I'll actually run the factory verification procedure for the record once I can print the forms out [Bloody inkjets! clean nozzles - no, still crap - clean nozzles - no, still crap ...]).

And that's precisely the reason why I've bought a colour laser printer. No hassle with the ink! (Elende Sauerei!)

[med6753]

You know med, one day I will fix my Tek 485. And that day I will find all your posts about the 485 and put them all together. Then, I'm going to have a nice book on how to restore and fix the Tektronix 485 

Glad I could help. And let me give you a piece of advice. This is main Vertical board. Don't under any circumstances ever remove it. This is how Curly met his untimely demise. Upon reinstall you wind up with an overloaded and ticking PSU and a fried, and unobtainum, vertical output IC. (That's the large silver can lower right). The service manual provides absolutely no direction on how to properly remount the base of that IC to chassis. I even compared and measured it to a good 485 and still couldn't determine why it was fried. But it was, not once, but twice. Avoid it like Covid. 

[bd139]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

The only cure involves a sledgehammer, explosives and napalm, then also doing the same to the defunct Xerox laser sitting in the corner, then buying a proper line printer with a spinning type drum, a proper inky ribbon, hammers, that takes 14" fanfold paper and has a proper high-speed interconnect with a forearm thick cable to the CPU. Over the years I've used every printer technology under the sun, and the only ones that weren't a pain in the arse were proper line printers.

Proper as in 132 column drum line printers that can actually hurt you if you get too close?

I’m up for anything that does crisp computer modern typeface myself.

Talking of rancid old stuff found another turd today. A branch office running a fucking dialup EDI. Logged in by hand of course running a desktop app. Thought I’d seen the last of them by now

[mansaxel]

I must point out this eBay auction: #133649333523 -- it is a bit expensive, but it's complete. And that is a very practical instrument.

[Specmaster]

I manual states to remove the board out the back after disassembling the entire rear of the scope. Now I've had my head inside these 485's for 3 days straight and there's absolutely no way that would work. Anyone who tried that would wind up drilling out the welds and removing the plate just like I did. 

Sounds like the Haynes manual for the Volvo V70N. It is riddled with errors. The two ones I've stumbled on are

• The exhaust manifold / catalytic converter assembly removal procedure is -- paraphrased -- as "unscrew Lambda sonds, open joint to rest of exhaust, remove nuts on engine block, take manifold out over the engine". That is impossible. The only way it'll work is downward, by removing the drive axle to the right front wheel (it passes behind the engine) and manouvering it out there.
• The outer drive joints are to be removed by "hammering with a brass mallet" according to Haynes. Or, one can take an extra long M10 screw and thread it into a hole in the axle where there normally sits a shorter M10 screw serving to hold the axle in the hub. The long screw serves as an integrated puller and simply pushes the joint off. Took 2 hours of hammering and 5 minutes googling and 30 seconds of pushing with the long M10.

Haynes response: "We've not had any complaints so you're in error".  Think they should continue doing Spitfire "manuals" instead of actual manuals for things people want to repair.

I'd rather repair the Spitfire, whats your Volvo worth?, the spitfire is worth a cool £3.1M to £4M

[tggzzz]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

Got one of these which is actually quite nice. Duplex with document feeder scanner that actually works properly: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HB4V132/

But... Is it any good for toner transfer PCBs?

[Specmaster]

All this talk of calibration made me actually do some work.

So, today I've calibrated my 0.1\$\Omega\$ current shunt. (99.9796(2901)\$m\Omega\$ @ 21.5˚C k=2), and calibrated and adjusted the HP 66312A (exceeds factory specifications by quite some margin, I'll actually run the factory verification procedure for the record once I can print the forms out [Bloody inkjets! clean nozzles - no, still crap - clean nozzles - no, still crap ...]).

And that's precisely the reason why I've bought a colour laser printer. No hassle with the ink! (Elende Sauerei!)

I'm having no problems with either my ink jet or laser, both are working perfectly fine and dandy and both are on the network. 

OTOH I also have a A1 plotter that will take either a roll of A1 paper and cut it to length automatically as required to suit the print length as well accepting A1 sheets, A2, A3, A4 and A5, yes its a ink jet and yes its a bastard and currently in pieces as I don't have the inclination currently to do battle with it putting back together again, but maybe one day soon, just to get rid of it   

[tggzzz]

All this talk of calibration made me actually do some work.

So, today I've calibrated my 0.1\$\Omega\$ current shunt. (99.9796(2901)\$m\Omega\$ @ 21.5˚C k=2), and calibrated and adjusted the HP 66312A (exceeds factory specifications by quite some margin, I'll actually run the factory verification procedure for the record once I can print the forms out [Bloody inkjets! clean nozzles - no, still crap - clean nozzles - no, still crap ...]).

Still no crap is usually a sign that it has been a while since you last printed anything and the ink is drying up. Is the printer near to a source of heat by any chance?

What it is suffering from is being an inkjet printer. <- full stop.

Mine is over 7 years old and works a treat, period 

My hp psc750 is much older thank that; PCMag reviewed it 20 years ago. It has one problem: HP has stopped producing the ink cartridges, so I will have to replace it in a year or so.

[bd139]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

Got one of these which is actually quite nice. Duplex with document feeder scanner that actually works properly: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HB4V132/

But... Is it any good for toner transfer PCBs?

yeah tried it already with this transfer film: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07RG88V2H/

[Cerebus]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

The only cure involves a sledgehammer, explosives and napalm, then also doing the same to the defunct Xerox laser sitting in the corner, then buying a proper line printer with a spinning type drum, a proper inky ribbon, hammers, that takes 14" fanfold paper and has a proper high-speed interconnect with a forearm thick cable to the CPU. Over the years I've used every printer technology under the sun, and the only ones that weren't a pain in the arse were proper line printers.

Proper as in 132 column drum line printers that can actually hurt you if you get too close?

That's the ticket!

Everything what ah like, is either 'eavy, durty, or dangerous!

[Robert763]

So the "Radiation source" arrived from ebay seller Scotttrade12 today. The packing was c*%p in the bottom of  thin box with amothe old box crushed on top  Good job it's not a delicate optical instrument -not.
Anyway preditions were correct, it is an IR source with the output from the pointy end. First photo is with rubber armour removed. With the metal output tube removed you can see the output "window", photo 2. It looks like a random fibre opic bundle. Applying an external light source confirms this, photo 3. The electronics pull out of the back. Nothing special at all, Photo 4. The electro-optics are at the front a ring of 12 small emitters with filters wired as two lots of 6 plus an unfiltered photodiode in the middle, presumably feedback. The two sets of emitters might be different wavelengths. Photo 5. Trouble is the emitters are potted with hard compound into the black block of Delrin like plastic. Going to be hard to dig one out. The emitters and photodiode are coupled to 13 small fibre bundles. The fibre coupler mixes the 12 outputs in a random manner. Photo 6 with external illumination at the "output".
Interesting but not a lot of use.

[bd139]

Interesting. Thanks for the teardown 

[BU508A]

And now for something completely different: pick-up lines.

Inspired by D&D.

    

[mansaxel]

The only cure for an inkjet is to kick the shit out of it and buy a laser.

Got one of these which is actually quite nice. Duplex with document feeder scanner that actually works properly: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HB4V132/

We bought a networked (cable and wifi) Brother colour laser, a HL-3170CDW. Every computer in the house and all phones/tablets will print to it, the web interface is usable from other browsers than M$IE, and it's got a working IPv6 stack. Wholly likable.  Only problem is that as usual, the full-capacity toner pack is an arm and a leg. We've swapped out the black, because that's most important, but the others have to wait.

Recently, wife bought an used Epson inkjet MFP; USB/WiFi, with refill bottles (so low operating costs, allegedly). A royal pain and then some to set up wifi on, only simple if you've got WPS. Hint: Boat anchor wifi like Cisco enterprise kit won't do WPS. After a lot of very confusing mumbo-jumbo with the config program from a Windows host via USB, it suddenly started working. It even scans.

Historically, we've had a series of Laserjet 4M+ and a cheap Tektronix. The Tek was horrible to get to work; the last Laserjet developed a broken JetDirect card (or I'd have it still) and I've got a CompuPrint 925N dot-matrix printer in storage. Less ribbon. It seems impossible to get hold of or I'd set it up on the print port on one of my serial terminals, to print logins and Kerberos ticket purchases to hardcopy. I've got an Axis print server for parallel port printers somewhere, so I could put it on the net too.

But, in general, printers are the work of every Dark Force in universum. I hate them.

Currently looking for a sheet-fed networked scanner.

[bd139]

And now for something completely different: pick-up lines.

Inspired by D&D.

    

Reminds me of the old goth club line: “nice boots, wanna shag?” 

And on to other even more offensive things: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294005032896

 

[mansaxel]

And on to other even more offensive things: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294005032896

 

A waveform monitor is a video item, not an audio item. Fucking loser vultures.

[BU508A]

We bought a networked (cable and wifi) Brother colour laser, a HL-3170CDW. Every computer in the house and all phones/tablets will print to it, the web interface is usable from other browsers than M$IE, and it's got a working IPv6 stack. Wholly likable.  Only problem is that as usual, the full-capacity toner pack is an arm and a leg. We've swapped out the black, because that's most important, but the others have to wait.

Have you checked out this shop?

https://www.druckerpatronen.de/brother-hl-3170-cdw-toner.html

[mansaxel]

Started swapping the RIFA out of the 6237B. It's risen out of spec on capacitance, almost 0,15µF now. And there's cracks....

New one measures within 1% of stated value, like 99,2 nF or so.