@Tautech an old Haswell board may not be worth the effort. I'd throw out the battery and reset the cmos as it most likely got corrupted. You may want to check the mosfets for any shorts though, those are a common cause for failures.
I usedta buy a new POST card every year or three back when I worked for the ISD. Since then, meh... I haven't bought a MB for myself that doesn't have it onboard in like a decade.
Yeah, that B85-M board is a dinosaur... what, 8 year old tech now...? If you need to spend more time on it than it takes to check voltages, nuke the CMOS to defaults & replace the coin cell... yeah, you're fighting a losing battle. Same with that POST card. Money's better put in your mattress towards something civilized. Even if it does work, those VRM caps are running on borrowed time; yeah, they're "solid caps", but they're the cheap-arse 5000 hour rated ones. Those are suspect new out of the box IMO.
Been using ASUS boards for a good while now and it's the only one that's given any issues and as it was a newbie and DOA pissed me off some I can tell you.
Trouble was I'd had it for many months maybe a year or more so trying to claim a DOA warranty was to be like pushing poo uphill so I didn't even bother and as newer HW was out and 1150 socketed MB's were already in limited supply we grabbed what was available to get the thing going rather than need a new CPU also to fit the later boards.
Still I now have some tips to try and troubleshoot the thing before it goes for no return ticket flying lessons !
Yeah; I've always said I never regretted the extra money spent on ASUS... My old 1055T build was on a ASUS M78 board that got killed by lightning strike to a DSL MODEM... after replacing a shorted RPP shunt diode I found, the ethernet controller IC heated up in a few seconds and desoldered itself, falling off the board... after which, it booted normally!
I bought a gigabit ethernet card for $12, plugged it in and ran that board another 3 years.
Well, as you were able to successfully build on another MB, that build should be your source for troubleshooting exchange parts; at least, after you confirm all operating voltages within spec.
If you can find that TL611 card for the release price of ~$15 (at least that's the price people claim in the videos I could find), I'd say that's worth having. Not sure I can say the same aboot it or the TL460S card at ~$40-50 as it seems to be bringing on Amazon, unless there's something fabulous aboot the FW that makes it way better.
Saskia, I haven't owned one in years as I said; do you know which one is the newer/better firmware...?I like that the TL460S has all those testpoints broken out, but the TL611 has the ribbon cables/adapters available for connecting to laptops.
mnem
*toddling off to ded*