hey dragon......a question for you. (since you are the go to guy for stuff that has been stressed beyond the norm).
how would you deal with this? please don't offer a solution that requires a 3d printer. don't have one.....am not gonna' get one. am thinking bondo or some other automotive patch or maybe something involving pop rivets. don't expect it to look like new, or even close. (just something that will keep dust out and prevent people from sticking their fingers in).
(others on this thread will no doubt offer that it is a perfect opportunity to install a fan)
Thanks for the compliment... I think. I'm going to take a moment to get this over with: Uncle Bumblebutt!
Now that we can move forward... hmmm. This one is not as simple as it may appear. It looks like the build and proximity to internal chassis does NOT allow much room for matting inside.
Not knowing what kind of plastic this is, I'd be leery of Bondo or Gorilla-hair type polyester body fillers. Some plastics will not bond at all, and some melt horribly. Also, I'm not a chemistry wonk (C could probably tell you with a fair measure of certainty, if you can tell him what kind of plastic); my recent failure with solvent-welding my 54645A proves that.
Let me think on this for a moment... a few more pics of what is inside would help me devise a battle plan.
Also... this is on a molding seam, not an actual joint in the case, right?
mnem
have not pulled the trigger on it......yet. was not scared off by what might be inside the enclosure.....but that big missing chunk gave me pause. (you might be able to guess where it is listed from this picture)
edit... on the subject of modding vapes. WTF is wrong with people?
Oklay... assuming this instrument front-loads into the shell, what I would do is this:Remove the guts, scuff the edges of the hole and approx 13mm-1/2" around the perimeter of the hole inside with 80-grit sandpaper. Clean inside & out with alcohol.
Now, tape thin cereal-box cardboard to the metal chassis where it is visible in that hole. Try to fold it neatly, so that it forms a cubical shape. This is to create a former which will prevent formation of "negative space" pockets which would allow the epoxy filler to become a protrusion you can't get free of.
Once that is done, use duct tape on the inside surface of the shell to seal up the hole. Make sure to follow the contours of the inside of the shell; use multiple pieces if needed, but make sure the entire perimeter is sealed to an inch or more around the hole if possible.
Reassemble the unit, taking care that as the cardboard-covered corner enters that space, it does not rip or peel off the duct tape. When you have the case screwed together tightly, probe with your fingers to get a feel for where that cardboard-covered chassis is. You need to be thinking aboot where you can push the duct tape inward and get some epoxy under it onto the back side of the shell without making a hang-up obstruction. This is critical to making a strong repair.
Take the instrument apart and do a reality-check; make sure nothing binds or hangs up, and that the cardboard and duct tape have not been dislodged anywhere. If all okay, reassemble using same care as above. Screw down tight.
Now, mix up some regular 5-minute epoxy (not the stinky polyester stuff)... enough to make a layer 1mm or so thick over the edges of the hole and cover the duct tape, but don't try to fill with it. YET. This is where you are going to make the first layer, nothing more. Using an old pencil or Popsicle stick, press inward on the duct tape around the edges of the hole where you know it is safe to do so and get some epoxy on the inside surface of the shell.
Once the epoxy sets up hard, disassemble the instrument and make sure nothing hangs up. If so, you're good to go for matting and a few more layers of epoxy. If not, you'll probably break bits of the epoxy repair and have to patch as needed. No problem.
Next step you'll apply some matting (I prefer single-layer glas matting, but I've used cotton medical gauze in a pinch) cut to fit the opening and try to layer around the edges as much as you're willing to tolerate.
6mm-1/4" overlap around the perimeter of the hole is all you really need to make a field-service ready repair; if you prefer a more cosmetic repair, then only inside the hole so you can glaze over it completely with epoxy. This will likely be perfectly serviceable for decades on a bench-only instrument.
I find it easiest to cut the matting as close as I can manage with the work and matting dry, then apply a thin layer of epoxy to the work as I lay down the matting. Then, as I reach the perimeter, I trim exactly with the scissors. I have a pair of stainless gardener's scissors I use for this work; they're nice in that semi-hardened epoxy comes right off them, as long as I remember not to set them down closed.
Next more epoxy on the outside of the matting, fully saturating it. Do not let the under layer harden before starting on this coat, but do let this layer firm up before applying the next. Keep applying thin layers this way until you've built up enough to fully fill the hole.
Once fully hardened for 24 hours, sand and paint to preference, then remove the cardboard former from the chassis and the duct-tape "release sheet" from the inside of the shell.
Alternately, you can use this process with one of the metal-filled epoxies and omit the matting; but use one of the liquid-gel type, not the putty. Putty requires too much pressure to make a good bond, and will deform the duct-tape release sheet and/or cardboard former underneath. Do a sanity-check and make sure it doesn't attack the plastic before working with it; some of the metal-filled epoxies are polyester-based as well.
I know this sounds like a lot of work, but most of the work is reading this How-To.
The fixing is pretty quick once you know the major pitfalls which I've outlined here.
Anyhoo... that's how I'd PLAN on attacking this problem. What actually arrives on the bench will of course change that plan somehow; it always does.
mnem
"No plan ever survives first contact with the enemy."