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Yeah smells like a clone. One reason I went with Metcal rather than Hakko. Lower risk. Was it advertised as a genuine or clone iron?
Quote from: bd139 on July 03, 2020, 03:58:12 pmYeah smells like a clone. One reason I went with Metcal rather than Hakko. Lower risk. Was it advertised as a genuine or clone iron?Yep, it's a clone. Mnem gets the cookie for having the fastest fingers. The listing shows a genuine one in the pic, mentions the brand as Hakko, but that's it. The handpiece is as poor as Dave suggests, and doesn't contact the tip casing, so the ESD safe claim is bs. Trying to decide whether or not to open a dispute.I reckon I could easily get my money back, but... the thing is, all the bits and pieces together are easily worth what I paid without the soldering station, and from what I understand I could get a genuine Hakko handpiece and be fully functional.Thoughts and opinions welcome.Oh, and could I get a pic or two of the innards of a genuine one please?
Quote from: Ice-Tea on July 03, 2020, 02:34:58 pm Fan wiring in an old HP bench power supply. I'm sure it didn't leave the factory like this. But who does something like that I see some discoloring of the insulation suggestive of black tape goopy. Is it possible (the dwagon suggested, just for the sake of your sanity ) that said wannabe sparky taped it up and that tape dried out/fell off over the decades...?mnem
Fan wiring in an old HP bench power supply. I'm sure it didn't leave the factory like this. But who does something like that
Quote from: AVGresponding on July 03, 2020, 04:18:38 pmQuote from: bd139 on July 03, 2020, 03:58:12 pmYeah smells like a clone. One reason I went with Metcal rather than Hakko. Lower risk. Was it advertised as a genuine or clone iron?Yep, it's a clone. Mnem gets the cookie for having the fastest fingers. The listing shows a genuine one in the pic, mentions the brand as Hakko, but that's it. The handpiece is as poor as Dave suggests, and doesn't contact the tip casing, so the ESD safe claim is bs. Trying to decide whether or not to open a dispute.I reckon I could easily get my money back, but... the thing is, all the bits and pieces together are easily worth what I paid without the soldering station, and from what I understand I could get a genuine Hakko handpiece and be fully functional.Thoughts and opinions welcome.Oh, and could I get a pic or two of the innards of a genuine one please?I've handled oodles of clone Hakko handles; not one didn't come with all 3 contacts in the socket inside the handle. QUALITY of those contacts, however has been HUGELY variable.Now the ESD-safe claim... that's another story. I've seen several where the shell conductor ultimately connected directly to the GND pin of the IEC connector instead of having a safety resistor; however, Hakko has also produced them with no safety resistor. mnem
Quote from: mnementh on July 03, 2020, 05:49:56 pmI've handled oodles of clone Hakko handles; not one didn't come with all 3 contacts in the socket inside the handle. QUALITY of those contacts, however has been HUGELY variable.Now the ESD-safe claim... that's another story. I've seen several where the shell conductor ultimately connected directly to the GND pin of the IEC connector instead of having a safety resistor; however, Hakko has also produced them with no safety resistor. https://youtu.be/LEs2pzw5mYEmnem Yeah the contact is there, it's just too deep inside the handle to contact the tip shell. If it did, it would be direct to earth ground.The only good reason for doing that is if you had a mains voltage heater coil, which this obviously doesn't.Other differences, my xfmr looks grungy compared with the genuine one, would it hold up under full load? Who knows...The power to the heater coil on this is regulated by a triac rather than DC reg that the genuine one looks to have, with that (I'm guessing) 6-10A-ish bridge on the board. No heatsinking on my triac either...I'm leaning heavily towards a dispute, but I'll sleep on it first.
I've handled oodles of clone Hakko handles; not one didn't come with all 3 contacts in the socket inside the handle. QUALITY of those contacts, however has been HUGELY variable.Now the ESD-safe claim... that's another story. I've seen several where the shell conductor ultimately connected directly to the GND pin of the IEC connector instead of having a safety resistor; however, Hakko has also produced them with no safety resistor. https://youtu.be/LEs2pzw5mYEmnem
Was just reading the Condoraudio document. CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE JUST TELL ME I NEED TO REPLACE A SINGLE CAP AND ALL WILL BE FINE???
.......Snicker........
Today my Rohde & Schwarz NGB 32 / 10 power supply arrived.Packaging was okay, no mechanical damage visible.I tried to play a little with it but ...... möööööööp!Dead as a Dodo.
I am a boni-fied crusty old fart, and I hate to admit it but... I cringe every time I fire up my one ToughBook that still has Win7 on it. It feels like I'm looking at everything through a Vaseline lens. I literally prefer the whole feel of my older XP ToughBook. mnem"Get off my lawn!!!"
Taste the Rainbow, Bizzitches...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg2314755/#msg2314755mnem*This Blast from the Past Brought to you by FUKKITOL*
I was curious what's inside the R&S NGB 32/10 so I did a little teardown....
Quote from: mnementh on July 03, 2020, 02:19:26 pmYou're better off without the fuckin' thing; the way they made that lil' bastard, the card is right in your way anytime you want to change the handle, and you have to hold your hand in an awkward position to change the temp unless it's up on the shelf. If I'd been arsed to hack the stupid thing on mine, I might have discovered whatever fault it had BEFORE it died in a blazing fireball of toxic smoke. BTW, welcome to semi-civilized soldering iron country; let me know when you get tired of the mentally-defective firmware on that thing and want to convert to a nice user-friendly OLED T12 controller. mnemYou keep bitching about your experiences with that Hakko and I have no issues with mine. Works fine. Sounds like an operator issue to me.
You're better off without the fuckin' thing; the way they made that lil' bastard, the card is right in your way anytime you want to change the handle, and you have to hold your hand in an awkward position to change the temp unless it's up on the shelf. If I'd been arsed to hack the stupid thing on mine, I might have discovered whatever fault it had BEFORE it died in a blazing fireball of toxic smoke. BTW, welcome to semi-civilized soldering iron country; let me know when you get tired of the mentally-defective firmware on that thing and want to convert to a nice user-friendly OLED T12 controller. mnem