Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Kosmic]

The Ender 3 is earning his keep. I printed a back panel for my Agilent 34401a. The original one exploded in 1001 pieces when I tried to remove the back boot.

Fantastic result  . That must be quite close to the dimensional limits of the printer bed? How long did it take to print?

McBryce.

The bed of the Ender 3 is 220x220 and I'm effectively pretty close to the edges with this part 

[Kosmic]

Moreover ,if you order the part at Keysight (costs 15€ incl. shipping, nothing dramatic) you don't get 1:1 the original part but a chinesium one that fits. thinkfat replaced the rear bezel on his 66309D (=34401a) and that original Keysight replacement part cracked immediately when he put the device on his bench again. Thank God I had the rubber bumper in my unit, and did not happen to me.

That's the thing, with all the handling fee and fee because I was only ordering 1 part, the little 16$ plastic part ended up 70$ 

End that when you can actually still buy the parts. Got plenty of other instruments in need of replacements parts that are not available anymore.

[Kosmic]

The Ender 3 is earning his keep. I printed a back panel for my Agilent 34401a. The original one exploded in 1001 pieces when I tried to remove the back boot.



Fit perfectly!

That really does look very good. Are you also going to printing something to attach in the corners as bumpers / feet?

No the original bumper elevate the instrument a little bit so it's enough. I also have the original handle if I want to change the angle of the instrument a little bit.

[bd139]

Moreover ,if you order the part at Keysight (costs 15€ incl. shipping, nothing dramatic) you don't get 1:1 the original part but a chinesium one that fits. thinkfat replaced the rear bezel on his 66309D (=34401a) and that original Keysight replacement part cracked immediately when he put the device on his bench again. Thank God I had the rubber bumper in my unit, and did not happen to me.

That's the thing, with all the handling fee and fee because I was only ordering 1 part, the little 16$ plastic part ended up 70$ 

End that when you can actually still buy the parts. Got plenty of other instruments in need of replacements parts that are not available anymore.

I'm surprised you get screwed for that much. I've ordered individual knobs etc from Keysight and paid nothing for delivery. Last lot was about £6 for three knobs.

Granted that 34401A display never fecking turned up though. They didn't even charge the card.

[Kosmic]

Moreover ,if you order the part at Keysight (costs 15€ incl. shipping, nothing dramatic) you don't get 1:1 the original part but a chinesium one that fits. thinkfat replaced the rear bezel on his 66309D (=34401a) and that original Keysight replacement part cracked immediately when he put the device on his bench again. Thank God I had the rubber bumper in my unit, and did not happen to me.

That's the thing, with all the handling fee and fee because I was only ordering 1 part, the little 16$ plastic part ended up 70$ 

End that when you can actually still buy the parts. Got plenty of other instruments in need of replacements parts that are not available anymore.

I'm surprised you get screwed for that much. I've ordered individual knobs etc from Keysight and paid nothing for delivery. Last lot was about £6 for three knobs.

Granted that 34401A display never fecking turned up though. They didn't even charge the card.

I think they don't want to deal with individual over here (I guess they prefer companies). They overcharge you until it doesn't make any sense and the client leave and never come back … a bit disappointing coming from Keisight

[Zucca]

https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/03478-88304

PS: Ender 3 vs 5--> 5 is just bigger no precision improvement right?

I already posted my 2014 old brand new 3d printer in Ebay. I am wasted.

[xrunner]

https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/03478-88304

PS: Ender 3 vs 5--> 5 is just bigger no precision improvement right?

I already posted my 2014 old brand new 3d printer in Ebay. I am wasted.

Check this out and judge for yourself -

https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-5-vs-ender-3-3d-printer-shootout/

[Zucca]

Thanks I was just reading it.
Temped to jump on the 5,however it depends how much money I get from selling my current one.

[BravoV]

Fucks sake. Shitty packaging strikes. Chucked in a totally inadequate box loose with polystyrene chips. It's a fucking 8kg power supply FGS.



 

Edit: so case bent and the line switch has had it.

Damn ...    , my heart was pounding angrily seeing that photo.

If you need reference for comparison when you start inspecting internal parts for damages (hope not), just ask, I have plenty of internal photoshots of this PL330QMD.

[bd139]

Thanks - I did actually use that when doing inspection already 

No internal damage. So far it's taken some panel beating and I've ordered a new switch and replaced the plug. It's not perfect but it'll be fine. I honestly wasn't expecting a 100% refund on that but I'm gonna take it.

Here it is on the new "shelf of power". Now with matching underwear  . Power switch is munted there still. I just whacked the rocker back in properly.



I did have a PL310 as well but that didn't have enough juice for most of what I do.

[mnementh]

I'm working on my own take on the Lecroy WavePro front panel though 

Still learning Fusion360.

Fusion with a bunch of practice does get easier        This mornings effort over coffee is a chisel sharpening guide. The cheapy chinese one I got was machined horribly along with other shortcomings and the good ones are stupid $ so I rolled a better 3D printed mousetrap. Not sure what I am going to do with the design but maybe a metal one to sell depending on the costings

Given the low level of mechanical stress it should endure and that by design it rolls on an abrasive surface, plastic might actually be the better material. I'd suggest perhaps that you design so your rollers are actually made of nylon spacers/bushings commonly available at most "Homeowner Hell" type hardware stores. This would give you the precision rollers you want in this application in a highly wear-resistant material; cheap-cheap and easily replaceable.

mnem
*armchair engineering*

[BravoV]

Thanks - I did actually use that when doing inspection already 

No internal damage. So far it's taken some panel beating and I've ordered a new switch and replaced the plug. It's not perfect but it'll be fine. I honestly wasn't expecting a 100% refund on that but I'm gonna take it.

Glad you found its useful, congratz. 

[mnementh]

I added a new section to the OP, "TEA Around the Web," and an entry to the Amp Hour episode mention. Hehe, I guess Dave hadn't seen the page count recently: "something like 500 pages."

I'd be willing to participate (audio only, no video) if someone were to host it. I figure sometime after the beginning of the year. The only hassle is we are scattered across the globe so some of us would have to be up in the middle of the night to participate.

 

mnem
that is all.

[mnementh]

*Peeks in, having confirmed that ICE agents did NOT break down the doors to drag me & mine back to Dumbuckistan*

Meanwhile, back on the Prime Material Plane... eBay auction: #163984957300 :      US$399 WITH 5-year-old Cal. 

Based on £1 a MHz that is not that far away.

That is a bargain for an MCP CRT 2467 with a recent cal of 2013. One with a current cal could easily cost double. And most of what's out there hasn't seen a cal in 20 to 30 years. But luckily these 24XX's tend to hold their cal real well and for us hobbyist's it's good enough anyway.

An additional approx $30 for PSU caps and maybe a fan motor servicing and you're all set. Dunno if the 2467 uses EAROM, or a memory chip with external battery, of a Dallas chip.

I know it is. That's why I brought it HERE for my friends who know what it is.

mnem


*Mom, looking at rusty old car I just bought* "You paid $700 for that...?"

It's not about what it looks like now mom... it's about what it is."

"Okay, what is it?"

"It's a numbers-matching '65 Mustang with the original 170 straight-6 and three on the tree still intact. All the chrome and interior are in the trunk. This is as close to the 64 1/2 release-model Mustang as any mere mortal collector like me is going to get."

*Nods approvingly as she groks in fullness* "What is it... what it is."

[Zucca]

I know it is. That's why I brought it HERE for my friends who know what it is.

mnem

Michelangelo while he was choosing the right "marmo di Carrara" piece to work with, he said: "it is not a piece of marmor, there is a creature inside and all what I have to do is take this creature outside of that stone block".

[Specmaster]

How far did the supply travel? Maybe 100 miles if in the UK? How lame. 

About that actually.

Jeyaay...sus! If you were to try to deliberately do that to a moulded plug you'd be at it for 10 minutes, sweating and panting from the effort. The amount of moronically bad handling required to to do that is quite stupendous, even with the evidently crap packaging job.

Let me guess. Herpes?

Indeed. The packaging was just total shit though. Literally half filled box of blue polystyrene chips with it chucked in.

"DPD Local" was the delivery company.


Edit: new plug on. Tape applied to switch. Seems to work ok!

DPD I always find are excellent, never had an issue with them so, maybe it was an agency driver taken on for the Xmas rush? That said, if the original packing was bad with little or no soft packing beads around it, then the 8Kg if dropped or slid along the van floor in some exuberant driving and then slamming into an immovable object such as the bulkhead certainly exert sufficient force to bend the cover and smash the plug. They reckon that a box of unrestrained tissues on the rear parcel shelf can under the right kind of accident can enough momentum that if it struck the back of your head, could kill you.

[mnementh]

   Fucks sake. Shitty packaging strikes. Chucked in a totally inadequate box loose with polystyrene chips. It's a fucking 8kg power supply FGS.    Edit: so case bent and the line switch has had it.

Welp, here's hoping you can leverage that into a free/nearly free power supply. I suggest you lead with lots of photos and my usual "We need to start a shipping damage claim" tactic. 

mnem
Ho. Ho. HO.

[Specmaster]

Indeed. The packaging was just total shit though. Literally half filled box of blue polystyrene chips with it chucked in.

Good packing for shipment isn't obvious to many people, I don't know why. They don't seem to be able to form a picture in their minds of what the item might experience during handling. I guess they think the boxes are gently placed on trucks or conveyor belts as they are moved here and there.

I pack things taking into account what they weigh for the forces inside the box, and also what they may experience from forces outside the box, such as delivery people who are keen to get the day over and head out to happy hour, or imagine that your box is their recent girlfriend that broke up with them. 

Totally agree, something like that I'd pack with a good 5 to 10 CM of packing beads all around it as beneath and on top and preferably double boxed, jeus its hardly rocket science is it.

[beanflying]

That seller should be closed in a wood box and ship it over the ocean to madagascar without any water.

Now sad news from my side, an old 2014 kickstarter 3d printer popped out from my basement:


https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1784037324/bi-v20-a-self-replicating-high-precision-3d-printe

sell it and get a new one? Or better to follow the rabbit hole trying to get it up and running?

I am sad because I feel like it is a cheap, low quality big 3d printer. WASTED.

My spider senses are telling me to not touch this thing and let it go on Ebay.

Yes, I am so stupid I bought it in 2014 and left in the basement until now.

Good decision to move this one on. Either that or strip it for parts. *** Take ALL 3D printer reviews from all sources with a huge grain of salt as MOST reviewers are getting freebies or percentage of sales. The Ender 3 as a first up fairly idiot proof printer takes some beating.

[Specmaster]

Thanks - I did actually use that when doing inspection already 

No internal damage. So far it's taken some panel beating and I've ordered a new switch and replaced the plug. It's not perfect but it'll be fine. I honestly wasn't expecting a 100% refund on that but I'm gonna take it.

Here it is on the new "shelf of power". Now with matching underwear  . Power switch is munted there still. I just whacked the rocker back in properly.



I did have a PL310 as well but that didn't have enough juice for most of what I do.

Yeah, that is a real big beast for 1A. my 5A ones are way smaller, I still want a TTi one though.

[mnementh]

Now sad news from my side, an old 2014 kickstarter 3d printer popped out from my basement:      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1784037324/bi-v20-a-self-replicating-high-precision-3d-printe   sell it and get a new one? Or better to follow the rabbit hole trying to get it up and running?

I am sad because I feel like it is a cheap, low quality big 3d printer. WASTED.   My spider senses are telling me to not touch this thing and let it go on Ebay.   Yes, I am so stupid I bought it in 2014 and left in the basement until now.

I would strip it out for spare parts for a more civilised unit. My experience with a couple similar units at the local Hackspace taught me that Kessels without metal framework connectors are a complete charlie-foxtrot to get set up square, and no matter how much people who have them argue otherwise, they NEVER keep that setup; you're CONSTANTLY having to re-level/resquare the fucking thing. 

Worse, they will drift appreciably DURING A PRINT. 

That, combined with exponentially lower (literally a factor of 10) maximum layer resolution makes even the best belt-drive Kessel good for VERY ROUGH modeling of larger pieces, but just for pretty much everything else. You wanna cheap printer to make gun stocks with? Kessel is a good choice, IF you can keep layer adhesion going at those heights. (A whole 'nuther level of frustration; trust me.)   

That unit looks like it uses a regular RAMPS/MKS Base 1.2-1.4 controller and NEMA 17 steppers. These are used in pretty much ALL the PRUSA-i3 descendant Cartesian printers. Definitely good parts for another printer, especially if you have the later 1.4 with socketed stepper drivers. 

mnem
*tzzzzt*

[Cerebus]

They reckon that a box of unrestrained tissues on the rear parcel shelf can under the right kind of accident can enough momentum that if it struck the back of your head, could kill you.

Somebody has not been taking their statutory dose of vitamins  Mythbusters. Specifically, they haven't watched season 3, episode 17.

[mnementh]

   No internal damage. So far it's taken some panel beating and I've ordered a new switch and replaced the plug. It's not perfect but it'll be fine. I honestly wasn't expecting a 100% refund on that but I'm gonna take it. Here it is on the new "shelf of power". Now with matching underwear  . Power switch is munted there still. I just whacked the rocker back in properly. I did have a PL310 as well but that didn't have enough juice for most of what I do.

Giggity!!!

mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch*

[mnementh]

PS: Ender 3 vs 5--> 5 is just bigger no precision improvement right? I already posted my 2014 old brand new 3d printer in Ebay. I am wasted.

I'd look into the contents of your kit first. You'll probably be lucky to net $40-50 from it after shipping; there's more than that in NEMA 17 and/or NEMA 20 steppers. Especially if you have one of the better RAMPS controllers with socketed steppers in there. There's a reason I gave away my last Tevo Tarantula; it was worth more to me to see a smile on my nephew's face on XMas morning.

Value-wise, figure approx $10 ea NEMA 17, $15 ea NEMA 20, $15 for non-socketed RAMPS/MKS Base 1.2, $25 for MKS Base 1.4 socketed controller. Another $15-25 for PSU if non-heated bed, $35-45 if heated (both depending on wattage). If all-metal extruder or Titan, another $20. The printhead will not likely be easily adaptable to a Cartesian build, but you may be able to strip it out for nozzle/heater/thermistor.

mnem
 

[med6753]

*Mom, looking at rusty old car I just bought* "You paid $700 for that...?"

It's not about what it looks like now mom... it's about what it is."



"Okay, what is it?"

"It's a numbers-matching '65 Mustang with the original 170 straight-6 and three on the tree still intact. All the chrome and interior are in the trunk. This is as close to the 64 1/2 release-model Mustang as any mere mortal collector like me is going to get."

*Nods approvingly as she groks in fullness* "What is it... what it is."

You were taken for a ride. It's not original. Mustangs never had a three on the tree column shift. All of them, regardless of automatic or manual (3 or 4 speed), had a floor console shift. Demand your money back.