Now that is a right proper jammy git if I have ever seen one. I never get that lucky.
Rant mode on.....I thought we had a Gentleman's agreement to keep political posts out of this thread. I seem to recall asking an innocent question once of the UK folks of their opinion of Boris and I got a quick and terse reply of “Don't go there”. OK, fine. The last few days I've been reading diatribes on here about the London terrorist shooting and whether it was justified or not. Isn't that a “Don't go there” or is that for some reason acceptable? I think not. So is political in or out? And I really don't think you'd much like to hear the opinion of a right to bear and does own a gun Yankee. Rant mode off.
Read The Friendly Data Sheet. (But in my experience they can be hard to come by for things like car batteries, even from companies that ought to know better).
car battery charging
I have limited the Rohde+Schwarz to 20A so it will not boil the test cables.
I have to admit to abusing by HP 6002A in the same fashion.
One reason I tend to buy Exide/Yuasa ones. Always a datasheet!
Well, no... my point in THIS post was that rather than destroying the thing, you should turn it into a victory by retrofitting one of those inexpensive LED rings and designing a nice quiet linear supply to power it.
mnem
*tzzzt*
my good man, i didn’t destroy it, i disassembled it. you, of all people, should recognize the difference.* worsthorse wanders off to find the coffee.
Use with an old oil cooled arc welder. or with the slightly lighter air cooled one I use more, and it will charge a battery up from stone dead to start in around 3 minutes, or around 5 resets of the thermal breaker if you do not wind the current all the way down on the welder. Leave it on for more than 10 minutes and you boil the battery.
Nice Hakko by the way, but with the sheer size of that beast, I'll gladly stick with my small but powerful T12, more in keeping with my bench size, not everyone can have a humongous one like yours, I know that I'm more than a little bit jelly![]()
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The other post was just me picking on Spec.
mnem
*tzzzt*Thats OK cos my shoulders are broad, like yours
My turn nowthat light ring is kind of er interesting
but there is a slight problem, the actual ring (as far as I can see) is not sold separately, so it does mean replacing the entire fitting, not that it is expensive. I might actually get one of those myself, it might be less top heavy than mine, which has the SMPS also in the head adding to the weight.
Well, no... my point in THIS post was that rather than destroying the thing, you should turn it into a victory by retrofitting one of those inexpensive LED rings and designing a nice quiet linear supply to power it.
mnem
*tzzzt*
my good man, i didn’t destroy it, i disassembled it. you, of all people, should recognize the difference.* worsthorse wanders off to find the coffee.Well, disassembling it and scattering its parts to the 4 corners of theearthhouse like the remains of The Blood Queen is not exactly the same thing.
Once you've finished with your current obsession (or at least grown so annoyed with it you hide it away in a closet in defense of your own sanity) I suggest you reassemble it and retrofit an LED ring to it.
In the meantime, you may want to go shopping on AliEx & eBay for "White LED Ring"; they make them in lots of sizes up to about 120mm or so for car "angel eyes" (these are a crap shoot; some are scary bright and some are crap) and effect lighting for photography (these are designed for illumination and are my first choice if I can find the size I need) in the US$3-8 range; as I said, a pittance.
Anything larger than that tends to quickly get expensive, but they also make rings EXPLICITLY to replace the old Circline fluorescents (search Circline LED or T9 LED) for two or three pittances; typically in the US$15-20 range. Those will usually come with a bezel of some sort as well and you can be sure they're going to have nice bright LEDs as they're designed for illumination, but will also come with a pretty noisy PWM converter. You'll need to make a nice quiet linear supply with a resistor ballast to power those.
Alternately, most of these smaller illumination-purpose rings will provide great light... I've seen 100mm 12W rings for like $5-8. But you have to be willing to cut them into thirds or quarters with a hacksaw and make short jumpers for a few traces to connect them so they fit the right size circle.
I've done a number of these; once you get it done and see the much better illumination you get, the result is quite gratifying. If you go look at what a properly engineered LED illuminated magnifier from a decent name like Dazor costs (two of which I've owned in fluorescent versions... they really ARE 10x better than the Chinese cheapies), you'll feel MUCH better about the expenditure of time vs money.
Alas, all mine are packed away in a trailer in BuffaloNY.
As for your project, my fear was mostly that recovering the odd bits you might have felt were no longer important, like the lens mounting hardware and such... would make the project no longer feasible. And depending on her mood, prizing the lens away from Amy could become a quest in its own right.
mnem
Read The Friendly Data Sheet. (But in my experience they can be hard to come by for things like car batteries, even from companies that ought to know better).
Knowing this group, and myself, I doubt the "F" stands for "Friendly"
The Hakko will fit quite nicely in the slot currently occupied by the station in the rear of this photo.
The Hakko will fit quite nicely in the slot currently occupied by the station in the rear of this photo.Did you test it for cord around the handle wrap ?