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It's antenna day here. I put the soaked coax on the NanoVNA and unfortuntely it wasn't very interesting at all. Literally high VSWR down the entire line.This time I'm not screwing it up so I have put together a new head for it which is a bit better designed than the original i.e. it has the coax entry pointing down, is shrinked properly and then coated in liquid tape just to make sure.Please excuse the pikey current balun. They are cheap and work! (Fair-rite 5943003801 - Amidon can fuck off with their markup!)Edit: the wire is sotabeams stuff which is awesome. It doesn't stretch at all https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/antenna-wire-lightweight-100m/Also the moment I decided to go out and set it up it started pissing it down.
Well....that didn't take long. The RCA scope is model 54-45 and is nothing more than a re-badged EICO 430. I thought it looked familiar. And to top it off it was a kit, just like the EICO. No wonder it looks like Gorilla's in there.I found a copy of the original entire manual including schematic on Bama archive.
Quote from: med6753 on November 09, 2019, 04:55:23 pmWell....that didn't take long. The RCA scope is model 54-45 and is nothing more than a re-badged EICO 430. I thought it looked familiar. And to top it off it was a kit, just like the EICO. No wonder it looks like Gorilla's in there.I found a copy of the original entire manual including schematic on Bama archive.Huh, I'm wondering exactly how useful such a scope is other than "hey look there's an AC signal here" or displaying X-Y mode (since it has separate vertical and horizontal inputs).
I will find a way to put the little ONYX2 also in this work room, to play with the amazing grafix ("reality engine"). Not museum.
Huh, I'm wondering exactly how useful such a scope is other than "hey look there's an AC signal here" or displaying X-Y mode (since it has separate vertical and horizontal inputs).
It's antenna day here. ......This time I'm not screwing it up ........
Quote from: med6753 on November 09, 2019, 04:55:23 pmHuh, I'm wondering exactly how useful such a scope is other than "hey look there's an AC signal here" or displaying X-Y mode (since it has separate vertical and horizontal inputs).I have two of the EICO 435's and use one for looking at AC signals and the other in X-Y mode for component curve tracer, just as you mentioned.They are not used very often, about twice a month but handy when I do need them.They also make great heaters for the room during the winter.
I had been casually watching this rather rare Time Electronics 5075 DMM on eBay over the last few days and it had sat at £80 for the best part of that time but in the closing seconds of the auction it shot up and finally went for £361.77. Just wondering if it was anyone from this thread who was the winner in the end.What attracted me to it was the firms reputation for top notch gear, British made and its lovely rich blue display, but hell it one hell of a boat anchor.
With rotten shellac on still-good copper like that (all those "dark" areas of Shellac over copper are "rotten"), leaving it will just result in the rot spreading; but you have to balance the need to repair against the possibility of damaging a trace. Correct solution is to mask off the edges of the trace with something like Kapton tape to protect the substrate, use fine steel wool to scrub all rotten shellac off a section of trace leaving shiny copper, then remove the masking and move to the next area of trace until it is all either clear shellac or shiny copper. After that, clean with IPA and paint with new shellac or clear fingernail polish. Epoxy is also perfectly fine, I've used it in a pinch; just be sure to make a thin coating using a flattened & cut-off Q-Tip stick or coffee stirrer as a squeegee.If i have any doubts as to whether the thickness of the trace has been compromised by acid etching, I consider reinforcing with wire or tinning the trace. This is best done by applying rosin to the shiny cleaned copper trace, then starting at a solder pad and adding a fair blob of solder, then dragging the iron across the bare copper through the flux. Work a little hot & as fast as you can to avoid lumps and to avoid damaging the trace/substrate bond. This requires a fair amount of practice and soldering skill; you need to practice a lot on junk boards to get your technique down pat. After the trace is tinned, clean up the solder pad areas where you started tinning from and paint the trace as above.mnemmoo...?
Incidentally all audiophilery is absolutely bullshit through and through. Even spending £10k on something which is pretty low balling in the audiophile stakes means you’ve spent £10k on something to listen to a low rate recorded by some cheap ass muso hammering shit out on a set of instruments held together with duct tape while the sound engineer was stoned and drunk at the same time. Buying a £50 cable doesn’t get rid of that rusty POS Chinese 1/4” patch they used when they recorded it.
Quote from: bd139 on November 09, 2019, 10:07:24 pmIncidentally all audiophilery is absolutely bullshit through and through. Even spending £10k on something which is pretty low balling in the audiophile stakes means you’ve spent £10k on something to listen to a low rate recorded by some cheap ass muso hammering shit out on a set of instruments held together with duct tape while the sound engineer was stoned and drunk at the same time. Buying a £50 cable doesn’t get rid of that rusty POS Chinese 1/4” patch they used when they recorded it. Yes but it takes a whole lot of expensive gear to reproduce the sound of that crap faithfully.
mnementh what about now? Thanks for making me work like a dog during the week-end. Sorry the out of focus....PS: Carbon fiber scraper is like magic... (Attachment Link)
Wow, is this a audiofool or an audiophil, thoughts please, but this is alledged to be a 1,000,000$ audio system and to me, it sounds nothing special at all. And the unique thing about it is that does not use any capacitors at all in its design.