Well, the PM 3218 arrived, about a week late as the vendor had a brain fart and went on holiday for a week...
Delivered by the Herpes, left on the doorstep in fact, despite requiring a signature, the screen bezel is now a 100 piece jigsaw puzzle, and the control panel is shaped like a satellite dish...
Some of the inner knobs are jammed, many are rotating the whole pot/switch, and there's a certain level of funkiness occurring when the panel is moved
I always knew I'd have to re-cap it and generally check the innards, but this... the case is crusty af as well, looks like it was stored in a damp and draughty shed at the bottom of the garden for the last 20 years
At least it works, at least in general...
A couple of pics to show off the dual timebase:
100KHz sinewave (allegedly)
1MHz squarewave
The vendor has told me they had it 'covered' with SHermes to the tune of £35, so will look at screwing some pennies out of them to cover the insult to the CRO gods
Quick tips on this:
1. Screen bezel is the first thing to break on these. Always is. I have a good one here. 3d print? Possibly when I get some time (and more CAD skills
).
2. The jammed inner knobs is normal after a front impact. Pull them straight off then put them back on and all should be good. If it's a really hard impact the attenuators could be fucked. Mine were but I have spent a very long time rebuilding the damn thing and it's ok now. Also with the knobs, the cap is glued on. Don't try and remove it.
3. There's a RIFA in the back panel under the bit of fibreglass. Replace it lest the firey spooge be emitted into your scope. It'll never smell the same again.
Edit: posting some pictures for tips ... 1 min
RIFA bastard. This is the replacement. Watch the solder tags - they are mega fragile.
Power supply recap. Don't bother with Philips caps like I did. Too much effort. I made an adapter PCB for the big one. Watch the board. Single sided and quite fragile too.
Bingo
This is the 3rd PM3217 I've had. Probably my favourite analogue if I'm honest.
Also you can bring the entire scope up on DC. Just whack 24V across the main filter cap on the power supply. Takes about 1500mA max I think (could be less. It's not a hungry device for sure!)
BTW this is what happens when you forget to change the RIFA. Yes this was my last one: