Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

Some dumbass forgot to add a handle to actually open the drawer. Time for a little manual trimming and cutting then refuse the layers afterward..... [edit] done and in the brain box for next time to add a handle 

I just figured you had a nice shiny metal knob to put on there, or were going to print one in black... 

mnem
I so need to get to work...

[mnementh]

Hahahaha that's quite funny. And you were lucky 

3d printer just arrived  . No time to assemble it until the weekend 

Yeah, right... you’re so full of  !!!

You’re building it right now, aren’t you...?

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Well that was easy.   

To do:

1. Cable management. Need to check everything and tape the ribbon cable to the chassis.
2. Friction adjustment on all three axis.

I am very impressed so far. Nicely engineered!

Back to work ....

*Crosses arms and grins smugly*

mnem
};=)~~~~<

[bd139]

Some great memories there mnem. Love reading about that sort of stuff. Gives you the warm and fuzzies 

Reminds me of that bastard Philips G6 chassis TV I had for a bit though. Was a hybrid. One of the naff ones of the time. Tube side of it was fine. Bloody transistor tuner was awful though.

First print nearly done. All good so far. Plenty of time to fuck up yet though 

[mnementh]

”The devil, she never sleeps.” ~ Grand-dad

mnem
...and she has red hair.” ~me

[bd139]

Well that went well for a first ever print!



No complaints. Tiny bit of stringing but that's not terrible. Will take 5oC off the print temperature next time. This stuff is as near to plug and play as it goes really. Amazing.

[med6753]

Well, I'm giving up. Worked more today on this 485 with no trigger and it's finally triggered me to say "fuck it". It's just not worth any more of my time/money for almost no reward. But it does have value as a parts mule and that's what it now officially has become.


So.....with this 485 passing to parts mule status I can gleefully state that ALL my Tek equipment is now 100% functional and I wouldn't be lying. 

[xrunner]

Wow the thing works as advertised.

Amazing isn't it? 

Well that went well for a first ever print!



No complaints. Tiny bit of stringing but that's not terrible. Will take 5oC off the print temperature next time. This stuff is as near to plug and play as it goes really. Amazing.

[bd139]

Indeed. I was expecting some more fettling  . If I'm honest I'm disappointed in a way. I wanted something to fiddle with 

[bd139]

Well, I'm giving up. Worked more today on this 485 with no trigger and it's finally triggered me to say "fuck it". It's just not worth any more of my time/money for almost no reward. But it does have value as a parts mule and that's what it now officially has become.


So.....with this 485 passing to parts mule status I can gleefully state that ALL my Tek equipment is now 100% functional and I wouldn't be lying. 

We all have skeletons in our cupboards 

[DaJMasta]

Indeed. I was expecting some more fettling  . If I'm honest I'm disappointed in a way. I wanted something to fiddle with 

Start trying other materials and more complicated geometries to print, it's not hard to find things to fiddle with 

PLA is pretty straightforward to print and pretty durable, though.

[bd139]

I'm hooked now like a heroin addict so that's next 

[mnementh]

Well, I'm giving up. Worked more today on this 485 with no trigger and it's finally triggered me to say "fuck it". It's just not worth any more of my time/money for almost no reward. But it does have value as a parts mule and that's what it now officially has become.


So.....with this 485 passing to parts mule status I can gleefully state that ALL my Tek equipment is now 100% functional and I wouldn't be lying. 

We all have skeletons in our cupboards 

Nuh-uhhh!!!

mnem
My cupboards are all empty now... and we’re in “mattresses on the floor and eating from paper plates” mode...

[xrunner]

I'm hooked now like a heroin addict so that's next 

Now get all the little doo-dads off of Thingiverse for the Ender that soup it up and clamp all the little thingies and cables down. That will take a week or more.

 

[mnementh]

Well that went well for a first ever print!   

No complaints. Tiny bit of stringing but that's not terrible. Will take 5oC off the print temperature next time. This stuff is as near to plug and play as it goes really. Amazing.

Did you slice that yourself, or was it a sample gcode already on your card? They typically include one or two gcodes already optimized for the specific printer so you can have a nice success (and confirm that the mechanics of the printer are fundamentally correct) right OOB.

The gcode will take over control of bed and hotend temp; no matter what you set them to in preheat/prep. Typical for PLA & PLA+ will be 185-210 degrees, so small adjustments can make a big difference.

You’ll want to print a temp tower, then some calibration cubes. Then you can get into some of the tuning objects, to help you learn how to tweak for overhangs & choosing supports. 

mnem
*back out into the suck*

[med6753]

Well, I'm giving up. Worked more today on this 485 with no trigger and it's finally triggered me to say "fuck it". It's just not worth any more of my time/money for almost no reward. But it does have value as a parts mule and that's what it now officially has become.


So.....with this 485 passing to parts mule status I can gleefully state that ALL my Tek equipment is now 100% functional and I wouldn't be lying. 

We all have skeletons in our cupboards 

Yep, it joins the other 3 skeletons in the closet. A 2430, 465, and 465B. I'm starting to build up quite a parts stash. 

[mnementh]

That you’re going to use on exactly what, now that you’ve kicked Princess Tektronix out of your bed...?

mnem
 

[med6753]

I'm hooked now like a heroin addict so that's next 

[bd139]

Well that went well for a first ever print!   

No complaints. Tiny bit of stringing but that's not terrible. Will take 5oC off the print temperature next time. This stuff is as near to plug and play as it goes really. Amazing.

Did you slice that yourself, or was it a sample gcode already on your card? They typically include one or two gcodes already optimized for the specific printer so you can have a nice success (and confirm that the mechanics of the printer are fundamentally correct) right OOB.

The gcode will take over control of bed and hotend temp; no matter what you set them to in setup. Typical for PLA & PLA+ will be 185-210 degrees, so small adjustments can make a big difference.

You’ll want to print a temp tower, then some calibration cubes. Then you can get into some of the tuning objects, to help you learn how to tweak for overhangs & choosing supports. 

mnem
*back out into the suck*

Thanks for the tips - will print a temp tower tomorrow morning first thing then some cubes. Need to go out shortly and not leaving it unattended

I've got a simplified fucktopus without overhangs so I can avoid them for print two. Taking it easy to start with 

[med6753]

That you’re going to use on exactly what, now that you’ve kicked Princess Tektronix out of your bed...?

mnem
 

Who, pray tell, is Princess Tektronix? 

[Sam Spastic]

That’s interesting mnem   
Dunno what was going on there ? 

In the nearly forty years of using mains powered units the one thing I’ve never scrimped on is the fence earth so to get down deep to the water table.
Even though it might be an earth connection it should still be insulated all the way to the earth peg/s as when there’s a big short somewhere the peg can obtain an elevated voltage that if nothing else can be a bloody nuisance for all. Especially so if the installation is nearby a milking shed or some animal yard or barn.

Normally elevated earth peg voltages are dealt with by adding more pegs but in the last few decades I’ve used a single full 20ft length of galv pipe to get down deep and be sure to be in the water table.
IIRC I got ~3.5kV on that fence wire when I checked it, piss ant earth and you get nutthing like that 2km from the unit.   

When I was in elementary school we converted from 110V to 220V.  The electrician showed me how to install a ground rod.

1: Get a bucket of water and wet the immediate area.

2: Attach Vice-Grips to the top of the rod.

3: Pump the rod like churning butter.

4: Add water

5: Keep pumping.  The rod will soon be sucked down to the Vice-Grips.

Takes me about 10 minutes in good clay soil.  The hydraulic action will displace small rocks, larger ones may require moving 6" to several feet and restarting.  NO HAMMER needed.

[mnementh]

Don’t be pumping your rod in public, sonny.

mnem
*Equal-opportunity old punk agitator*

[mnementh]

That you’re going to use on exactly what, now that you’ve kicked Princess Tektronix out of your bed...?

mnem
 

Who, pray tell, is Princess Tektronix? 

It was a metaphor for your statement that you were sick of all things Tektronix and wanted to get rid of them. Or did I mix your hyperbole up with somebody else’s again...? (Entirely possible right now, as is conflation error)

mnem
WhuuhhWeTalkin’Aboutt...?

[DaJMasta]

Thanks for the tips - will print a temp tower tomorrow morning first thing then some cubes. Need to go out shortly and not leaving it unattended

I don't want to start a benchmark fight, but while the temp tower can be handy, I find the 3dbenchy boat model to be a lot more useful for dialing in settings ( http://www.3dbenchy.com/ ) than cubes.  Gives you dimensions of several parts to check, but also tests overhangs, bridging, small features, infill to solid transitions, etc. - so you end up checking a lot of potential risky maneuvers for a printer in a single hour or two long print.

[med6753]

That you’re going to use on exactly what, now that you’ve kicked Princess Tektronix out of your bed...?

mnem
 

Who, pray tell, is Princess Tektronix? 

It was a metaphor for your statement that you were sick of all things Tektronix and wanted to get rid of them. Or did I mix your hyperbole up with somebody else’s again...? (Entirely possible right now, as is conflation error)

mnem
WhuuhhWeTalkin’Aboutt...?

That was bd139...not me.