Author Topic: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread (Read 17433208 times)

neo · « **Reply #24675 on:** February 07, 2019, 09:52:41 am »

Quote from: bitseeker on February 07, 2019, 05:19:34 am

Quote from: mnementh on February 06, 2019, 01:33:28 pm
Quote from: beanflying on February 06, 2019, 02:39:22 am
Quote from: nixiefreqq on February 06, 2019, 02:28:55 am
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Local-Pickup-from-Erie-PA-LOT-OF-THREE-Fluke-8375A-Digital-Multimeters/362546242891?hash=item546970a54b:g:-dgAAOSwWrdbnwni:rk:6:pf:0

tempting......BUT.....local pickup only.

5 hours and over 300 miles one way according to google maps. thats a long way to go for nixie meters i don't need.

i don't want them......i don't want them......i don't want them.

(damn....do not have any fluke nixie meters....maybe i do want them? what would neo do?)

'I don't Need' - What the

If the weather was better it would be a great few days tour around the Lake and even a side trip to Niagara with the bonus of Nixie pickup on the way

I'm totes feeling both sides of that argument. If it's any consolation, once I'm in Toronto I might be able to help...

OTOH... Bitseeker, I think we absoulutely need to add WWND? to the first page...

mnem
*Cackles and runs away*

Of course that must be added to the Glossary. How else will new members decipher the meme? Added!

I feel honored.

med6753 · « **Reply #24676 on:** February 07, 2019, 10:12:54 am »

Time to put the newly built voltage references to work. All my DMM's are way overdue for calibration except the Fluke 8810A and the Siglent SDM 3055. The 500VDC reference isn't ready but “half” of it is at a stable and accurate 250VDC. So I decided to use it and it will be applied to the 750VDC/1000VDC ranges. Not ideal but better than nothing.

Started the calibrations. 3 done and about 7 more to go.

First up. Fluke 8000A. If you recall this was the unit that had the poorly designed power supply resulting in significant drift. I redesigned the power supply and eliminated the drift. All it needed was a slight tweak of the 190.0mV but all the other ranges were OK.

Next. Fluke 8010A. This one was a surprise. When I bought it 2 years ago the DCV was way off and the ACV completely dead. The DCV thin film input divider was somehow damaged. I removed it and built up a replacement of discrete 0.1% resistors. The ACV issue was a bad tant. Despite those significant repairs this guy was well within limits on all ranges so there were no adjustments required.

Fluke 8600A. This one has also had significant repairs in the past year to fix drift issues. But everything was within limits except the 1000VDC range as shown. Now it's OK.

That's it so far. Volt-nut at work.

beanflying · « **Reply #24677 on:** February 07, 2019, 10:21:21 am »

@med want some 'modern' Transistors to replace you old tube

med6753 · « **Reply #24678 on:** February 07, 2019, 10:26:19 am »

Nope.

That tube is an octal 7A6 used in the Heath V-5 VTVM. That's the original (and still good) tube in the box. I bought a backup a few years ago that's currently in the VTVM. The 7A6 is small signal duo diode just like the miniature 6AL5 used in later model Heath VTVM's.

bd139 · « **Reply #24679 on:** February 07, 2019, 10:54:21 am »

Wish you still got transistors like that. 2n5786 is a beast for the package type. Would make a decent little HF PA.

beanflying · « **Reply #24680 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:03:21 am »

I think these Diodes beat it for packaging. Can't find any data on them but I have a small lot of them from the same bulk lot the connectors came from too.

med6753 · « **Reply #24681 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:11:17 am »

Quote from: beanflying on February 07, 2019, 11:03:21 am

I think these Diodes beat it for packaging. Can't find any data on them but I have a small lot of them from the same bulk lot the connectors came from too.

I'll bet if you could somehow cross reference them to HP part numbers they would turn up.

beanflying · « **Reply #24682 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:15:03 am »

I did a proper look a while back which got me to only BS buy from me sites and no real information. As this gear is from someone with an RF background they could be a special of some sort?

bd139 · « **Reply #24683 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:15:17 am »

I know someone who has a ton of weird microwave stuff. I will drop him an email with the part number.

Early 70s packaging by the looks

bd139 · « **Reply #24684 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:49:42 am »

He just emailed back already “not a clue mate”. That was unhelpful

beanflying · « **Reply #24685 on:** February 07, 2019, 11:53:52 am »

I have a Ham not far away I know really well so they can go in his collection with some of the other miscellaneous RF bits as I owe him for SA and Scope time so a bit of payback. Junk for TEA rental

Specmaster · « **Reply #24686 on:** February 07, 2019, 12:23:58 pm »

That's brilliant med, well done with your homebrew standards. How is the lady bearing up now after her nasty experience?

Martin.M · « **Reply #24687 on:** February 07, 2019, 04:06:21 pm »

hello BD139

HP54601A
the "squashed Display"

can you tell me what Elko is there for the vertical section? So i must noch check that all.
thank you

bd139 · « **Reply #24688 on:** February 07, 2019, 04:16:32 pm »

On mine it was one of the ones at the front left. Couldn't see it until it had been desoldered.

To get it out you have to disconnect the CRT assembly from the board by removing the IDC connector, undo the mounting screws for the chassis and the entire CRT chassis comes out. Then undo the CRT yoke connector / board (carefully - there will be silicon goop on) and then the mounting screws holding the board. Rework the caps and do everything in reverse. Caps are pretty standard value low voltage ones if I remember.

Martin.M · « **Reply #24689 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:28:42 pm »

bd139 · « **Reply #24690 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:44:12 pm »

That will be the one then

TERRA Operative · « **Reply #24691 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:47:02 pm »

Woo, replace it with a nice 105deg rated, long lifetime United Chemicon, Rubycon or Nichicon and go to the next voltage rating up for good measure.

Martin.M · « **Reply #24692 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:47:16 pm »

so I got it. The squashed picture

bd139 · « **Reply #24693 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:52:10 pm »

Is that after? Might be another dead one in there. Just looked at my notes and I replaced C608 and C609

Edit: don’t forget to play Tetris on it when it’s working

Martin.M · « **Reply #24694 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:53:42 pm »

no, that was before opening the case.

now I insert a spare, 10µ 400V (epcos)
the bigger one there, 1000/16 is tested 912µF, not dead

bd139 · « **Reply #24695 on:** February 07, 2019, 05:54:23 pm »

Cool. Phew. Thought this was a new failure mode for these

Specmaster · « **Reply #24696 on:** February 07, 2019, 06:12:45 pm »

Quote from: Martin.M on February 07, 2019, 05:28:42 pm

Oh hell yeah, that will be so dry inside that it has zero electrolyte left, is that the only one?

Specmaster · « **Reply #24697 on:** February 07, 2019, 06:14:40 pm »

Quote from: Martin.M on February 07, 2019, 05:53:42 pm

no, that was before opening the case.

now I insert a spare, 10µ 400V (epcos)
the bigger one there, 1000/16 is tested 912µF, not dead

What is the ESR on the 912uF one, it might as well to replace that as well while you're in there.

Martin.M · « **Reply #24698 on:** February 07, 2019, 06:19:01 pm »

it was 0,26 ohms.
I have to buy a knob for him.

with thanks to BD139:

bd139 · « **Reply #24699 on:** February 07, 2019, 06:27:10 pm »

Cool

Important test steps:

#1 Power on the scope
#2 Press the button "Print/Utility" once
#3 Hold "function button" (the 6 buttons beneath the display) 2 and 3 down at the same time, for half a second


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Author Topic: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread (Read 17433208 times)

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