Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[med6753]

I have plastic Rhino ramps with 12K lb capacity and never had an issue with them. I've had vehicles as heavy as a Honda CR-V on them with no concerns for safety. They are strong.

I just checked those out and even though I assume they would have been sued into oblivion by now if these things are actually dangerous, they do look thin and chancy as anything. I expected some very solid thick plastic, while they look and sound awfully insubstantial. Reason tells me it should be fine, but my monkey brain is sounding the alarm on this one.

Your concern is certainly justified. All I can say in support of these ramps is that I've had them nearly 15 years and not once noticed any bending or buckling under load. What you don't see is substantial ribbing and reinforcement underneath.

[Specmaster]

Actually I'll post something now TEA related...sort of.

Christmas present from the lady. A Dremel tool. Never had one and I don't know how many times I could have used one. Now I have one. This one is battery operated and it's currently on charge. Speaking of the battery....I'm a little dismayed that it still uses Ni-cads rather than Lithium. So I have to deal with battery "memory" and typically short life span of Ni-cads. But I'll make due.

They are really handy, I purchased a clone version from Lidl and I don't know how many times it has saved the day, from cutting and grinding away metal to make things fit to polishing, cleaning and cutting plastics etc. Even over the holidays, while not officially allowed to engage in full on TEA activities, it proved useful in modifying a dimmer switch plate to allow a dimmer module fit onto a plate it was not designed for in order to preserve the single supplier / look for the electrics in my sons new flat. That's something that would not have been possible without the dremel 

Nice. I need one, too. Does the drill press like mount for it work well? Seems it'd be a good accessory, if it's stable.

Don't know. I didn't come with that accessory. Maybe Specmaster can answer that question.

I don't know either, TBH I didn't think you was asking me as I assumed that you seen an advert for a dremel that had that particular attachment. Mine is only a cheap clone with sanding / grinding / polishing and wire brushes etc bundled with it it.

[Mr. Scram]

I think the Dremel drill press accessory is a separate one, and not entirely cheap either.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Workstation-Station/dp/B00068P48O

[Mr. Scram]

Your concern is certainly justified. All I can say in support of these ramps is that I've had them nearly 15 years and not once noticed any bending or buckling under load. What you don't see is substantial ribbing and reinforcement underneath.

I've seen them on both sides in pictures and video, but what doesn't sit well with me is that I've seen structures buckle and collapse as soon as the ribbing got compromised or over-stressed. The more you depend on geometry, the more vulnerable things become when the geometry is compromised. As I've said before, I can only assume these are safe if they've existed for that long without being sued into the ground. It just gives me the heebie jeebies.

The video below is a fair example of a truss structure collapsing after the geometry was compromised very modestly. The suspended aircraft rotates due to apparently no tethers being used, the wing softly bumps the bottom chord probably bending it ever so slightly and the whole thing loses its carrying capacity.

[beanflying]

I have plastic Rhino ramps with 12K lb capacity and never had an issue with them. I've had vehicles as heavy as a Honda CR-V on them with no concerns for safety. They are strong.

I just checked those out and even though I assume they would have been sued into oblivion by now if these things are actually dangerous, they do look thin and chancy as anything. I expected some very solid thick plastic, while they look and sound awfully insubstantial. Reason tells me it should be fine, but my monkey brain is sounding the alarm on this one.

Your concern is certainly justified. All I can say in support of these ramps is that I've had them nearly 15 years and not once noticed any bending or buckling under load. What you don't see is substantial ribbing and reinforcement underneath.

Back to the original question Jack Stands NEVER NEVER NEVER  So many deaths and injuries have resulted. Not that they won't work but in the wrong place or setup a small shove from the side on the car body and you are a pancake. Plastic Ramps wouldn't be my first choice but you will still have some warning of problems with repeated use either deformation, yield under load or stress cracking (would need to be the wrong plastic). Welded Steel for me when I have needed to use them over the years.

[bitseeker]

Yep, I'm very wary of everything related to lifting/supporting vehicles, hence my inquiry to avoid becoming a pancake for something as simple as an oil change. The Race Ramps, although a bit pricey, are at least not hollow.

My dad welded his own steel ramps decades ago (weighed a "ton" and worked great), but they're too narrow for sports car tires.

[Specmaster]

+I too also welded up my own set of car ramps years ago but since I became a company car user, I had no need of them so I sold them on, now I've retired, the cars have become so complicated that almost all of the repairs require specialist equipment especially on my car which computers for everything, I leave the repairs and servicing to the dealers. Fortunately I don't do that many miles now and the car is surprisingly cheap to repair, or at least it has been so far as the only thing it needed apart normal services has the cambelt and waterpump change which has to be done every 4 years to avoid the possibility of a massive engine failure and write off, so not been a problem.   

[tautech]

Actually I'll post something now TEA related...sort of.

Christmas present from the lady. A Dremel tool. Never had one and I don't know how many times I could have used one. Now I have one. This one is battery operated and it's currently on charge. Speaking of the battery....I'm a little dismayed that it still uses Ni-cads rather than Lithium. So I have to deal with battery "memory" and typically short life span of Ni-cads. But I'll make due.

They are really handy, I purchased a clone version from Lidl and I don't know how many times it has saved the day, from cutting and grinding away metal to make things fit to polishing, cleaning and cutting plastics etc. Even over the holidays, while not officially allowed to engage in full on TEA activities, it proved useful in modifying a dimmer switch plate to allow a dimmer module fit onto a plate it was not designed for in order to preserve the single supplier / look for the electrics in my sons new flat. That's something that would not have been possible without the dremel 

Nice. I need one, too. Does the drill press like mount for it work well? Seems it'd be a good accessory, if it's stable.

Yep, they’re not too bad and stability is not an issue.
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/220-01-workstation

Not what you’d consider precision but good enough for most tasks.
Of concern would be the little play it has if you were to use carbide drills for say FR4.
All my prototypes are Paxolin so HSS works just fine.

[bitseeker]

Yeah, PCBs and panels were what I was thinking about for the drill press. Alas, I didn't come upon a good deal on Dremels or similar during the holidays, but will keep my eyes peeled.

The only TEA-related stuff I got recently were a variety of Pomona cables. Mostly banana patch cables, but also a few BNC to replace the el cheapo ones that kept falling apart.

[beanflying]

Much as I have had a Dremel for well over 20 years a better front end bearing would be nice. I keep looking at Proxxon and similar to replace it with but the price always puts me off again. A few broken Carbide drills costs a lot less and the old beast just keeps going.

Might be tempted to make one of these for mine and would just need to tweak the clamps as mine is an older style. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:754248

[GreyWoolfe]

Since we seem to be a diverse group of DIY folks, what do y'all use for automotive ramps (or do you just go with jack stands)? I'm wary of the plethora of wimpy metal and even wimpier plastic ramps that seem to be prevalent these days.

I was looking at the 56" model of Race Ramps as a possibility since the approach angle is low enough. But I haven't seen what they're like in person.

I had a set of steel ramps I picked up from a yard sale.  Had them for years.  I gave them away as I am at a point where I can't lay flat on the ground under a car any longer, I get nauseous and light headed.  I can't even do my own oil changes any more.  If I can sit or stand, I can work, just can't lay down.

By the way, X--awesome layout.

[Brumby]

I have a set of steel ramps made from welded angle that I bought some time way back in last century.  I've put a Falcon, a Tarago and a couple of other vehicles up on them and they are rock solid.

These days, they live at a garage that's not outside my back door (I have 4 adult sons).  Instead, I picked up two pairs of 3,000kg stands and lift the whole vehicle up on them.  Being very aware of stability, they are placed sensibly and once up, I give the vehicle a shake and a couple of solid shoulder charges to make sure it's happy to stay there, before I slide under.

... I am at a point where I can't lay flat on the ground under a car any longer, I get nauseous and light headed.  I can't even do my own oil changes any more.  If I can sit or stand, I can work, just can't lay down.

I know the feeling.  I can still lay flat for a period of time - but the unwell feeling will come in a few minutes.  It makes me longingly look back at a time when I was helping out at a mechanic's workshop where they had 3 hoists.  I then remember what some of the work was like - and that longing evaporates.

[Specmaster]

Since we seem to be a diverse group of DIY folks, what do y'all use for automotive ramps (or do you just go with jack stands)? I'm wary of the plethora of wimpy metal and even wimpier plastic ramps that seem to be prevalent these days.

I was looking at the 56" model of Race Ramps as a possibility since the approach angle is low enough. But I haven't seen what they're like in person.

I had a set of steel ramps I picked up from a yard sale.  Had them for years.  I gave them away as I am at a point where I can't lay flat on the ground under a car any longer, I get nauseous and light headed.  I can't even do my own oil changes any more.  If I can sit or stand, I can work, just can't lay down.

By the way, X--awesome layout.

I'm the same, it must be age related and it is so difficult to get up again these days, I need a set of ramps or similar to lift me up from the floor, having dodgy knee does little to help either 

[mnementh]

I have trouble getting up and down to work on my cars too; overweight and bum knee make for a painful combination.

I've been a pro mechanic on & off for 30 years; jackstands properly applied are by far the safest means of raising a car. Unless you're one of those 1d10ts who hits the ratchet lever with a crowbar or hammer to let the vehicle down; then you deserve to get sqwashed like a bug.

mnem
And please do it before you have a chance to breed. 

[Brumby]

Unless you're one of those 1d10ts who hits the ratchet lever with a crowbar or hammer to let the vehicle down...

That's why I prefer to use the pin type (and, YES, I do make sure the retaining clip is fitted).  The downside is that they are harder to drop - but the upside is that they are harder to drop.

[beanflying]

"Properly applied" being the point. Most buyers of these get them because they are the cheapest solution and have never used them before. I do own a set btw I made in Secondary School and so far my chicken scratching welds have held up. I also have Ramps I much prefer to use. For numpty first time users they are asking for a Darwin Award with stands. Last time I used the stands I had the rear Diff out of my old Land Rover so ramps wouldn't work anyway so there is a place for them.

Yes I was replacing a broken half shaft along with a rebuild

[Housedad]

I use 12 ton ratcheting jackstands to put my Ford Excursion in the air on 4 points.  I've done it about 6 times now.  Sturdy as heck.  Please believe me that I will not go under a vehicle that is not safe.  I did that when I was young and paid the price the hard way.    My Excursion is about 8100 lbs. (3680 kilo) normal running weight full of gas.  It has a lot of mods and heavy aftermarket bumpers with front and rear 16500 lb winches. 

I will never, never, never use pin jacks again.

[Specmaster]

By far the safest way to work under vehicle is either a properly designed, used and maintened 4 wheel hoist, locked at each corner and electrical controls locked off. Or a properly constructed pit and axle stands but also depends on the area being shut off from other vehicles hitting it. While I was an apprentice I saw a bus driver reversing his bus squarely onto a bus over a pit for repair and knock it off its stands, no one was hurt and the pits had proper exits to the side.

[beanflying]

Deathwish - the use of items gifted by or belonging to SWMBO used in the exchange of or purchasing test gear.

Depending on the SWMBO this could be downgraded to 'Living on the Edge' or 'Thrillseeking' and for a very lucky few just 'Eye Rolling' and a sigh.

So fess up Brumby have you told her yet what you did with her Christmas Gift to you yet

[med6753]

I have trouble getting up and down to work on my cars too; overweight and bum knee make for a painful combination.

I've been a pro mechanic on & off for 30 years; jackstands properly applied are by far the safest means of raising a car. Unless you're one of those 1d10ts who hits the ratchet lever with a crowbar or hammer to let the vehicle down; then you deserve to get sqwashed like a bug.

mnem
And please do it before you have a chance to breed. 

Luckily I don't have any physical ailments that prevent me from crawling around under the vehicle doing oil changes, tire rotations, tune ups, other minor work, etc. But I do feel it one or two days later with the aches and pains. 

[mansaxel]

They came in very handy for removing kids toy's from zip ties - we are on holidays interstate so the only tools I had were my own Xmas present.

I never ever travel without tools. "Tool set completeness" is very related to T.E.A. Now, I've discovered a actual need for a B.A. spanner/socket set, in addition to metric, AF and Whitworth.. An IKEA lamp where some nuts holding the screen are 3BA. Of course I can handle them with the adjustable spanner, but that is not elegant.

[Specmaster]

Gosh, you know I can't remember the last time I had to use my BA spanners / sockets, back in the day they were my most used spanners 

[med6753]

Spanners?  Oh, you mean a wrench. 

[Specmaster]

Nope, over this side of the pond we use words wisely and so a spanner is something that is used on nuts and bolts and a wrench is something that we normally reserve for pipe work such as a plumber would use a wrench to screw pipes together etc. 

[Brumby]

So fess up Brumby have you told her yet what you did with her Christmas Gift to you yet

Ahhhh ....... not yet.

I'm waiting to show her what I got with it.  It's going to have a nice electronics looking box with connectors, clips and cables ... just the sort of thing she knows will interest me.  If I can get it up and running for the reveal, I'll try and have something interesting up on the screen.  She won't know (or care) what it is - but squiggly lines will look good - and she will be happy that I'm happy.