Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[xrunner]

Since both of our replies included a post about the radio backlights, that was the primary focus of my RGB comment. It's cool that the RC control's screen already does that. I haven't seen it done in a ham shack rig, yet.

The original Yaesu FT-450 would allow you to change the RGB of the display, but later they removed this ability - not sure why.

[bitseeker]

That's unfortunate. Perhaps a cost-cutting measure and/or rarely used functionality (of course, when you bury functionality in service menus, it's a self-fulfilling prophecy when it doesn't get used).

"Hey, I'm watching a video of a guy spinning knobs."

[bd139]

I think that’s because the 450D has white. And that is amazingly good.

Although my 450 has just gone. I haven’t touched it since I got the 818. Been operating QRP and had some pretty decent success despite the awful conditions and shitty antenna location. I will buy a heftier FT rig when I move house if I can afford it after curtains and decorating etc and have enough room for an 80m antenna.

[mnementh]

    I never was very good at choosing... though I am partial to deep prrrple.
We'll see what I find when my HP 3478A gets here on Thursday; I may attack its lack of backlight in similar fashion. 

Well, if you're really indecisive, you could always install RGB LEDs and change the color on a whim.

     I was making a joke that I thought would be self-evident to anyone in this crowd... 

I toyed with the idea of including this pic at the time, but decided the post was already too bloated and assumed it was just pointing out the incredibly obvious.  ASS|U|ME, etc... 

Since both of our replies included a post about the radio backlights, that was the primary focus of my RGB comment. It's cool that the RC control's screen already does that. I haven't seen it done in a ham shack rig, yet.

It doesn't. This is totes custom; from a mod article I did for my RC blog. Hence the piece of 5050 RGB light strip as example and the remote at the bottom of the pic.  Other versions I R&Ded had custom LED bars with much higher density; both 5050 and ws2812 versions. But the ws2812s were noisy, and 30 5050 LEDs draw a lot of juice from a battery-powered TX. 

As a result, I just stuck with the quick & dirty 5050 RGB version when i did the mod for others... parts cost ~$20 and you get most of a roll of 5050 RGB LEDs left over for other toys.


Proof-of-concept lightbar & PWM controller for Taranis

I did mess around with an I2C bus PWM Sink controller in earlier incarnations; but the guys at openTX were busy trying to get the basics ironed out for the next iteration of the Taranis, the X9E. They were spread pretty thin already, and while Mike Blandford thought it was a good idea, and even played with a prototype PCB LED bar and controller I sent on his own TX, there just wasn't time to make integration happen. Then FRSky released the Horus hot on the X9E's heels, and that was a completely new platform. Sooo... 

mnem
Time to collect the children...

[bitseeker]

This is totes custom; from a mod article I did for my RC blog. Hence the piece of 5050 RGB light strip as example and the remote at the bottom of the pic.  Other versions I R&Ded had custom LED bars with much higher density; both 5050 and ws2812 versions. But the ws2812s were noisy, and 30 5050 LEDs draw a lot of juice from a battery-powered TX. 

As a result, I just stuck with the quick & dirty 5050 RGB version when i did the mod for others... parts cost ~$20 and you get most of a roll of 5050 RGB LEDs left over for other toys.

Ah, hence the remote control for it. Nicely done!

[Specmaster]

Since both of our replies included a post about the radio backlights, that was the primary focus of my RGB comment. It's cool that the RC control's screen already does that. I haven't seen it done in a ham shack rig, yet.

The original Yaesu FT-450 would allow you to change the RGB of the display, but later they removed this ability - not sure why.

That's a very cool feature which I like as the actual screen remains black and the characters change colour. The original one example given showed the screen changing and characters remaining black which isn't as easy on the eye.

[xrunner]

"Hey, I'm watching a video of a guy spinning knobs."

Would you believe some people think this hobby is boring? 

[Specmaster]

Seeking help from you RF guys on here, as you know, I'm more of audio guy TBH. I have trying restore a TEAC CR-H250 receiver which as AM/FM/DAB radio bands and CD/Tape and Aux audio inputs. I have got everything else working but had zero luck with the DAB section and over the weekend I was lucky enough to snag another unit that is supposed to be the same albeit with slightly lower output. This new unit has a working DAB tyner that I thought I could transplant into the defective unit, but when tore the unit down to gain access to the DAB tuner it showed massive evidence of having suffered water ingress and I attach 2 pictures which show the inside of the screening can and its cover I'm wondering if you guys can advise me the best way to clean this up before fitting it to the unit.

The new donor unit has dead audio channel and a defective CD player which I shall attack once I have the other one up and running correctly.

[xrunner]

... I attach 2 pictures which show the inside of the screening can and its cover I'm wondering if you guys can advise me the best way to clean this up before fitting it to the unit.

I'll let bd139 go first since he must be more familiar with British oxidation than I ... 

[bd139]

That looks like "shed juice" to me.

Beyond economical repair. Absolutely no way to clean that up and get it working.

[mnementh]

Since both of our replies included a post about the radio backlights, that was the primary focus of my RGB comment. It's cool that the RC control's screen already does that. I haven't seen it done in a ham shack rig, yet.

The original Yaesu FT-450 would allow you to change the RGB of the display, but later they removed this ability - not sure why.

That's a very cool feature which I like as the actual screen remains black and the characters change colour. The original one example given showed the screen changing and characters remaining black which isn't as easy on the eye.

That's just a matter of the polarization of the filter on the LCD; back in the day it was a separate piece of film and you could invert the display on pretty much any LCD just by turning it or flipping it over. But everybody thought inverted was hard to read, especially in low-nit backlit and transflective applications. Around about 2000 along came high-intensity blue LEDs and suddenly they had enough light to waste that they could make inverted generally readable and LED backlit LCDs became the norm, and blue backlit LCDs became a "thing".

Personally, I think inverted blows; but I have poor eyesight so prefer higher contrast.

mnem
*Time to make the dinner*

[bd139]

Agreed. Whoever invented those awful chinese POS white on blue background LCDs needs to be shot in the face. Bright light outside? can't see shit because the contrast is awful! Dark inside? Can't see shit as it's too bright!

Give me a murky green LCD with green backlight any day. Works in any condition. Cheap 16x1 unit from RS. Think it was about £8




TBH the FT-450D is the only decent inverted one I've seen. The white backlight is stupid bright and the dark bits stupidly dark. works nicely. That is a total rarity. I suspect the original FT-450 wasn't /that/ good.

[Specmaster]

That looks like "shed juice" to me.

Beyond economical repair. Absolutely no way to clean that up and get it working.

What!, it is actually working OK believe it or not, I know I found it hard to believe as well.

I could just fit it as it is but I know that won't be long before problems will arise. if I don't find a way to slow down or edicate the rust.

I was thinking of dousing in with alcohol and scrubbing it gently with a toothbrush, leaving it in a warm airing cupboard to thoroughly dry out and then maybe applying some silicon grease to the metalwork to seal it?

[mnementh]

I've saved TV tuners from similar contamination... unsolder the tin RF shield, then you can get in there with alcohol and a toothbrush.

Lay the toothbrush against the PCB and squirt alcohol on it then scrub, tilting the board up so the alcohol and nasty stuff drip off the edge of the PCB. Keep doing this until it all comes clean. You want to squirt alcohol under ICs until it runs out clean under the other side too. You can limit the mess by working on an old towel and letting it soak up all the scuzzy alcohol.

Use at least 90% alcohol, and be prepared to use a lot. That looks like easily a pint job, maybe two. Probably need the same amount of ISO as well.

mnem
*sizzling beef for dinner*

[Specmaster]

What about removing the pcb from the main board, unsoldering the tin screening can and immersing the tuner in isopropyl alcohol and scrubbing it gently with a toothbrush or even placing in a ultrasonic cleaner, covering it with isopropyl alcohol and giving it a few sessions in til the alcohol remains clear?

[bd139]

I’m very surprised it works at all.

What mnementh said then.

It may not work after you’ve cleaned it though.

[Specmaster]

I know, I couldn't believe it myself when I saw it but it does work. I took the overall cover off when I got home (been to RAF Mildenhall all day photographing some Ospreys and KC135's etc.) to check the unit for any obvious damage before powering it up for testing and everything worked, including the DAB tuner, tuned in all the stations perfectly. The unit has a loss of audio one channel and the CD player will move beyond track 1, all of which I knew about when I snagged it.

So you can imagine my surprise when I removed all of the various boards to get down to the DAB tuner which happens to a sub assembly on the main amp board to find a rust mark on the top of the screening can. Not a sign of "shed Juice" anywhere else on the entire unit. When I removed the can lid I discovered the mess inside and yet it worked?

[Neomys Sapiens]

It's a dog eat dog world. 

Odd, I thought we'd decided that it was a tiger eat alligator world?

It's a dragon eat everybody world. Move along, morsel. err, mortal. 

mnem
How do you eat a tiger...? Same as anything else; one bite at a time. But first, can you come help me let go of his tail? 

'Is here the buffet?'
asked the shrew.
'If you let me skip places,
I might skip eating you!'

[mnementh]

What about removing the pcb from the main board, unsoldering the tin screening can and immersing the tuner in isopropyl alcohol and scrubbing it gently with a toothbrush or even placing in a ultrasonic cleaner, covering it with isopropyl alcohol and giving it a few sessions in til the alcohol remains clear?

If the PCB is small enough to put in a small pan so that immersion doesn't require an ungodly quantity of alcohol, (and upon re-viewing the 2nd photo, it appears it might be) then that is definitely the better course. You should still unsolder the tin can.

My gut reaction? Your unit was rescued from the back of a junk/forgotten/abandoned car. The pattern of rust on the inside of the tin lid suggests condensation, and for a considerable time. I've seen rust like that on/in car audio gear that was left on a seat in a car (you'd be AMAZED at how often this happens in a boneyard) with the windows smashed/left open. The roof of the car protects from most of the rain; but the car seats soak up rainwater and hold it there.

mnem
Taxes... taxes... Ifni save me from my taxes...

[Cubdriver]

Seeking help from you RF guys on here, as you know, I'm more of audio guy TBH. I have trying restore a TEAC CR-H250 receiver which as AM/FM/DAB radio bands and CD/Tape and Aux audio inputs. I have got everything else working but had zero luck with the DAB section and over the weekend I was lucky enough to snag another unit that is supposed to be the same albeit with slightly lower output. This new unit has a working DAB tyner that I thought I could transplant into the defective unit, but when tore the unit down to gain access to the DAB tuner it showed massive evidence of having suffered water ingress and I attach 2 pictures which show the inside of the screening can and its cover I'm wondering if you guys can advise me the best way to clean this up before fitting it to the unit.

The new donor unit has dead audio channel and a defective CD player which I shall attack once I have the other one up and running correctly.

Do you by any chance have an ultrasonic cleaner?
(For those who somehow may not be familiar with Louis, be forewarned; he can be rather salty.)  Real instructions start at about 11:30 after some normal Louis ranting.   



-Pat

[Specmaster]

Seeking help from you RF guys on here, as you know, I'm more of audio guy TBH. I have trying restore a TEAC CR-H250 receiver which as AM/FM/DAB radio bands and CD/Tape and Aux audio inputs. I have got everything else working but had zero luck with the DAB section and over the weekend I was lucky enough to snag another unit that is supposed to be the same albeit with slightly lower output. This new unit has a working DAB tyner that I thought I could transplant into the defective unit, but when tore the unit down to gain access to the DAB tuner it showed massive evidence of having suffered water ingress and I attach 2 pictures which show the inside of the screening can and its cover I'm wondering if you guys can advise me the best way to clean this up before fitting it to the unit.

The new donor unit has dead audio channel and a defective CD player which I shall attack once I have the other one up and running correctly.

Do you by any chance have an ultrasonic cleaner?
(For those who somehow may not be familiar with Louis, be forewarned; he can be rather salty.)  Real instructions start at about 11:30 after some normal Louis ranting.   



-Pat

I do have a ultrasonic cleaner that was purchased for jewelery cleaning etc but it has a dish IIRC that might just be large enough to do a pcb of similar size. I seem remember popping DVDs in it before. Thought process is that even if I cannot lay it flat, but could hopefully immerse half of it, I could clean it in 2 goes?

I was thinking that if it will take it (once I find the cleaner that is) would warm soapy water be OK for the 1st wash, followed by isopobyal and a through drying out?

[mnementh]

Scrub with alcohol first. If you can't completely immerse, treat it as as extra measure, not your primary cleaning method.

Don't use any foaming detergent like dish soap; it will foam even against tiny bubbles of air trapped on the part, and those areas will get no cleaning at all. If you have nothing else to use Windex will work okay, provided you rinse immediately with distilled water to neutralize the ammonia.

Immerse in a shallow pan of alcohol again after all that for several minutes per side to displace water from under parts.

Dry with warm air; heat with hair dryer if you're brave. Wear a glove on the hand holding the part just in case your hair dryer spits out a bit of smoldering lint and the alcohol lights up; check temp of the board frequently. If it's just too hot to hold with a bare hand, and you can't see any liquid, that's just about right. If you start to smell hot phenol, probably a bit too hot. Put the hair dryer down and slowly back away.

If yours doesn't have heat, and isn't an all stainless post-apocalyptic-medical-looking monstrosity like the one Louis has, it's a toy gimmick POS made to sell to Joe/Josephine Dumbfuck for cleaning their jewelry. Even the little ones look like this.  The toy ones are deliberately made with weak-sauce to keep The Dumbfucks  from destroying "priceless family heirlooms" and litigating.

There are two reasons you need a basket:

A) Because the cleaner is designed around the resonant mass of the liquid and tank, any solid mass touching the tank will alter that resonant mass, decreasing the effectiveness of the cleaning, and direct contact can cause damage to the part, even breaking components loose. This is the "skull-fucked" state Louis is talking about.

2) Unless you have a really expensive unit with recirculating/filtered solvent, most of the crap that breaks loose will settle to the bottom. You want your part suspended above that.

Cheers,

mnem
Oy gevalt; my taxes. 

[bd139]

Yeah my sister bought one of the Jewellery ones. Didn't do a damn thing. The fittings on the cheap ones also rust before you even buy them. Proper stainless ones aren't cheap. Worth looking out for a "Rotring sonic cleaner". Designed for cleaning technical pens but they work on small loads very well. I have no idea where the hell mine is though. Might even be at my mother's house still.

When I'm doing SMD boards now, What I do is lame as feck and probably stupid and dangerous. I pour isopropyl on the board over the sink, scrub with a toothbrush and rinse with distilled water. This happens three times. Then it goes on a bit of kitchen towel and gets left on a radiator until it's dry.

Isopropyl is the big ass cans from RS and the distilled water was cheap shit from Halfords up the road from me.

[Specmaster]

My cleaner came from that well known shop Lidl, stainless bowl, in a plastic case with a plastic basket and is not one of those stupid little cheap arse jewellery cleaners, although it is sold as that but it's so much more capable and has a time upto 10 mins. and heats the bath as well so the items get a hot wash. Its large enough to take 3 or 4 of these tuners at a time, approx 150mm x 120mm at a guess.

Gave it 3 goes at 10 mins in distilled water, scrubbing at the end of each one, then replaced the water for Isopropyl and repeated 3 more times and it was pretty warm at the end of it.

Blow Dried using hairdryer and will now leave it to sit in open air while I pack up my TDS210 and take it the post office so Ebay can do their bit on the Global Shipping Program and then I'll refit this to the stereo and try it.

Attached are before and after photos.   

[bd139]

That looks pretty excellent actually. A miracle perhaps!