Just updated the input sockets on my VTVM as the original ones were designed to suit the very short Heathkit plugs and if using leads fitted with standard 4mm banana plugs then it leaves approx 6mm of exposed plug, not an ideal situation. Had a good look at the clearances between the rear enclose and the front bezel and decided that there was just sufficient room to go the whole hog and update to accept modern safety shrouded plugs so thats now perfectly feasible to use the same leads as you would with any decent bench or handheld meter, no compromises there.
I also (previously) had decided to make my meter more AC measurement friendly in terms of its safety as it was originally designed to have the common connected to the chassis and the chassis is not earthed, this meant that if the probes were connected to any AC voltages that were ground referenced there was always the risk of the entire chassis and case being accidentally connected to live and therefore hazardous. I removed all internal connections to the chassis and connected them together to form a wired common within the meter but the DC jack by its very nature was automatically ground connected and needed to be bonded to the common so this had to go. In its place I have fitted an LED indicator wired across the heater supply in the same fashion as the original indicator behind the meter glass was.
The 1M resistor that was in the DC probe tip was transposed to the function switch and is switched in when the DC function is selected so now the whole meter can be used as if it was a modern meter with the same leads being used throughout without the need to swap leads over to measure DC volts and resistance and then change again for AC volts. I have learned today that positioning the 1M resistor inside the meter may affect the tuning of "IF" circuits while measuring DC volts in parts of a radio. Personally I can't say that I have ever noticed this before when I have used a normal multimeter for this purpose but perhaps it is more noticeable on some radios, like ham radios as opposed to normal domestic broadcast radios, I don't know, I not as knowledgeable on these things as others are.
One other modification I have done, this been posted before, so no great detail here, but I have installed a battery eliminator, driven of the heater supply and regulated to 1.6V so now the meter can sit on the shelf for years and no worries about the battery leaking, so that for me is a major advantage. Next to do on this to swap out the 2 core lead for 3 core so the whole meter will be perfectly safe to use so in the event of any problem occuring inside, the cause will safely dump it earth and case the RCD to trip and or the MCB and plug fuse to operate and break the supply.