Having used both of my T12 solder sets, I can confidently say that my favourite is the Quicko, it has the best set of options in the menu system and they are all quite intuitive to use with the exception of number 8 which reads "Battery Guard" presumably it did something naughty and needed to be incarcerated?
It gives you the ability to select a voltage between 10v and 24v. Seeing as these all come without a manual it is useful if you're powering the iron from batteries maybe to switch the set off if the voltage falls below a pre-set value?
Here is a list of the various menu options on each of the controllers:
Quicko Blue OLD controller (branded Hakko)
1 Calibration 1 Temperature Adjust
2 Auto Sleep 2 Wake Set
3 Auto Poweroff 3 Standby
4 Boost Duration 4 Sleep
5 Boost Degree 5 Boost Temp
6 Wakeup Method 6 Boost Time
7 Buzzer Switch 7 Buzzer
8 Battery Guard 8 Init
9 Firmware
A Factory Reset
There is a more complete set of options on the Quicko and the control is more logical in as much as when you get to either 1 or A you stop scrolling to change menu option you scroll the reverse direction, whereas on the Hakko, it's a endless loop. Standby on the Hakko is the same as sleep on the Quicko where both irons go 150C and the moment you pick the irons up they switch back to the last set temp ready for soldering literally in mere seconds.
It therefore follows that the Auto Poweroff on the Quicko equates to Sleep on the Hakko and here there is subtle difference, once in this mode, picking up the iron on the Quicko switches it back on again and withing seconds you be soldering. The Hakko though really does mean OFF and just picking up the iron does nothing, to wake it up again you need to give the encoder a quick press and its switches back on again and is ready for use in seconds. This may or may not be a useful feature for you but there is no way of changing it on the Hakko. On the Quicko, you can disable the handle motion detector so it will only respond to the encoder being pressed, but that also deactivate the motion sensor in the sleep mode.
Menu option 1 on them both is where you can adjust the actual temperature at the tip if you have a suitable thermocouple or a Hakko 191 to use. Number 8 on the Hakko whatever setting you store (0- or 1) it never changes from the default which is 0?
To get into the menu mode you need to press and hold the encoder for 2 seconds. In normal mode a quick press of the encoder invokes different responses, Quicko you get the instant boosted temperature but Hakko puts in standby mode. A slightly longer press on the Quicko puts it into Poweroff mode. Double press on the Hakko invokes Boost mode.
The Quicko makes more use of the buzzer, for instance all the time when in boost mode it emits short bursts followed by a longer tone at the end of the boost period which I find reassuring so you don’t need to look at the display to affirm that you’re in boost mode.
On switching on, the Quicko emits a longer beep and the screen springs to life and displays “T12 Soldering Iron Station” briefly and switches to the normal display with the top line in yellow, top left shows the set temp and top right shows the amount of power being used in terms of percentage points. Centre line has a larger font and shows current tip temp in blue and the bottom line is also blue and bottom left shows psu output in volts while bottom right shows current internal temp of the case, any change in status is shown the top left corner in reverse contrast.
The Hakko display on switch ON there is delay and then a quick beep on the buzzer and the display springs to life and follows largely the same format as the Quicko except for the following changes, top right is the internal temperature bottom right shows 3.30V and I have no idea what is, it does not change. When heating up from cold or a standby mode, the unit gives a little beep as it reaches the set temp.
When soldering there is nothing to choose between them, they are both very confident at soldering, although I have noticed on the odd occasion with the 9051 handle a faint crackling can be heard like the tip is not making good contact with the handle connections, something I have not experienced when using the 907 handle which has really big contacts in the handle but the contacts on the 9501 are not visible so they may not be as beefy.
I do like the feel of the 9501, it provides greater control of the tip but if the crackling continues I may consider using the 907 and see if it cures it.
Which one would I recommend to anyone, without a moment’s hesitation it would be the Quicko, it just seems to be the more balanced setup and the controller does in my opinion play a big part in user satisfaction, plus the Quicko controller uses plug and sockets for its connections to the iron socket so is easier to both wire up and also replace if needed at any point.
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