Hmm, the monitor I was given was showing signs of the "2 seconds to black syndrome" but testing today connected to my computer revealed that was not the case at all. With no input it did indeed just do a quick flash and drop into standby mode. with an input it no longer did that and the screen lit up a dull grey and the brilliance buttons function normally so I can get the whole screen to go a slightly brighter shad of grey.
No image on the screen however but at least it is able to detect that it is receiving an input and keep the backlight switched on, so I think its worthy of further investigation, I might just stumble across something, who knows.
For those who are interested it is a Crossover 30Q5 PRO 2560 x 1600 pixels IPS screen and the panel itself is the same one as used by Apple in their "Cinema" display and goes for £1,100 so is really capable of some stunning displays if I can get it working again. There is precious little information about on line as it a Korean product.
These are a Korean made "Bottom rung" niche market monitor made specifically to leverage the mid-side LG IPS displays into the $350-450 market niche. LOTS of variables here in this market segment; you have to pay extra for a "zero dead pixels" guarantee, and as you've found out, manufacturer service is vaporware.
What you're describing is high probability to be either a video processor or switcher IC fault (mainboard) or a T-con board (usually attached directly to the panel, between the panel and the LVDS cable to the mainboard). The T-Con and the panel are USUALLY sold as a matched pair; as in the T-Con is designed and firmware-specific to the particular panel. In many cases, even different product runs of the same panel will require a differently calibrated T-Con.
Fortunately, as the T-con is produced this way, you MAY be able to find a generic part by the LG Part no that will work most of the time but may have inaccurate color reproduction; in many cases these are pretty cheap and well-worth taking a gamble on resurrecting your screen.
Some screens may have an LED Driver between the mainboard and T-Con; this processes the LVDS signal to control the LED backlighting zones for dynamic contrast. It is usually a go/no-go part, but can kill all picture to the screen as well.
In other news: OOOPS!
Exploded a tiny watch-cell size rechargeable battery trying to solder leads to it; I knew it was a risk, but took a chance anyways. Had to go decontaminate my skin and workbench and change clothes... now trying to decide if this camera is worth scrounging up a replacement (or actually getting off my ass and making the tab-welder I've been meaning to do for like... ever). I can probably live with having to reset the clock/calendar every time I swap batteries, but now it's started flashing the dread E:91:01 error, indicating a faulty flash circuit.
Little DSC-W30 has been a great workhorse for over a decade and still takes some of the best macro pics of any point & click I've ever owned; it's almost like an old friend...
mnem
*Tinker-ily*