Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Mr. Scram]

If she doesnt look like Miranda Kerr after that amount of money then it was a scam. 

Oh, I bet that comparison will go down well. "You're not even as hot as [name]!" Yes, that'll be quality time.

[bd139]

Yeah. The whole irony of it is she's actually a hairdresser but doesn't charger herself out for that much

If you really want to put yourself in the doghouse, make a comparison of the value of the haircut versus the equipment in about two months' time. Maybe even put both on eBay to drive the point home.

Good idea. The scope is likely to end up on ebay in a few weeks. I need it to compare to my DS1054Z because the damn thing is so noisy (electrically speaking). That'll go for at least twice what I paid for it. The power supply, I'm keeping, so I'll set a calendar entry for ten years' time and say "Remember that haircut and that power supply" 

[Specmaster]

Ha ha, you guys crack me up  Well the answer is simple, tell her that her haircut was really extravagant and explain that for that much money you could get what, let me see, I could have 23 haircuts, thats about 3 years worth and as Mr Scram said, your meter still has a resale value, if you sold it minutes after buying it, you'd still get a reasonable price for it but her haircut? Diddley Squat is what she'd get for it 

Buying that meter was really expensive, the cut alone was roughly the cost of the meter to begin with so all up its cost you more than double its cost  All that lovely TEA stuff that will have to go to someone else as a result 

[bd139]

Fight fire with fire you see. eBay watch list full of things suddenly. And why? Because they're broken and I clearly will have to repair and sell them to pay for the hair cut 

[Specmaster]

I reckon your daughters might want to get in on the act and have their hair done as well, so that will be even more evenings beavering away at your bench to keep your ladies in haircuts   

[bd139]

That’s where it falls over because SWMBO does their hair

[Specmaster]

You mean DID...

[mnementh]

Nice, but couldn't you have made the holes suitable for new posts instead of ordering new plates?

Nope, I only have a drill and a drill stand to use. So I can only drill simple round holes.
The HP/Agilent look-alike binding posts have a flattened side to prevent twisting them. And that as a negative form can only be made with a mill but not a drill.
And I don't have the time nor enough patience to file them into the form needed by hand. 

ZOMG!!! You don't have a DREMEL and bits for hand millwork?!?

A 2mm Diamond point or 1.5mm carbide cutter will get you that "D" shape to within a few thousandths and quicker than it takes to finish your coffee.

This is an investment you will NOT regret. EVER. I have both corded and cordless; they are pretty much a required tool in my RC hobby. You can spend a fortune on bits and such buying DREMEL branded; you'll get a LOT more bang for your buck buying one of the the cheapo mega-assortments available this holiday time of year and around Father's Day.

This is a smallish one; I've bought kits with 400 pieces (Yes, most of the count is sanding discs and drums - but you really use them once you see what they can do) for $15. It'll get you a few Diamond bits and a good selection of mandrels and collets to go with the drill bits in the kit. If you have some "Homeowner Hell" or similar place nearby look there, as well as the "Hardware & Paint" section of any large WalMart-type department store. The bigger kits will have a selection of burrs and saws and fine thin emery wheels as well.

https://www.harborfreight.com/276-Pc-Rotary-Tool-Accessory-Set-62440.html

A staple in my toolbox is these for fine work in glass and steel; If you buy from Dremel you'll spend this much on a single bit. Yes they are better, but NOT 20 times better.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Diamond-Point-Rotary-Bit-Set-20-Pc-69653.html

And for fine work in plastic and soft metal like Al, these are a must.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-Pc-Carbide-Rotary-Micro-Bit-Assorted-Set-62379.html


If you have a Horror Fraught nearby, they are the place to go for consumables like these, hands-down. Yes, the name brand ones are usually better overall and last longer, but they typically cost 10x as much and you just can't get 10x the use out of them.


I HAVE had a couple of their $25 clone Dremel motors in hand; they have decent power, but they are not as smooth-running nor is the speed adjustment as granular as with the real Dremel. I still wouldn't be afraid to buy one as a gift or for occasional use, however.


Cheers,


mnem
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."

[HalFET]

There we go, brass plate design done. I'll etch it into a piece of brass whenever I find some scrap piece again in my drawers 

[URI]

Nice, but couldn't you have made the holes suitable for new posts instead of ordering new plates?

Nope, I only have a drill and a drill stand to use. So I can only drill simple round holes.
The HP/Agilent look-alike binding posts have a flattened side to prevent twisting them. And that as a negative form can only be made with a mill but not a drill.
And I don't have the time nor enough patience to file them into the form needed by hand. 

ZOMG!!! You don't have a DREMEL and bits for hand millwork?!?

A 2mm Diamond point or 1.5mm carbide cutter will get you that "D" shape to within a few thousandths and quicker than it takes to finish your coffee.

First, you must have gifted hands that I don't have.
Second, when I drink coffee I mostly use instant coffee. Your equation doesn't solve with me.   

On the other hand I'm an engineer.
My profession is breaking problems down to pieces that can be solved.
Sometimes I have to create problems first to solve them afterwards. 

Ok back to my problem:
I have machine milled front plates with holes for binding posts at exact positions.
The holes don't fit the binding posts I now want to fit in.
I only have a drill and a drill stand to use.
With the drill I can widen the holes to the needed diameter.
Because the drill centers automatically I will be able to conserve the production accuracy nearly.
Solved. 

Leaves me with the problem of the twist-stop shaped holes.
Hmm. (*thinking*)

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

I'll go for that. It'll be much cheaper than ordering three new front plates and therefore will be saving at least some money for spending on new gear.   

Thank you for challenging me.   

[WastelandTek]

time for an upgrade

[URI]

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

One morning later. Note to myself: It's not going to work this way.

The binding posts can be mounted in material of 4-5mm thickness max. My idea results in a stack of plates that's clearly out of range. 

I think I'll change my mounting scheme back to the original idea of using the four stud-bolts mounted on the backside of my front plate to hold it. Those bolts are long enough.
I'll stick to the filling plate with twist-stop holes.
Have to cut holes in the backside mounting plate then for the nuts of the binding posts to go through: My front plate is 3mm plus 1.5mm filling plate sums up to 4.5mm. That should work.

[Specmaster]

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

One morning later. Note to myself: It's not going to work this way.

The binding posts can be mounted in material of 4-5mm thickness max. My idea results in a stack of plates that's clearly out of range. 

I think I'll change my mounting scheme back to the original idea of using the four stud-bolts mounted on the backside of my front plate to hold it. Those bolts are long enough.
I'll stick to the filling plate with twist-stop holes.
Have to cut holes in the backside mounting plate then for the nuts of the binding posts to go through: My front plate is 3mm plus 1.5mm filling plate sums up to 4.5mm. That should work.

That's better, although I still doubt that when fitted and tightened the posts are not going to twist so a standard hole will suffice. Most posts are round without any problems of their stayablity when connecting cables. Personally I wouldn't bother with the flats at all.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

[URI]

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

One morning later. Note to myself: It's not going to work this way.

The binding posts can be mounted in material of 4-5mm thickness max. My idea results in a stack of plates that's clearly out of range. 

I think I'll change my mounting scheme back to the original idea of using the four stud-bolts mounted on the backside of my front plate to hold it. Those bolts are long enough.
I'll stick to the filling plate with twist-stop holes.
Have to cut holes in the backside mounting plate then for the nuts of the binding posts to go through: My front plate is 3mm plus 1.5mm filling plate sums up to 4.5mm. That should work.

That's better, although I still doubt that when fitted and tightened the posts are not going to twist so a standard hole will suffice. Most posts are round without any problems of their stayablity when connecting cables. Personally I wouldn't bother with the flats at all.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I agree with you concerning the push/pull movement using 4mm plugs.

Have you considered binding posts used to clamp e.g. a blank copper wire under the cap that can be used as a nut?
That use puts torque on the binding post. If the binding post had a metal thread to fasten it with a nut and a counter nut I would perfectly be with you -you could put so much force in it that it most likely would never get loose again just from being used that way.

The HP/Agilent look-alikes just have a plastic thread on their body and one metal nut.
I doubt that without twist lock the nut will never get loose. I just want to avoid that.

[bd139]

They do actually come loose annoyingly. All of them. The robustness of the user interface, as with anywhere, depends on the quality of the user.

[Specmaster]

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

One morning later. Note to myself: It's not going to work this way.

The binding posts can be mounted in material of 4-5mm thickness max. My idea results in a stack of plates that's clearly out of range. 

I think I'll change my mounting scheme back to the original idea of using the four stud-bolts mounted on the backside of my front plate to hold it. Those bolts are long enough.
I'll stick to the filling plate with twist-stop holes.
Have to cut holes in the backside mounting plate then for the nuts of the binding posts to go through: My front plate is 3mm plus 1.5mm filling plate sums up to 4.5mm. That should work.

That's better, although I still doubt that when fitted and tightened the posts are not going to twist so a standard hole will suffice. Most posts are round without any problems of their stayablity when connecting cables. Personally I wouldn't bother with the flats at all.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I agree with you concerning the push/pull movement using 4mm plugs.

Have you considered binding posts used to clamp e.g. a blank copper wire under the cap that can be used as a nut?
That use puts torque on the binding post. If the binding post had a metal thread to fasten it with a nut and a counter nut I would perfectly be with you -you could put so much force in it that it most likely would never get loose again just from being used that way.

The HP/Agilent look-alikes just have a plastic thread on their body and one metal nut.
I doubt that without twist lock the nut will never get loose. I just want to avoid that.

I have never seen a post with plastic threads on them, even some cheap one hung low ones I purchased use a metal insert that is threaded on ends so the plastic cover nut and the metal retaining nuts, all screw onto the same "bolt" hence they attach securely.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

[ChrisLX200]

Ah. Plastic threaded body. Yes I've seen that type and avoid them like the plague. You could add a drop of Loctite 638 retaining compound under the outer ferrule and that will hold it in place. It could still be loosened with modest heat from a heat gun without causing damage (probably - but who cares so long as you have spares if the need to change it should arise). If I really had to make a hole to suit I would make a suitable broach from hardened silver steel but I realise that is no solution for you, it's just an alternative to those suggestions posted so far.

[bd139]

Yay new power supply arrived from SGLabs.it. comes with a printed manual and CD and UK mains cable and works perfectly. Good job

[iainwhite]

Is that your new Keysight DMM cuddling your power supply?

[Specmaster]

Nice unit and pretty good calibration to, now to put it to work on that earning project eh? 

speaking of calibration, my voltage reference arrived today and I'm very pleased to report that my Fluke 8505A is bang on the money as is my Philips PM2521 and also the HP3466A and the Keithly 160 (hmm nixies) and really surprisingly the cheap old chinese meters ADM08A (manual range) are also pretty good being only .001v out

[bd139]

Yes indeed

That's good news all round. What voltage reference did you purchase out of interest?

[Specmaster]

I got a AD584-M from an Ebay seller.

[mnementh]

Ahh:
I could use a filling piece between my front plate and a backside mounting plate to fill the thickness of the power supplies front plate that is 4mm. Then I could mount the binding posts not only on my front plate but could conjoin my front plate, the filling piece and the backside mounting plate with the binding posts.

My front plate has a step of 1.5mm into the power supplies front plate.
4mm-1.5mm=2.5mm. I need a filling plate of 2mm material I don't have yet.
Ok. Solution:
I'll simply design (and order) three simple plates made of plastic or pertinax with machine milled twist-stop holes.
My front plates drove the price because of the material, the labelling and the mounting bolts. The filling piece will be much cheaper but will perfectly do the twist ...stop.   

One morning later. Note to myself: It's not going to work this way.

The binding posts can be mounted in material of 4-5mm thickness max. My idea results in a stack of plates that's clearly out of range. 

I think I'll change my mounting scheme back to the original idea of using the four stud-bolts mounted on the backside of my front plate to hold it. Those bolts are long enough.
I'll stick to the filling plate with twist-stop holes.
Have to cut holes in the backside mounting plate then for the nuts of the binding posts to go through: My front plate is 3mm plus 1.5mm filling plate sums up to 4.5mm. That should work.

That's better, although I still doubt that when fitted and tightened the posts are not going to twist so a standard hole will suffice. Most posts are round without any problems of their stayablity when connecting cables. Personally I wouldn't bother with the flats at all.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I agree with you concerning the push/pull movement using 4mm plugs.

Have you considered binding posts used to clamp e.g. a blank copper wire under the cap that can be used as a nut?
That use puts torque on the binding post. If the binding post had a metal thread to fasten it with a nut and a counter nut I would perfectly be with you -you could put so much force in it that it most likely would never get loose again just from being used that way.

The HP/Agilent look-alikes just have a plastic thread on their body and one metal nut.
I doubt that without twist lock the nut will never get loose. I just want to avoid that.

Hmmm... I think I see your problem better now; particularly the issue of weak plastic threads. Either you need other tools as I suggested or to look for more suitable, but similar binding posts.

Okay... how about this: You have a mini drill press in your setup; so repetitive small drillings should be no problem. I suggest making backing plate(s) of ~1-2mm metal (such aluminum is readily available from any Homeowner Hell type hardware store in their specialty bins), which you can hand-fab the D-shaped holes into pretty easily even with your basic tool set. Make the plates it so they span at least two posts at a time, which by nature will anchor them against applied torque.

This will allow you to preserve the look of your pristine aluminum extrusion, while still providing the torque resistance you desire.

I've made similar plates where I fold the metal to make the flat for more contact area against the torsional force, but that requires that you allow for the thickness of the metal when drilling/cutting the basic shape and is a hand-fab skill you need some experience to manage.


Cheers,

mnem
I made this!

[mnementh]

I got a AD584-M from an Ebay seller.

I have one of these on the way from an eBay seller; it supposedly has the better-spec AD584LH and was ~US$8 total. It's #2 in Mark Hennesy's article on these cheap reference boards. We'll see what actually arrives. 


I like the triple output pins, and the dual jumpers for voltage selection, and the oddball battery doesn't bother me in the least as I expect to power it using any of dozens of 4S LiPo packs I have on my bench. I may install a LiPo low-voltage alarm just for safety's sake, however.

Supposed to be any time now as I paid for ePacket shipping; but my experience with fleaBay vendors is that they often use ePacket incorrectly and it winds up instead traveling as China Post for a month before it actually gets to a USPS carrier. 

mnem
I can haz jooce now?

[Specmaster]

I got a AD584-M from an Ebay seller.

I have one of these on the way from an eBay seller; it supposedly has the better-spec AD584LH and was ~US$8 total. It's #2 in Mark Hennesy's article on these cheap reference boards. We'll see what actually arrives. 


I like the triple output pins, and the dual jumpers for voltage selection, and the oddball battery doesn't bother me in the least as I expect to power it using any of dozens of 4S LiPo packs I have on my bench. I may install a LiPo low-voltage alarm just for safety's sake, however.

Supposed to be any time now as I paid for ePacket shipping; but my experience with fleaBay vendors is that they often use ePacket incorrectly and it winds up instead traveling as China Post for a month before it actually gets to a USPS carrier. 

mnem
I can haz jooce now?

The one I got was a AD854KH which is the more accurate of the chips and as is normal for chinese stuff it arrived with no instructions and the hole in the side where the micro usb plug goes to charge it up was not in the right place so I had dismantle it to enlarge the hole with a file, otherwise it seems fine.