ON THE BENCH TONIGHT: Temp PSU for 32in Cinema DisplayToday's been a helluva day; after losing a hour sleep to DST
(invented by some crusty old bureaucrat who cut one end off his blanket and sewed it to the other end to make the blanket longer...
), I put in a solid 10 hours hoeing out garage and shed to make garage usable space and to move machinery/shift gears from snow-removal mode to lawn-care mode. Took only enough time off to eat and pop handfuls of Ibuprofens...
![Phew :phew:](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/phew.gif)
Anyhoo... so after it's all done, I sit down to relax with dinner and check in here and... that damned Cinema display is fucking up again, only this time the PSU brick is doing the tick-tick failure mode. FML...
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439458;image)
So I bring the thing down to the dwagon-cave and pop it apart again; but for the life of me, I can't figure out what holds the aluminum heatsink on the
other side to the inner plate all the semis are attached to. This means that even if I did find some questionable caps, I'd have no way of getting them in/out to replace them.
I decided that rather than go all Samsonite Gorilla on the damn thing getting it apart, maybe the better idea would be to try a different PSU altogether, just to see if the problem was in the PSU or the display.
Sadly, the big Lite-On brick I was thinking of was 20V/11A out rather than 22V/10A like I thought, and it simply would not power up connected to the Cinema Display which brick is rated 24.5V/6.4A, (I suspected too high surge current... so not promising) so I had to drop back & punt.
I did toy with the idea of modding one of those 750W HP server PSUs so I could make a 24V stack... but I've done it before and I know that doing it even marginally safely is a lot more assache than I was up for after the day I'd had. Also, knowing these PSUs, if there is something wrong in the display itself causing the tick-tick fail, it's
not going to shut down on short protection, it's just gonna keep pumping current up to ~120% of rated capacity, which in this case is 80-ish amps.
![Scared :scared:](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/scared.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439464;image)
So... I decided to just make the connector from the Apple power brick into a pigtail, and put that on the 24V/15A PSU from one of my 3DPrinters. It took about 5 minutes to get it out, so already a couple hours ahead.
![ThumbsUp :-+](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/icon_smile_thumbsup.gif)
A quick rummage in my quadcopter building stuffs yielded some nice 12ga silicone wires the perfect length; a bit overkill, but as this is a temporary fix, I'll always be able to reclaim them for their original purpose. I definitely don't need to worry aboot voltage drop...
![Grin ;D](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439470;image)
Oh, it feels
sooo goood having my MetCal back; need to tin 12ga wires and all you can lay paws on is a 1.2mm chisel tip...? No problem...
![Laughing :-DD](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/smiley_laughing.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439476;image)
Soldering those fat wires down is just as easy; a dab of rosin and
BAMMM! smoky joy.
![Wink ;)](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439482;image)
Took a moment to blow the PSU out (did I mention I am actually able to get to my air compressor in the garage now...?
![Evil >:D](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/evil.gif)
); it has been powering a 3D Printer for 2 years, so it's past due. Noticed some primo Chinglish on the warranty seal...
![Shocked :o](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/shocked.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439488;image)
Not a finished product by far; this is quick & dirty just to git 'er done. Bench test showed it has no problem powering up with the Cinema Display connected; so I adjusted the output to 24.5V as per the rating of the original PSU brick.
Just to make Zucca and mansaxel happy, I did at least immobilize both cords with a quick zip-tie so no wire-wiggle-induced bare conductors peeking out from under the terminal strip.
![Wink ;)](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
But
NO! I did not terminate anything; these screw terminals are designed for bare wires, DAMMITT! Worse, just a few wraps of green tape to keep the
angry pixies going where they're aspoda go.
THE HORROR!!! ![Evil >:D](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/evil.gif)
![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1439494;image)
These LED Lighting PSUs tend to be a bit noisy; even ones like this with thermal fan control. So for the sake of being able to hear if there's any tick-tick going on inside the Cinema Display, it had to go under the desk.
For now, the display appears to power up without issue; no funny noises or smells, just that lovely 32-in near-IPS screen.
![](https://filedn.com/lEDSGUXnO7mp9lWR3BbARrR/Emoticons/evilplan.gif)
We'll see how it holds up, and maybe shop a generic power brick if it does.
![ThumbsUp :-+](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/icon_smile_thumbsup.gif)
Or if I get to wanting that 3D printer back online...
![Laughing :-DD](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/smiley_laughing.gif)
mnem
I am gonna be sore in the mornin'... ![](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=998571;image)