Two days ago when I got the multimeter I opened a topic but this teardown earns its own topic because of the issues I came across, if moderators want to merge it just let me know so I can post in there.
We seen Extech RC200 fail and Extech EX505 crappy pcb fix in Dave’s videos, you think they have learned from their mistakes, but my meter is made later in same year when Dave made his reviews and my Extech EX570 have also major issues.
I was already little bit disappointed with the update speed of the Extech, but after seeing this, I won’t buy any other Extech anymore. I mean this meter is not that cheap it sells between 275 and 300 euro’s here and around 250 us dollars in the states, you would expect at least it is save and good build, from outside it looks really good but inside it is just crap and not worth the money you pay for.
I will try to explain what I have seen before each picture, I hope pictures are clear enough to see what’s happening.
The front:
The back with battery compartment:
Battery door screws are metal threaded, so far it’s going good:
Extra rubber sealing, since its IP64 splash water and dust proof. The infrared housing is holded together with the housing which can give trouble when you drop the meter:
Enough input protection, again so far so good:
All bits taken apart, the housing screws are self tappers with a thick o ring and rubbers, two receiving sides of the housing for the screws where already dull when I was taking it apart:
The front side with input protection again, still looking good:
Till you take a closer look and here starts the crap, soldering on this meter is overall BAD, I had to check a lot soldering and re-solder again, also selector switch is already damaging the pcb and the selector lanes after a while this will give problems:
And the biggest problem! When I took off the self locking nut from the mili ampere lead input the small plate just fall of because it was not soldered properly! I mean come on, this is one of the crucial parts of the meter specially where current is being drawn, and I can’t imagine what will happen if it was on the 10A side when you measure high current…
Ceramic fuses, the pcb is from end 2010:
I don’t know what they call this at Extech when they where soldering the shunt, but I call it CRAP:
Wires all over the place:
Wires again, this time for the IR and thermometer, they could solve this with PCB connectors I guess:
The IR and the thermometer module:
The IR has a rubber protector, it can be lost easily a small rubber lead attached to the housing would help:
I am
REALLY disappointed with Extech and like I said I won’t be buying any Extech, from this brand I was expecting a lot more professional build multimeter.