SURPEER AV4 True RMS 4.5 Digit Multimeter

[rsjsouza]

I saw that... Got one just out of curiosity.

[Camicia]

The website is not online anymore =/ http://www.surpeer.com/product/multimeter/

[rsjsouza]

The server is back online, although the product selection seems quite limited (from here I only see a couple of products, the multimeter is not there). I received the meter, which is quite nice if you forget its bugs (peak and rel buttons only work in very limited ranges) and can live with the slow bargraph. It is also not forgiving: applying a higher voltage to the non-volt ranges make the meter go crazy.

On the other hand, it is very well built, has a large screen and the high count is quite handy for a meter on its class.

[Specmaster]

The website no longer lists the meter though.

[Kosmic]

The website is kind of generic though. Look at the "about us" page. Look like they had a problem.

[GregDunn]

I bought one of these as well.  It seems reasonably well made and all the functions appear to be accurate enough for typical bench use.  I've spent more for less...

[Camicia]

Price went up $2 

The board looks like has some extra flux that was not cleaned: https://lygte-info.dk/pic/DMM-Other/Zeast%20282/DSC_2358a.jpg
In another picture I have, it seemed that something that was supposed to be in CAL2 ( around 9V- ) exploded - probably just a dirty dry flux puddle.

This is a video review. The guy is very enthusiastic:

 

This is a less enthusiastic review: http://testmeterpro.com/surpeer-multimeter-av4/
Definitely it is  the same hardware of the Zeast 282 in the review that was already mentioned: https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMZeast282%20UK.html

Not sure what to think... it seems that people look at the price to judge if a multimeter is good or "cheap".
 

[GregDunn]

Not sure what to think... it seems that people look at the price to judge if a multimeter is good or "cheap".

I just turn it on and use it.  I'm not sure the extra digit of resolution is accurate, but it tracks my expensive meters well enough and if it dies I've got my $20 worth already.

[graybeard]

I have two of them.  There are many issues, but for the price I am happy.

All of the ranges I have tested have been well within their specified accuracy, but I have not evaluated the frequency response or accuracy of the rms converter yet. I will update this when I do. The stated frequency range of 40-200 Hz is only usable for AC power waveforms, not audio. When I checked the AC response of my units they worked up to almost 1000 Hz.

The PEAK( min/max) and REL(delta) buttons do not work on any range.

The APO (automatic power off) function is on by default. To turn off the APO function hold down the HOLD button while turning the meter on, not the SELECT button as the Chinglish instructions state.

The meter does appear to have a couple of input protection diodes and a tiny varistor, but the protection circuitry seems to be inadequate for use on power lines. However for most other uses it seems fine.  I have used it opn tube gear with voltages up to 800V without issue.

The bar graph although marked with 100 small segments is only 20 sections bar graph, each section being 5 marked segments. The numbers on the bar graph 0, 5, 10, & 20 correspond to the bar graph sections.

The sound response of the continuity check function seems instantaneous, even though the meter indication is much slower.

The temperature on mine reads high; 4ºC at 0ºC and 102ºC at 100ºC.  I suspect the error is in the metals of the banana plugs and jacks since small computational changes can change contact potential.

There is no specification for input impedance, so I will measured it:
DC Range Input Z
2V 11MEG
20V 10MEG
200V 10MEG
1000V 10MEG

AC Range Input Z
0.2V 11MEG
2V 10MEG
20V 10MEG
200V 10MEG

diode mode:
open circuit V: 3.23V
test current: 1.6mA
maximum displayed value 2.2V

continuity mode:
open circuit V: 1.0V
test current: 380uA
response seems instantaneous
The markings in the battery department are not obvious.  I marked mine with a marker pen

The NCV (non-contact voltage) function seems very sensitive.  The sensor is in the left side of the meter at about the center of the display.  There is no indication where it is.

I paid $21 for mine and I'm satisfied with the purchase.  It is now down to $16 on Amazon.

[Camicia]

The frequency measurement is supposed to go up to 20MHz according to specs: Frequency: 10Hz/100Hz/1KHz/10KHz/100KHz/1MHz/20MKHz (0.01%+3) Or at least it is what I think they meant with 20MKHz. It is the Vac measurement that decrease accuracy as the frequency increases.

The contacts could be improved golden plating the connectors. The probes could probably be plated too but it is probably better to get better one. I am just afraid that the flux is corroding them.

In this review the guy says that the REL button is not working: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3RKUH5F3V334T/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B071H8PR61
Same goes for another guy in the the youtube video's comments:

The REL function doesn't do anything on these meters, other than turn of the 'AUTO', and turn on the 'REL' indicators on the LCD. It's a FAIL, as Dave would say. Pressing the button should zero the reading and make subsequent measurements RELative to the new zero. For example, when measuring resistance, you'd short the probes together, wait for the reading stabilise, then press REL. It's not A faulty meter, I have 2, and they're both the same...

But in the https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMZeast282%20UK.html but in the Zeast 282 review seems that it was working. I wonder if the FLASH needs to be programmed differently.

Googling "vc 28ii multimeter",  that is printed on the board, brings up results for the Fluke 28II. I think this is supposed to be a clone of it.


I wonder why this has 2 chips. How are the functions divided between them?

Next to right one you can see the label "IC7 HY12P..." and according the review the complete label is HY12P65 that is one fo the well known http://www.hycontek.com/wp-content/uploads/UG-HY12S65_EN.pdf (See also DS-HY12P65-EN.pdf ). Unless it is "protected by program", the program can be dumped ( see http://www.hycontek.com/wp-content/uploads/APD-HYIDE009_EN.pdf )
The left one may be used to drive the second reading on the display.

I also wonder if the settings can be calibrated like in the AN8009 [update: it can jumping the RCAL2]

[Camicia]

Regarding:

It looks very similar to the Zeast 282 that I have looked at: http://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMZeast282%20UK.html

@HKJ Can you dump the EEPROM of the Zeast 282 and post it here? I wonder if that can be used to enable the REL button.


Also related thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/another-cheapo-multimeter-19999-count-0-05-dc-accuracy

[HKJ]

@HKJ Can you dump the EEPROM of the Zeast 282 and post it here? I wonder if that can be used to enable the REL button.

Sorry, but I do not have a ready setup to read EPROM's and the meter is somewhere in a couple of boxes filled with multimeters (I still have most of the meters I have reviewed).
I believe it would take way to much time to do it.

[indman]

@HKJ Can you dump the EEPROM of the Zeast 282 and post it here? I wonder if that can be used to enable the REL button.

Hi,guys!
EEPROM of the Hy-19E(Zeast 282) it is possible to download at this link  https://yadi.sk/d/fy7nRoX_3Lqzsf. This dump became available thanks to the review on a multimeter from the user of uncle_sem at the Russian-speaking forum https://mysku.ru/blog/china-stores/54451.html

[Camicia]

Thank you @indman. I think the EEPROM only contains the calibration values that are device specific. Without further documentation and deeper understanding of it, I think we will have to reverse engineer the firmware in the HY chip to understand if some configuration beside the calibration values are read from the EEPROM. And we need to hope that is not read protected.
In te meanwhile we could download some content of the surpeer and compare it with the Hy-19E or Zeast 282 dumps.


I also found out that if you jump RCAL2 visible in the battery compartment, you can set the Surpeer av4 in calibration mode in case you need to calibrate it with more accurate instruments. You should not do it if you do not have a more accurate instrument or you may mess up its built-in calibration. If somebody want to do it and document the calibration procedure, it would be great!

[indman]

Thank you @indman. I think the EEPROM only contains the calibration values that are device specific.

It is not absolutely right. EEProm also contains management of device selector operation modes.
Check whether the REL button very simply will work. For a start it is necessary to save surely an original dump 24C02(08), and then to program flash that option which saved uncle_sem in this chip and to check whether there will be an effect for the REL button. If this button does not work, means these settings are stored in the main HY12P chip.

[retiredcaps]

the meter is somewhere in a couple of boxes filled with multimeters (I still have most of the meters I have reviewed).

Now the above picture would be worthy of the "show us your multimeter" thread ... 

[rsjsouza]

Price went up $2 

The board looks like has some extra flux that was not cleaned: https://lygte-info.dk/pic/DMM-Other/Zeast%20282/DSC_2358a.jpg
In another picture I have, it seemed that something that was supposed to be in CAL2 ( around 9V- ) exploded - probably just a dirty dry flux puddle.

Mine had a few of those as well, but it was just a bit of dirt/grime.

This is a video review. The guy is very enthusiastic:

(...)

This is a less enthusiastic review: http://testmeterpro.com/surpeer-multimeter-av4/
Definitely it is  the same hardware of the Zeast 282 in the review that was already mentioned: https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMZeast282%20UK.html

The guy on the video is flabbergasted by the ceramic fuses and the probes... It only tells he hasn't seen a properly designed input protection before, and the probes are ok (above average).

Not sure what to think... it seems that people look at the price to judge if a multimeter is good or "cheap".

IMHO this is a lost opportunity to create a great meter. It is physically robust, the rubber jack is quite nice, the large numbers on the display are very good (although it could use a bit more contrast), the PCB seems to have very high quality (although it has almost no transient protection) and the rotary switch and the rubber buttons are well above average.

The inoperant/flawed Peak/Rel is a great disappointment, especially given the very high number of counts is quite nice for the lowest ohms and capacitors. The bargraph update rate is also very disappointing, particularly due to the fact it looks really nice and sharp. Also, the unforgiving non-volt ranges is quite troubling - voltages as low as 30V threw my meter completely off, requiring restart. The flimsy input jacks and the dismal input protection do not make justice to the quality of the PCB and the rest of the meter. 

[graybeard]

The frequency measurement is supposed to go up to 20MHz according to specs: Frequency: 10Hz/100Hz/1KHz/10KHz/100KHz/1MHz/20MKHz (0.01%+3) Or at least it is what I think they meant with 20MKHz. It is the Vac measurement that decrease accuracy as the frequency increases.

I have verified that the frequency measurement does go up to 20 MHz.   There is a loss of sensitivity as you go up, I have not characterized it.   If you use a long coax cable you should add a 50 ohm termination across the input.  At 20 Mhz a 51 Ohm carbon composition resistor across a BNC to banana adapter will work fine.

The AC measurement only works up to 1KHz, it is not reliable above 1KHz.   It works a bit higher than the 200Hz spec, but it would be foolish to use this for anything besides AC power measurements because of the limited bandwidth.

The PC board is labeled WINHY 28II Ver 7.  https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Portable-Voltage-Detector/dp/B0798MSZ5S

Interestingly enough I did a web search a couple of weeks ago on Surpeer and found they were just one of several brand names for a Chinese marketing company.  Interestingly enough another of their brand names specializes in marketing sex toys.  Unfortunately I can't remember the URL or name of the corporation.

Supeer's web site http://www.surpeer.com seems to be online again.   It has been missing for the last two months.

[Fungus]

Supeer's web site http://www.surpeer.com seems to be online again.   It has been missing for the last two months.

Maybe they read this thread. 

[Prizmatic]

4 months use on the bench so far (240v max). Hobby R/V/Current/Cap'/continuity use, It a nice feeling meter but there are problems. The connectors can be fussy with leads other than there own, also banana plugs. The yellow markings on the selector switch are near invisible in low light. The time period for the backlight is too short. Its a real pity because the measurement performance and build quality is excellent.

[cdev]

So, in order to shave 5% off the BOM price they changed it from a better than average or good meter deal to a marginal one?

[rsjsouza]

100%, cdev. The major problem I see are the various bugs. The input jacks are not terribly great, although I was able to get stable readings with other banana jacks by rotating them so any grime or grease can be removed.

I put it under my DMMCheck Plus gizmo and it gave pretty close readings, well within spec when compared to the 3458A originally used to calibrate the gizmo.

[cdev]

Maybe they have some internal conflicts going on between the engineers and bean counters and the bean counters 'won' but lost the battle to put out a decent product?

Are the jacks in question easily user replaceable?

[rsjsouza]

Maybe they have some internal conflicts going on between the engineers and bean counters and the bean counters 'won' but lost the battle to put out a decent product?

I have a few theories:
- The product was released before the firmware was thoroughly tested/validated (or it was a midnight shift product)
- The product itself is a reverse engineer job that was released just at the brink of minimum functionality
- There was a fallout between the brand and the OEM (sabotage)

Are the jacks in question easily user replaceable?

They are fairly easy to desolder, but the trick is to find higher quality ones that fit on the same place (I haven't searched)

[graybeard]

I have used mine up to 850 VDC and they both worked fine.