Actually on the U1252b I think you have to not only remove the back , but the circuit board as well because the fuses are between the face and the board.
Correct. The Agilent is more of a PITA for fuse replacement (remove rear cover, remove board assembly from front cover, flip, and then you can access the fuses).
I'd have also preferred they use AA batteries as well as easier fuse access. But you can't have everything and it be cheap.
Not that it's a budget meter, but it's not as expensive as a Fluke 287/9. So I see it as an acceptable compromise (fuses done this way by many meter manufacturers for years).
The Brymen may be different.
This was the meter I was commenting about. Sorry for the confusion.
The BM857 I have, they're available once the cover is off (older unit, so I have to do this just to change the battery). Specifically, the board is attached to the
rear cover, not the front. So once it's off, you're looking at the front of the board, and the fuses are right there. Newer versions of the BM857 have a separate battery cover, so would require the main covers to be separated (board still attached the same way). Not too bad either way, IMHO (captive screws really help; bale comes off when 2x of the screws are loosened, so I have to keep track of that).
Based on (
these pics), the BM867 & BM869 appear to be the same way as the BM857. OP just pulled the LCD/range selection board from the main board, as it's a comparison thread.
Hope this sorts things a bit.
Can you elaborate on the advantages over the U1272A that the Brymen has?
Higher counts is THE most obvious, particularly if you engage the 500,000 count mode (i.e. DCV), followed by features, such as dual temp (I have this on the U1252B, not on the BM857, which doesn't have temp at all). Useful for obtaining the temp difference on heat sinks from ambient for example in real time (less chance there's a shift in one or the other between making separate measurements).
If you're really interested, do a side-by-side spec comparison (2x browser windows or print them out), and see what's applicable to your uses.
If you've questions the spec sheet doesn't answer, just ask, as I'm a bit confused as to exactly what you're looking for.
I do realize there are such situations, such as the hold issue, so I'd ask you be as specific as possible.
There's also a couple of threads on the BM869 here in EEVBlog that could be of real use to you, as well as
here.
One feature that the U1272a has that I really like is the trigger, and auto hold feature. The Brymen requires a third hand. To me that just about justify's going with the Agilent.
If this is critical to you, then the Agilent would be the way to go.
But which one?
I really see no other advantage that the Brymen may have, unless I'm missing something.
See above as to what exactly are you looking for.
My comments have been based on a spec & features comparison, as they're not as comparable (BM869 vs. U1272A), as the BM869 would be with the U1252B (i.e. both are 50,000 count <basic mode for the BM869>). But if there's something specific, that could change matters, such as the hold feature mentioned above.
Does the Brymen come with a proof of oerformance, and a 3 warranty? I would think getting it repaired would be somewhat of a hassle as well. Please, if I'm way off base here let me know. I want to get it right this time! Just looked at a Brymen teardown, and one of the fuses is sitting right over SMD Components! Let's make it as difficult as we can shall we. I think I'm good with the Agilent U1272a.
Brymen doesn't come with a CAL cert, and they warranty it for 1 year, where as the Agilent will include the CAL, and is warranted for 3yrs. But rebranded Brymen units can change this. IIRC, Extech for example, offers a 3yr warranty. Greenlee sells them calibrated for an additional cost.
But unless you need to be able to trace it, a DMM Check+ or similar device would be something worth looking into in order to see if it's gone bonkers or not (and it's useful for any meter, no matter what make/model).
As per repair, you'd likely have to send it to Brymen (if it's their label on it). Otherwise, to the rebrand company, and they're likely to send a new unit, possibly a substitute if they've quit selling that model.
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