Brymen BM789

[tautech]

............
I have interacted with many 2nd class electricians and none of them had a meter with low-z or even know what to do with it.

FTFY. 

[J-R]

You can pick apart any general statement by providing specific use cases.  If you don't agree with the generalization, then that's fine.  It doesn't invalidate the generalization...

The workbench has your best equipment within reach, maybe more than you need.  When you're away you have to make do with what's nearby.  Put another way, I've got the multitool in my pocket, toolbox in the truck but tool tower in the garage/shop.

Low Z has a few uses, but I say typically on the bench it's rare because you have drawers of resistors or a substitution box for creating any specific load you want.  Away from the bench a common use is to see if that voltage you're seeing is "real" or just induced via nearby wiring.

Sometimes your bench DMM is too far away or you want the display right next to your face when you're deep in a repair.  So the BM869s seems pretty well feature packed for that.  BUT, no reason a BM789 can't be fine too.

And what do you say about my DMM that has a thermal camera built-in?  Hit the button, now I can instantly see that loose connection or an overloaded circuit, etc.  So Brymen is the loser now...

[joeqsmith]

People here are starting to agree that the scope is better for AC so what is left for dual display meters ?

I already stated I use it for the BM869s thermocouple inputs.

My scopes are limited to 8-bits.  For most cases, it's not a problem for what I use it for.   Here I set mine up to measure AC power by over sampling and fitting the data to remove some of the linearity errors:   

[Fungus]

People here are starting to agree that the scope is better for AC so what is left for dual display meters ?

Nothing.

That's why the BM857s is the best multimeter for bench use - simple, no display clutter, one function per dial position (almost). 

(and the Fluke 113 for "electricians" ... and you can own both for less than the price of a Fluke 87V)

[AVGresponding]

Considering low-z a feature for electricians is just wrong.
You wouldn't want an electrician to work on your electronics.
I have interacted with many electricians and none of them had a meter with low-z or even know what to do with it.
Electricians like stick meters with a few leds because a number on a screen is to much and I agree with them, measuring voltage thousands of times a day becomes irrelevant if it's 220 or 230.

Clearly you don't know any competent electricians. And you also misunderstand what an electrician might need a DMM for.

Two-probe/Steinel testers are already low-Z, and the reason for this is simple; they eliminate ghost voltages caused by capacitive and inductive coupling, and therefore give a "true" reading of the presence of dangerous voltages. In the UK, if you want to be certified for testing fixed wiring installations to BS2391 (which you need for signing off any electrical alteration work that is a part of such an installation), you must use a two-probe tester; a DMM is not acceptable.
You'd use an installation tester in the test and verification process, which again, is already low-Z. The two-probe testers are purely for fault finding and verifying a circuit is dead, prior to locking it off, so it can be worked on.

Electricians only use DMMs for things like troubleshooting industrial machinery and controls, where you need a bit more flexibilty. Basic domestic/commercial/industrial fixed wiring does not require it.

NCV voltsticks are useful when you're trying to find an individual circuit in a trunking with dozens or hundreds of cables; good luck getting a DMM in there. That function on a DMM is useful only for home users/hobbyists imo.

[EEVblog]

That's why the BM857s is the best multimeter for bench use - simple, no display clutter, one function per dial position (almost). 

Shots fired! 
I'll take the BM786 thanks.

[J-R]

That "simple" argument is objectively bogus and doesn't hold up to scrutiny.  The BM857s has a significant number of shared functions and multiple settings per switch position just like the other models:

BM857s has 9 function switch positions.  4 are shared functions in the strict sense.  7 have multiple settings.
BM859s has 9 function switch positions.  5 are shared functions in the strict sense.  9 have multiple settings.
BM867s has 9 function switch positions.  5 are shared functions in the strict sense.  7 have multiple settings.
BM869s has 10 function switch positions.  7 are shared functions in the strict sense.  10 have multiple settings.
BM786 has 8 function switch positions.  4 are shared functions in the strict sense.  7 have multiple settings.
BM789 has 9 function switch positions.  5 are shared functions in the strict sense.  8 have multiple settings.

Also, the BM857s/BM859s and BM78x have 8 buttons, while the BM867s/BM869s have 6.

Ultimately, due to the mode memory that can't be disabled, all Brymen DMMs can be a pain to use in many cases because you never know what function you'll get when you flick it on, unless your life is so dull that you memorize the last setting or write it down every time you turn it off.

The 121GW with the mode memory hack is a joy by comparison.  The setting I'm using is remember the mode while it's on, but reset to the white-lettered functions after power-off.  Predictable.  Dare I say "simple".

[Fungus]

Ultimately, due to the mode memory that can't be disabled, all Brymen DMMs can be a pain to use in many cases because you never know what function you'll get when you flick it on, unless your life is so dull that you memorize the last setting or write it down every time you turn it off.

The only thing I really toggle on BM857s is Ohms/continuity, and it's really easy to know when it's in the wrong mode.

No need to even look at the screen, just touch the probes together.

That's why the BM857s is the best multimeter for bench use - simple, no display clutter, one function per dial position (almost). 

Shots fired! 
I'll take the BM786 thanks.

That's a good second choice but it has three functions on a single range (Ohms/continuity/Siemens)...   

(size is also similar)

I feel this is a topic that's never been explored. Which meter needs the least button pushes and mode selections in daily use?

[Fungus]

Another topic:

What's more useful?

a) A BM869s,
or
b) A BM857s and a $30 Zeewei oscilloscope?