Brymen Crest and Min/Max Function VDC Capability

[splat2030]

I have to ask the dumb question. Why not just buy the correct tool for a battery load test... AKA a carbon pile??? They can be had for cheap from HarborFreight/NorthernTool/Amazon, and will be much more accurate of a battery health test than trying to measure the voltage while cranking the starter.

A voltage drop of <9.6 volts during cranking is a quick check that indicates you have a healthy battery, starter, and starting system wiring/connections. Simply load testing the battery tells you nothing about the health of the starter and associated components. I needed to purchase a multimeter anyways, so I was looking for something that would work for this test.

[bdunham7]

 

Any of the 'slow' models  you've discussed will work fine in place of the Fluke 87 in your linked video.  Your quest for the right multimeter may result in you getting one that gives you wrong results on this very rough rule-of-thumb test.  Here is a Fluke 289 in MIN/MAX PEAK mode, again on a perfectly good car and battery.

[joeqsmith]

If I put the meter at the starter and try to crank the motor (which doesn't roll over) and I see a reasonable  voltage, the starter is getting pulled.  A 12V lamp is about all I need.  I've had a few of my personal starters go bad.  It's always the brushes.   Tough to tell how much life is left on them with a meter.    Same for the solenoid.  Wiring and terminals are easy enough to inspect.   

[splat2030]

Any of the 'slow' models  you've discussed will work fine in place of the Fluke 87 in your linked video.  Your quest for the right multimeter may result in you getting one that gives you wrong results on this very rough rule-of-thumb test.  Here is a Fluke 289 in MIN/MAX PEAK mode, again on a perfectly good car and battery.

I'm just going to go with the Uni-t 161D with a regular "slow" min/max based on the information you provided in this thread. I like that it has the temperature probe, and I should be able to pick one up for about $70.

[splat2030]

If I put the meter at the starter and try to crank the motor (which doesn't roll over) and I see a reasonable  voltage, the starter is getting pulled.  A 12V lamp is about all I need.  I've had a few of my personal starters go bad.  It's always the brushes.   Tough to tell how much life is left on them with a meter.    Same for the solenoid.  Wiring and terminals are easy enough to inspect.

I am only looking at performing this test maybe once a year as a simple preventative health check, so I hopefully don't get to the point of the starter not cranking. If this test passes and reads >9.6 volts, then I shouldn't have to do anything further. If this test fails and reads < 9.6 volts, then I would load test the battery separately. If the battery load test passes, then I would do voltage drop testing along the circuit to rule out any bad connections. If that checks out, then I would check the starter current draw and if necessary pull the starter for further inspection and bench testing.

[armandine2]

Fluke 287 on min/max - just tested the battery on start - 3 times

first min reading was negative, under a volt - not sure what that was about? - ghost voltage, as I set min/max prior to attaching leads to battery
second reading min was over 10 volts
third reading - saved

I'm thinking may be my 287 isn't so quick as other's 289?

Ed to add Peak info from manual