Siglent SPD3303X-E Binding Post Issues - Solved

[bsudbrink]

With the generosity of Gandalf_Sr, I replaced the binding posts on my SPD3303X-E.  I figured I would put up a few pictures because I know people like to look.

[Gandalf_Sr]

So, were those binding posts better than the ones you had?

[bsudbrink]

So, were those binding posts better than the ones you had?

Yes, very much.  Thanks!

[bsudbrink]

Now that I have a spare set to play with, I think I will try filing 4 or so millimeters off the end of my originals and see how that works.  The color goes in, not that the color really matters, and if I get a relatively clean even cut, I bet an application of acetone would shine them right up.

[Elasia]

Now that I have a spare set to play with, I think I will try filing 4 or so millimeters off the end of my originals and see how that works.  The color goes in, not that the color really matters, and if I get a relatively clean even cut, I bet an application of acetone would shine them right up.

I've been thinking about that myself.  If you do it, some pics and results would be nice!

[Elasia]

Just got these in from banggood and they work like a champ.. really nice fit.  I actually got them to use as plugs for my speakers instead but they work great on this too

https://www.banggood.com/DANIU-P3008-10Pcs-4mm-Copper-Banana-Plug-Jack-Speaker-Amplifier-Test-Probes-Connector-p-1109354.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USA

The wire end could be a bit better but nothing some solder cant fix

[tautech]

Just got these in from banggood and they work like a champ.. really nice fit.  I actually got them to use as plugs for my speakers instead but they work great on this too

https://www.banggood.com/DANIU-P3008-10Pcs-4mm-Copper-Banana-Plug-Jack-Speaker-Amplifier-Test-Probes-Connector-p-1109354.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USA

The wire end could be a bit better but nothing some solder cant fix

Yep, note the pin length nearly 1/2 way down that page.....some 23mm ! 

[Elasia]

 
Yep, note the pin length nearly 1/2 way down that page.....some 23mm ! 

Yeah I think i spent an hour looking on the internet for something that would match Siglent's females lol  and then if they didnt.. who cares i needed em for my speakers anyway

I think the side hole is a cool feature too.. check out the cheapie I stuffed into it.. its tight too... using these plugs might be a much more cost effective way to deal with their posts.  But you can see from the pic, the wire space is not the greatest.. i'll need to wire clean it and glob some flux in to get it to suck itself down.. just isnt much there to work with   Does come with a cheesy tiny set screw..  no free lunch.

Edit: holy shit i made this image way to big by mistake lol

[rf-loop]

Just got these in from banggood and they work like a champ.. really nice fit.  I actually got them to use as plugs for my speakers instead but they work great on this too

https://www.banggood.com/DANIU-P3008-10Pcs-4mm-Copper-Banana-Plug-Jack-Speaker-Amplifier-Test-Probes-Connector-p-1109354.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USA

The wire end could be a bit better but nothing some solder cant fix

They looks like very poor copycat of Hirschmann Buela 30 K (what original is also rated for 30A). Specially I look these spring wires. Perhaps they are not right material and also when look shape it looks like they do not have right spring force bias (what is difficult if material is soft)  But of course still works (least when they are new) lot of better than "what ever el cheapo"  american style plugs (american style = short plug) what we have seen lot of in some pictures around this binding post case.

This is designed more like for European type long banana plug. Banana was originally launched 1924 by Richard Hirschmann GmbH & Co and also General Radio introduced same kind of plug known as type 274 for america around same time.
Gen Rad 1963 Vol 37 No. 12:

..."banana" plug, introduced in this country by GR in 1924 and manufactured ever since by us as the TYPE 274 Pug.

  And these Genrad plugs are really short.

Suitable models here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-spd3303x-e-binding-post-issues-solved/msg1446025/#msg1446025



It is really pity in electronics world that lack of standards is very common. There is not any real common standards for banana plug. There is american style and european style and all bewtween these and outside of these.  If I do different I'm not wrong. All can do what ever binding posts and plugs and name it "banana plug". No real standards. Yes there are some common practices, one is dimension around 4mm (without anything about tolerances) and for double plug pitch 3/4 inch from Genrad.

[Elasia]

Yeah I'll end up most likely importing some genuine Hirschmann ones for more precision work if i dont just use the post clamp itself. Newark wants to import from their UK warehouse and slap an over priced shipping fee on it and i didnt need them that bad for the primary reason I actually ordered them which was to use on my avr/speakers.

These knock offs good enough for now

[mojoe]

I just received an SPD3303X yesterday from Saelig which I ordered after confirming with them that their units in stock have the newer posts.

I have played with it using a couple flavours of Pomona leads and they fit snugly.  I tried a set of Cal Test leads and they did not insert well at all but work fine with my Rigol DP832A.

I guess the current posts are usable but fussy.

I just installed new binding posts on my two Siglent supplies (posted about it yesterday). I also have Cal Test leads with the spring-loaded plastic shrouds. I find that the banana plugs go almost all the way in with minimal force. If more force is applied, they insert that last little bit, and the fit is very solid.

You know the Engineer's rule, "If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed fixing anyway."

[joeyjoejoe]

Is this still an issue for new units being sold? Eyeing this PSU...

[Gandalf_Sr]

I have the (modified binding posts) SPD3303X-E and the Rigol DP832, both have their issues - the Siglent binding posts may still be be iffy and I accept that the standards are loose but the DP832 posts have sero issues, all my leads just plug into them and stay put.  The DP832 fan was noisy and I replaced it - covered in a post here somewhere - but output 3 shares its -ve pin with output 2 which is kind of irritating and something you have to watch but output 3 is fully adjustable on the DP832 but is just switched on the Siglent plus the Rigol gives full control and display of set and actual voltage and current on output 3 - output 3 on the Siglent is just switched 2.5V/3.3V/5V/3.2A with no display other than on/off.  The DP832 UI is a bit odd but intuitive and does everything you need.

The DP832 can be 'upgraded' via Riglol to give 1 mV / 1 mA resolution on all 3 outputs plus LAN, RS232 etc. the only thing it doesn't get is the color DP832A pie-chart display but you can choose what color the display is, I like the cyan blue.

If I was forced to only keep one, I'd have to keep the Rigol DP832 because the binding posts are perfect and the UI is way better, the Siglent display is sort of sexy but it only covers outputs 1 & 2 and it's difficult to read the parameter numbers if I look at it from 45 degrees above when they are selected for adjustment when it's on the bench - I have to crouch and look at it straight on if I want to adjust a parameter while it's live.

[joeyjoejoe]

Interesting. Here I was thinking the 3303 was a better purchase.

I did see recently that they have found an unlock to convert the 3303X-E to the 3303X. The DP832 is 100$ more in Canada.

[skYfIrE]

Hello EEV community

I was interesting to purchase this power supply but after reading your feedback (and I thank you all for sharing) about binding post, I can't consider this Siglent PS as a good choice. So what I've found on market :
- TTi QL355P : programmable, reliable but a bot "oldschool",
- Rigol DP832A : Well equipped but a bit expansive + I don't like the graphic interface,
- Rhode & Schwartz NGE 102 : Good device, maybe this one is less sexy than Siglent 3303X.

Anyone knows an another PS solution for this kind of device for a similar price ? It means with 2 out, ~30V/3A, programmable, 1mV Res, USB, Lan with a LCD sceen.

[orzel]

With the generosity of Gandalf_Sr, I replaced the binding posts on my SPD3303X-E.  I figured I would put up a few pictures because I know people like to look.

Not sure why you opened the gear. The color part of the binding post is the only thing that need to be modified, and it's easy to pop them out.

Not that you really need an excuse for a teardown, of course !

[orzel]

Hi there. Just to report my experience. I have a fairly recent version of spd3303x-e, so presumably with the new kind of BP. And nope, they really still are not good, half of my plugs wont fit, or loosely fit.

Thanks to the original post, i did exactly the same, and made the opening (just slightly) larger. And indeed, it's far better. I dont have the magic 'step drill' tool, so i just used an electrical screwdriver with a cross head, and i went 'gently'. The color plastic is quite easy to machine, so it was easy. I did it directly, without opening the power supply, with the BP still in place. I unscrewed them so that the plastic part is further away from the internal metallic part.

Some photos will explain. The one from front show the two posts on the right 'drilled' (and not yet cleaned). The hole is larger. The other posts aren't done yet, for comparison.
Then a (red, not cheap) plug is used on the green (original) post : wont got far, and is loose. The same plug used on the machined post, goes further, and is firmly attached.

Thanks a lot to the original post !