I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3. Are they counting the one in the unit?
I also only received 2 spare fuses. I did notice that Dave received three spare fuses with his unit (
https://youtu.be/IaWgF1SORkk?t=33m46s) so maybe 230v factory configured units receive three vs two for 115v configured units for some reason. Maybe Rigol reduced the number to two at some point in the past.
Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it? I may post this question as a separate thread. Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty. 
Admittedly, I'm very OCD, especially when it comes to anything I spend my hard earned money on. I tend to only buy high quality and therefore I have high expectations. While thoroughly testing and evaluating my unit, I noted a few minor quality control related issues which didn't justify a return but did bug me enough to tweak them. The main issue was the green chassis ground binding post. I noticed it was loose (clockwise/counterclockwise movement when tightening/loosening the binding post knob). The other issue was the LCD display, rubber membrane buttons and rotary encoder knob were off center to the far left. No huge issue, just aesthetically displeasing. These issues were evident prior to teardown, I discovered a few others during teardown (see below).
Once I had thoroughly tested, evaluated and burned my unit in (I'll explain what I mean by “burn in” below), I removed (using wax paper) the factory warranty seal and stored it on a folded piece of wax paper. I then attached the wax paper to a printout of the picture I took of the factory installed seal before removal (for future reinstallation reference, see below images). I waited to open my unit up until I was completely happy with my tests/evaluation and intended to keep the unit (no need to open the unit up for minor tweaking if some major “return justified” issue developed first).
Teardown Issues & Resolutions:Once I had the factory warranty seal safely removed and stored, I proceeded to teardown my unit. Looking back on the experience, I'm glad I did because numerous issues were brought to light and resolved...
- ISSUE: While utilizing the carry handle, I noticed a rough feel/operation when the handle was pulled/released. I also noticed some paint shavings when removing the handle.
RESOLUTION: During reassembly, I installed the metal core of the handle on the opposite side from how it was installed at the factory. The metal core of the handle appears to be stamped out, resulting in a side with smooth edges and a side with sharp edges. The sharp edged side was installed facing the paint finish at the factory. This resulted in the paint finish rapidly getting worn down to bare metal and rough operation. By simply flipping the metal core over, no more finish damage and silky smooth operation.
- ISSUE: Three stripped out chassis Torx screw heads (one securing top board assembly to the chassis and two securing front panel assembly to the chassis).
RESOLUTION: Cleaned up Torx screw heads with a file and carefully/properly torqued down during reassembly.
- ISSUE: Sloppily bundled wire bundles which were poorly routed resulting in several wires being situated up against and rubbing a raw/sharp edge of the chassis (potential for issues over time).
RESOLUTION: Disconnected all interconnects during disassembly. During reassembly, cleanly routed and wire tied all wires/bundles.
- ISSUE: Green chassis ground binding post loose.
RESOLUTION: Visually verified issue. Lock washer was just slightly contacted by binding post nut. All the other binding post lock washers were nearly completely flattened by their respective nut. I tightened the nut until properly torqued (visually matching the other lock washers). I also took this opportunity to correctly align the binding post through hole which was previously off center. Now, all seven binding post through holes are perfectly centered.
- ISSUE: LCD display, rubber membrane buttons and rotary encoder knob were off center to the far left.
RESOLUTION: The front panel is engineered in such a way that there is horizontal/vertical play in the LCD/PCB/rubber membrane button assembly when all the screws are loosened. There is just enough play to create a sloppy appearance if you adjust the assembly to the extreme left/right/top/bottom or even rotate it and create a tilted LCD display issue. There are guide holes integrated in to the assembly to aid in proper centering which the Rigol employee ignored during assembly. I simply loosened all the screws and centered everything up properly. Again, it's just an aesthetic issue but I spent my hard earned money on this unit so I want it as near perfect as possible.
I know, I knooow, I knoooooow... OCD to the extreme. I realize this. However, realize that I'm setting up my home electronics lab (in my recently acquired 12' x 24' finished basement) and beginning the process of passing on my knowledge of electronics to my twelve year old son. So, I want everything as near perfect as possible. He's sat in and observed/participated/learned a ton during this process. The purchases I'm making now, I plan to pass on to him in the future. For Christmas, I hooked him up with a beginner electronics kit and a bunch of Arduino gear. He's probably one of the few twelve year old kids on the planet with Fluke 87V and Rigol DP832 experience.
”Burn In” Explanation:When I say “burn in”, I simply mean extensive operation, testing and evaluation of the unit over the course of several days (starting the day I received the unit from UPS). The Rigol authorized dealer I purchased the unit from has a certain return window, so, the purpose is to expose any issues which might warrant a return as close to initial receipt of the unit as possible. In other words, before I'm stuck with a potentially defective unit, I want to know of any issues and either resolve them or return for exchange/refund.
During the “burn in” period, I...
- Inspected the unit for quality control related issues (and discovered a few).
- Functionally checked every aspect of the unit. During my functional checks, I discovered two bugs (which I reported here at the EEVblog and I plan to report to Rigol).
- Verified calibration throughout the voltage/current ranges numerous times (always well within spec).
- Loaded the unit up to 100% of rated spec for a few minutes and then dropped down to 70-80% of rated spec and ran for an hour or so.
- Ran the unit continuously for a 24-hour period. During this time (which fell on a weekend), I became intimately familiar with every aspect of my Rigol DP832. I had a blast. Yes, I stayed awake all 24 hours enjoying my purchase!
- Monitored the unit for any thermal issues.
With the questionable history of the Rigol DP832 (engineering failures, thermal issues, PCB revisions, etc...), I wanted to ensure my unit was as near perfect as possible. My unit is equipped with what I believe are the newest revisions of the TopBoard (v02.20) and BottomBoard (v02.20). Therefore, I especially wanted to make sure everything was good to go analog board wise.
Warranty Seal Removal/Storage:As stated above, I removed (using wax paper) the factory warranty seal and stored it on a folded piece of wax paper. I then attached the wax paper to a printout of the picture I took of the factory installed seal before removal (for future reinstallation reference). This, along with the certificate of calibration, documentation, purchase receipt, serial number documentation, etc... are all filed away for safe keeping.
NOTE: Consider carefully the risk to your factory warranty if you decide to try and replicate what I have posted below. Patience, a steady hand and practiced technique are required to successfully execute this. One wrong move and your warranty will be voided! I've been doing this for many years so I have the process perfected. Even if I hadn't decided to teardown my unit, I would have removed and stored the factory warranty seal just to protect it. These seals are very fragile and you can easily damage them (voiding your warranty) just from normal use/handling, even if you don't actually open your unit up. Just look at Dave's seal, it was damaged prior to him tearing his unit down after only owning it for a short period of time (
https://youtu.be/s4rV20ulsm0?t=1m16s).
Moderators: I've reviewed the forum rules and don't believe I'm violating any rule(s) by posting this technique here. I apologize in advance if you take issue with this.-Kris
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