Fluke 17B+ thorough review

[Jiri Bekr]

Hello guys.

I wanted to try out a Fluke multimeter, and found this 15/17/18 B+ series to have all the features one would expect from everyday DMM, while being priced more to the common sense side, than to the overpriced side.

However, most reviews on this one that I have seen were empty, or focused on just the brand, not the instrument itself. Thinking this is the sweet spot in market, I bought the 17B+. And when it arrived, problems began appearing. Useless probes, no TrueRMS, silent buzzer, slow speed, faulty HV indication, dim backlight, there is more.

The review also covers my experience with Fluke EU service and their dangerous Fluke T110 / T150 VDE testers, that got me electrocuted twice. They may have been recalled, but the problem just continues to appear even in new models.

https://youtu.be/hCIY1f9c9Vo

 So, if interested, feel free to watch the review.

Video thumbnail, and tables are attached. I apologize for not translating the tables to english, I will do it fully when Hioki DT4282 review comes out. Hopefully, this year.

[Fungus]

However, most reviews on this one that I have seen were empty, or focused on just the brand, not the instrument itself. Thinking this is the sweet spot in market, I bought the 17B+. And when it arrived, problems began appearing. Useless probes, no TrueRMS, silent buzzer, slow speed, faulty HV indication, dim backlight, there is more.

Don't forget the low accuracy (0.5% IIRC) 

The 17B+ is much more expensive than the 15B+, if you really want a "Very Basic Fluke" the 15B+ might be the one to go for, or maybe the lesser-known 12E.

Brymen makes a better meter at both 15B and 17B price points though. You'd really have to want a yellow meter for any of those Flukes to make sense.

(eg. Brymen 805/806/807 range, starting at 58 Euros...)

[Jiri Bekr]

Don't forget the low accuracy (0.5% IIRC) 
The 17B+ is much more expensive than the 15B+, if you really want a "Very Basic Fluke" the 15B+ might be the one to go for, or maybe the lesser-known 12E.
Brymen makes a better meter at both price points, though. You'd have to really want a yellow meter for any of those Flukes to make sense.
(see Brymen 805/806/807 range, starting at 58 Euros...)

Defintely agree, the 0,5% basic accuracy is just not enough at this price point. For this DMM, I could have two and half HoldPeaks HP770D or Owons B35T+ with 0,05% basic accuracy for DCV. But these are nowhere near as sturdy to be honest. So UT161E would be Fluke Killer (basically same as UT61E+, but with better fuses).

My desk (see the attachment) could definitely use some more of the red color, maybe BM785 or 789? Mid-end, 0,03% BA, and powered by AAA. These look attractive and resourceful for sure. Right now I must get Hioki DT4282 and CM4141-50 reviews done, then in december, I will be meeting with Fluke distributor, and god knows what will we agree on. So, Brymen may be joining my army in second quarter of 2023, or later. I originally planned on buying UT171B/C or UT181A to replace my UNI-T UT61E+ and Hioki DT4261, but the charging through main sockets? No, thanks. Brymen will be then most probably my next choice.

[PushUp]

These Fluke DMMs 15, 17, 18 (also 101, 106, 107) are not able to measure true-RMS! Considering the price, they are not worth to buy!

Even Fluke says on their HP:

"Yet a true-RMS meter is widely preferred because it is the only one that can accurately measure both sinusoidal and non-sinusoidal ac waveforms."

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-true-rms


Cheers! 

[mqsaharan]

I have been just watching your review and stumbled upon your post.
You seem to be getting a few things wrong there regarding the hardware. The fuse ratings are written on them. Just rotate and you'll find their interrupt rating for both AC and DC written on them.
The R20 is a 1k ohm (not 1M ohm) fuse-able resistor. If MOVs started to conduct this resistor will open like a fuse and stop the fault current. Its a safety feature that you'll not find in cheap meters including most Uni-Trend meters.
The C1 10nF 1000V capacitor is for AC coupling. And R1 1K resistor is to discharge it when you rotate the function switch to some other function.

I am surprised about your comment about Uni-Trend UT61E+ current measuring capability that it compensates for the shunts temperature. I couldn't find any mention of it from your or other people's reviews or in its manual. Would you please explain a bit more about it?
There is however a safety feature built-in that lights up a yellow LED, sounds the buzzer and shows "CUT" on display if the internal temperature rises to or above 75 degree C while measuring current as per the manual.

[Jiri Bekr]

I have been just watching your review and stumbled upon your post.
You seem to be getting a few things wrong there regarding the hardware. The fuse ratings are written on them. Just rotate and you'll find their interrupt rating for both AC and DC written on them.
The R20 is a 1k ohm (not 1M ohm) fuse-able resistor. If MOVs started to conduct this resistor will open like a fuse and stop the fault current. Its a safety feature that you'll not find in cheap meters including most Uni-Trend meters.
The C1 10nF 1000V capacitor is for AC coupling. And R1 1K resistor is to discharge it when you rotate the function switch to some other function.

I am surprised about your comment about Uni-Trend UT61E+ current measuring capability that it compensates for the shunts temperature. I couldn't find any mention of it from your or other people's reviews or in its manual. Would you please explain a bit more about it?
There is however a safety feature built-in that lights up a yellow LED, sounds the buzzer and shows "CUT" on display if the internal temperature rises to or above 75 degree C while measuring current as per the manual.

Fuse ratings are not written on them. There are just some fractions, and god knows what they mean. Well, They actually mean current, but industry standard, at least here in Europe is to write the amperes straight. Like "440mA" or "0,44A". There is  "DMM-44/100-R" written on it. This sounds just like a generic part code, but not fuse rating. What is the purpose of using fractions in such cases where you use SI units? We don't write 20mA as 2/100. Such a stupid idea it is to express amperage by fractions.

The R20, well, I must apologize for I got that wrong. I somehow remembered the 1 meg value and then additional 10 meg. This confusion may come from other multimeter I have look into. So thanks for clarification, will mention it in the desc.

So, the C1 is for AC, okay, thanks for info.

UT61E+ is the only multimeter with classic shunt wire, that even when overheated, still has the same reading, no matter the shunt temp. I have overloaded the multimeter (1 minute at nominal current should be enough for CUT indication), and the measurement was still absolutely correct (after the CUT was done beeping). Any other multimeters begin showing more and more, until you get like 12A on display while just 10A is passing through the multimeter. Usually shunt wire gets hot at nominal current, begins to expand its length and increases resistance, so also increasing burden voltage, causing bad reading. Some SMD shunts are prone to this too, but not that significantly of course.

Regarding the CUT function, there is one thing to it. It doesn't engage the warning when you are on different range and you keep passing current through your multimeters A -> COM. This may happen only to some newbies though.

[mqsaharan]

Well, I misunderstood. You are right, the fuse rating is not written in traditional manner which it should.

Thank you for the explanation. It is good to know that it keeps its readings reasonably accurate even when current shunt heats up.

[Fungus]

These Fluke DMMs 15, 17, 18 (also 101, 106, 107) are not able to measure true-RMS! Considering the price, they are not worth to buy!

There's plenty of people who wouldn't care about that.

(or who know how to multiply by 1.1 for square waves)

[joeqsmith]

Hello guys.
...
However, most reviews on this one that I have seen were empty, or focused on just the brand, not the instrument itself.
...

You set the bar high, so I thought I would have a look.  Seems the first 15 minutes were just blabbing into the camera.  I never saw any testing.  Sorry but I would have go more from reading the manual. 

These Fluke DMMs 15, 17, 18 (also 101, 106, 107) are not able to measure true-RMS! Considering the price, they are not worth to buy!

There's plenty of people who wouldn't care about that.
...

I was surprised when the OP posted

...And when it arrived, problems began appearing. Useless probes, no TrueRMS ...

as I would think buyers would have taken the time to learn something that basic before buying.  That's not problem with the product. 

UT61E+ is the only multimeter with classic shunt wire, that even when overheated, still has the same reading, no matter the shunt temp. I have overloaded the multimeter (1 minute at nominal current should be enough for CUT indication), and the measurement was still absolutely correct (after the CUT was done beeping). Any other multimeters begin showing more and more, until you get like 12A on display while just 10A is passing through the multimeter. Usually shunt wire gets hot at nominal current, begins to expand its length and increases resistance, so also increasing burden voltage, causing bad reading. Some SMD shunts are prone to this too, but not that significantly of course.

This is interesting.  First, there is normally a duty cycle and on time specified but ignoring that everything has a TC.  Perhaps the UT61E+ doesn't offer the resolution needed to detect it.  If I had an 8.5 digit meter and a 3.5 digit meter, and the 3.5 digit meter doesn't move where the 8.5 does, few would suggest the 3.5 out performing the 8.5.  Guessing there was more to it but I didn't watch the video. 

[Fungus]

I was surprised when the OP posted

...And when it arrived, problems began appearing. Useless probes, no TrueRMS ...

as I would think buyers would have taken the time to learn something that basic before buying.  That's not problem with the product.

Yep. The most basic research before buying would have revealed they aren't TRMS.

What I meant earlier was that lack of TRMS isn't a deal breaker for many people.

[Fungus]

However, most reviews on this one that I have seen were empty, or focused on just the brand, not the instrument itself.

How about these?





Go to time 24:50 in this one:

[joeqsmith]

For being such a perfect zero drift meter, the UT61E+ sure does move around a lot.

[MiroS]

However, most reviews on this one that I have seen were empty, or focused on just the brand, not the instrument itself.

It looks like you did the same, only on the opposite side. Next time look for trusted review before buying. I own  17B+, payed by myself and never regreted. Reading spec before buying always make sense ... but who can be blamed for not reading spec? Fluke? Really?

[Jiri Bekr]

It looks like you did the same, only on the opposite side. Next time look for trusted review before buying. I own  17B+, payed by myself and never regreted. Reading spec before buying always make sense ... but who can be blamed for not reading spec? Fluke? Really?

Well, the product page didn't mention anything about the non-functional PWM duty measurement, and there was not even a single word about the fact that this multimeter is so silent, that it has a hard time to overbeep typical background noise. You also can't find anything on the exceptionally hard leads insulation, or any other fails like that the multimeter swings on the table like an egg. Also the problem with faulty HV indication was only mentioned in one document one has to search on official page. That's why we need honest reviews, not these "it's a Fluke, must be great then" - almost like it was a religion...

[BeBuLamar]

I guess there is a market for those meters. Fluke does have Amprobe division which makes less expensive meters. I am not sure why they need to be in that low end market. It actually makes me want to look for other brands now that Fluke is making those meters. For a person like me those meters made me think less of Fluke.
Back in the late 80's when they introduced the 12 I think that's the cheap Fluke meter I want. In fact I have several of them.

[MiroS]

Well, the product page didn't mention anything about the non-functional PWM duty measurement, and there was not even a single word about the fact that this multimeter is so silent, that it has a hard time to overbeep typical background noise. You also can't find anything on the exceptionally hard leads insulation, or any other fails like that the multimeter swings on the table like an egg. Also the problem with faulty HV indication was only mentioned in one document one has to search on official page. That's why we need honest reviews, not these "it's a Fluke, must be great then" - almost like it was a religion...

Amazing, you are blaming Fluke that errata published in February 2014 is published just on the same page, one line down to  manual, and that is really hard to find for you? Blaming Fluke that you did no check files? Swings like the egg? 

[BillyO]

These always remind me of the Surpeer AV4.  They are outwardly identical except for the color.  Same shape, same size, same control and probe socket positioning.  Probably made in the same factory.  Makes me shudder.

The Surpeer was like $30 and did have true RMS though.

[BeBuLamar]

You didn't like the 113 and 116 which I have used both and like them. I chose the 113 because it has only a few functions and the 116 because it doesn't measure current.

[rsjsouza]

These always remind me of the Surpeer AV4.  They are outwardly identical except for the color.  Same shape, same size, same control and probe socket positioning.  Probably made in the same factory.  Makes me shudder.

The Surpeer was like $30 and did have true RMS though.

Indeed. Around the time this Surpeer was released, there was a series of meters that had the same resemblance to these Flukes - I think they are mostly concentrated in the shape of the numbers and graphics of the LCD and the moulding of the rotary switch.

One of the large OEMs lists at least three, which were replicated by others of the likes of Bside, Aneng, Richmeters, etc.

[Black Phoenix]

And in China there is also replacement PCBs and MCUs for those equipments, non official.

The Fluke 15B+/17B+/18B+ have a blob in the MCU space:



Someone made a replacement PCB for both the 15B+ and the 17B+ and got hold of the MCUs for it: