Restoration of Lecroy WaveMaster / WavePro Front Bezel by 3D Printing

[Mechatrommer]

parts for 20cm x 15cm print area broken down in few pieces...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445344

original 3d part is here...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306466
and here Upgrading Mainboard in Lecroy DDA-3000 (aka WavePro 7300a)

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/upgrading-mainboard-in-lecroy-dda-3000-(aka-wavepro-7300a)/?action=dlattach;attach=603091;image

pic 1: the printed parts.
pic 2,3,4,5,6: joined together with soldering iron.

next post...

[Mechatrommer]

pic 10-12: 1st pass... puttied with brown poly putty used in automotive restoration and repainting...
pic 20-24: 1st pass... sanding and fit testing (after 1 day for putty to cure)

after few passes of the same job above... painting...
is what you see here...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/msg2217855/#msg2217855







rough surfaces 90% gone. only have to find good coating for long lasting finishing paint. i'm thinking 2K clear coat on that water based paint.

FWIW...

[DaJMasta]

I'm working on some variants of the same, had thought since encountering the first breaks on these parts that 3d printing would be a great way to work around it, and then you uploaded some really good models to start with - these plastic bits have been so prone to failure, especially in shipping, and seem to be nearly impossible to otherwise source.  I've got a "remix" posted on thingiverse of both the foot and the bumper for it with some slightly modifications - got an in-progress version of the bezel as well, but I've had a couple of issues with my enclosure preventing me from getting a really good print out of it for proper testing.


In any case, what kind of materials are you using?  The soldering iron to join it is an interesting take, but if you're using ABS something like acetone welding or plastic glue may look a bit cleaner (though, it does look quite clean painted).  I assume the rubber bumpers on the feet are printed in some kind of elastomer?  I've been using TPU and while it strings enough to need some post-processing, it's done a good job of mimicking hard rubber.

[Converter]

Hello Mechatrommer,
How did you glue the pieces together? I mean - did you use a solvent like dichloroethane, or some kind of special glue (from what material are the printed parts here)?

[Converter]

It would also be useful to print these parts so that it was possible to manufacture the input adapter on your own.

[Mechatrommer]

In any case, what kind of materials are you using?  The soldering iron to join it is an interesting take, but if you're using ABS something like acetone welding or plastic glue may look a bit cleaner (though, it does look quite clean painted).  I assume the rubber bumpers on the feet are printed in some kind of elastomer?  I've been using TPU and while it strings enough to need some post-processing, it's done a good job of mimicking hard rubber.

i just used PLA on everything i printed. havent make research on better and longer lasting material for 3D printing. ABS warped too much so i abandon that material.

Hello Mechatrommer,
How did you glue the pieces together? I mean - did you use a solvent like dichloroethane, or some kind of special glue (from what material are the printed parts here)?

i used what we call here chloroform. its controlled substance but i got a left over from my brother doing car accessories shop. i think chloroform is much stronger than acetone treatment, but even that, i have to "weld" with soldering iron to make stronger connection. thats only hack tool available for me, cant do any better. and the fact that i will paint it afterward, so the burnt effect will not be an issue, unless you open it up and look from the inside. i'm not familiar with dichloroethane. i noticed a small portion at the top part of the bezel i'm doing is splitted up already due to not enough glue strength i guess, i'll make another treatment pass on that later.

[texaspyro]

The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane.   Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US.  It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.

[Mechatrommer]

The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane.   Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US.  It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.

aha if PVC pipe solvent/bonder, we have a lot of that here, i just pulled up one from my storage its called ABS Solvent. you gave me some idea, yes its a strong bond between PVC, but i'm not sure if its dichloromethane (DCM) its not written anywhere on the can labelling or how effective it is on PLA. thanks maybe we can use that for later project.

[Converter]

The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane.   Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US.  It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.

It is possible that where you live, dichloromethane is used, but here, where I am, dichloroethane is always used and no one knows about dichloromethane. I do not think that there is a fundamental difference in the properties of these solvents.

if you have any idea or info, i'll be glad if you can share it.

Unfortunately, at the moment I do not have a single adapter for Lecroy LPA (I used the photo from the Internet).

about the 3d model for the adapters, i'll post when its quite finalized, but as i said it may not work for you since i've compensated the dimension for my 3d printer.

It would be useful for me, since I have SDA6000

[Converter]

I also bought a set of legs from this person, simply because I do not see any advantage in price if I place an order with local print performers. But I saved a lot of time.
I think $100 is an acceptable price for a nearly finished front panel. If a person is in good relations with his hands, it is not a problem for him to putty, grinding and paint. It is possible that I would buy it too.

Currently, I am fairly successfully restoring old broken frames. I use dichloroethane and fiberglass-reinforced epoxies, which I mix with dyes in the original color of this product.

Have you seen this frame in shapeways.com? I managed to find only the back legs there, and yes, it is extremely expensive there.

[Mechatrommer]

Currently, I am fairly successfully restoring old broken frames. I use dichloroethane and fiberglass-reinforced epoxies, which I mix with dyes in the original color of this product.

if you have the original frame, however broken it is, 3d printed part wont be necessary, as long as you have all the pieces to glue back together

Have you seen this frame in shapeways.com?

just upload the stl model to their website, choose what material and hit the button, you'll get your quotation.

[Mechatrommer]

final touch up is made during the weekend before this guy goes to a company in taiwan. another layer of polish and paint and lastly clear coat is applied. labelling is done, 80% exterior is cleaned esp the top part of the casing. this is how it looks before departure

[Converter]

Now it looks much better. But something is wrong with the color of the keyboard.
Have a photo of the back of the frame?

[Mechatrommer]

Now it looks much better. But something is wrong with the color of the keyboard.
Have a photo of the back of the frame?

what keyboard? when the clear coat is applied, the light blue color contrast is increased and becomes darker, i think much more matching with front panel control and the body, except the glossiness (i tried carefull enough to get matte finish but not 100% successful). the back of frame is unpainted, except smeared with flying mist of spray paint, otherwise it is as it was when printed/unpainted (visible layer steps). btw the dda5005a is boxed already ready to be picked up, kinda sad and sorrow

[Converter]

Do not worry, you have a reason to rejoice. You have already received a beautiful 1K discount in Thailand and sent him another counter offer yesterday 

By the way, the LeCroy sticker can be made this way.

[Mechatrommer]

Do not worry, you have a reason to rejoice. You have already received a beautiful 1K discount in Thailand and sent him another counter offer yesterday 

thats not the point. the unit is in good condition, spec spot on and some of my blood (hard work) is already there i will have no backup if something happen to my sda6000. considering the current condition of the 5005 it should be priced much higher imho. btw you have done some detective job there how did you do that? did you reject my offer?

[Converter]

Not. I do not participate in this.
But it was fascinating .
Do not worry. I have no envy about this. I am loaded with other projects.

[Converter]

Rear foots "made in DaJMasta" after grinding work 
But in the beginning it was wetted dichloroethane for leveling the surface.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273709928961

[mrcy22]

Today I received a frame printed at JLCPCB for the price of $8 ($13-5 promo coupon).
It looks really nice, there is no work involved, just screw it on.

[mrcy22]

...

[Converter]

  It was very intriguing. Where can I also buy it?

[mrcy22]

https://jlcpcb.com/3d-printing

[Converter]

Thank you.

How did they manage to make such a smooth surface?
Which option did you use: SLA (6060, 9000R, 8000 ), MJF or FDM ? For SLA 6060 it says: Heatproof: 56℃, 9000R - 46℃. It seems to me that this is too little. But MJF and FDM (98℃) cost over $60.
Did you use the 3d model from the first post in this thread?
How did you get the discount for the order?

[nctnico]

I'd be interested as well in a copy...

How did they manage to make such a smooth surface?

The jlc3d page has a link with a factory tour (by a modestly dressed Naomi Wu). It looks like they use sand blasting as the last step to smooth the surface.

[mrcy22]

The surface looks sandblasted, the matte white surface cannot be photographed properly.

I used the 3D model from the beginning of this thread, material sla9000r. I'm not worried about temperature resistance, the oscilloscope doesn't heat up that much.

I got the promo cupon like this :-)
https://www.google.com/search?q=jlcpcb+promo+code
About the third one I tried worked.

Hannah (I think they made up the English sounding names https://jlcpcb.com/ourTeam) wrote a threatening email see screenshot. There was no problem with the thin wall. The model was slightly deformed similar to the photo, but I simply and quickly flattened the deformation with hot/cold tap water. It went so well that in my excitement I didn't even have time to take a picture of the original model.