Are we advancing the previous research that led to retr0bright? It seemed clear that a deep soaking in lots of peroxide was not needed, just a soapy suds (mixed with washing powder) application. It seems even 6% peroxide is good enough, never mind the "salon professionals only" 12% (or 40 vol as I have now learned it is known). A few hours in the sun and Bob's your uncle!
The blue thing is worrying. Glad I leave it to you pioneers in Keithley plastics rather than me
Also, macboy's great hot plastic revival trick - before or after?
Some magic sauce is missing from TiN's and plesa'a attempts to have force a multi-day attempt. I have in the past added "Oxy Clean" (the concentrated stain remover powder, not the one marketed specifically as laundry detergent/booster). I found that it caused the HP to foam, and I didn't care for that. So my latest attempts did not use any Oxy booster at all, and it still worked like magic. As I said earlier, I used just a thin layer of 40 Vol (12%) HP gel brushed on, put into direct sunlight under cling wrap, and one hour later, done.
The heat reshaping can be done before or after color restoration. I have tried both ways and observe no difference to the result. I usually choose to do it after.
Here is one more weapon in the ABS panel restoration arsenal: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It is a model cement with extremely thin consistency. It is perfect for fixing cracks in ABS. If you have a crack, just apply a
small amount of this to the crack, it will instantly disappear into the crack by capillary action. The solvents then melt the plastic, and as they evaporate away, the crack is literally welded shut. If the crack has a little bit of a gap between sides, repeated application may be necessary. Each time, the solvent will dissolve a little plastic, filling in a little bit of the gap. (as with the heat reforming, practice with LEGO can be useful!).