HI friends...
I am new and glad to be here...i hope i can share knowledge here.....
I do Automotive repairs also i am a member of iATN forum for 5 years.. so i brought my first PC Scope Hantek 6074BE ..Please help me its seems It has lots of problems...
Please watch the videos below and Help me.... it has unusual Jumping trigger and it go crazy here is the the Video--
1)
2)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwE1gGI6FUtwS3NjZkxjSmxDM1Rvb29VQWhDYnhna3NRMEV3/viewPlease download above and unzip it then Click on
Crazy trigger.htm 1KB file it will Play on your web browser...
when nothing connected some channels show random Noise so i cant use Amp Clamp
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WecXZ9YeRGHhPzOnGRC_HK52jQ43ENnD/viewPlease download above and unzip it then Click on
Random noise 3.htm 1KB file it will Play on your web browser..
(I Guarantee that no Viruses or spywares in above links)
Please Watch the videos of my scope and tell me your opinion... Is this scope defective...? please i need your opinion ...?
Thanks in Advance..
After all that.
It looks like the trigger might be set to Auto instead of Normal.
Hi thanks for your reply i tried normal mode but it still jittering & jumping no change
Did you watch my second video which shows peculiar noise therefor it cant be used with Amp Clamp..
Do you thing this is defective scope..
Thank you again..
I connected scope Channel 2 with Amp Clamp which is on ignition coil and it draws about 6A....in the video i change Vertical Voltage Div/V and then Vmax Changes.. 
Total Current Value should not change with Voltage Div/V Knob
During the times that the full amplitude of the current
is visible on screen, the Max. ~6A current value looks about right to me.
During the times when the CH1 large pulse is in the wrong X position, there's a small noise pulse right under the correct X trigger position, there might be a
noise filter in the trigger settings somewhere to make it ignore the small pulses.
I don't know what the random noise is doing. Probably the way to test
the scope itself is with NO probes, the pp noise on all 4 channels should be about the same.
CH 3 looks like its coupling is set to GND instead of DC or AC, or it's
Hi Buddy CH3 is coupled to DC 5V Div/V See the picture below
since this is my first pc oscilloscope brought from Alie i need to know if this scope is Good or Bad asap... because i need to open a dispute...
"CH3 is coupled to DC 5V Div/V See the picture below"I'd seen that, I don't know any more about these things, but CH 3 looks
then.
Having the scope's name in the subject title might attract some Hantek users, you can edit the first post's title.
"Are you still awake ...? Doing night shift..."
01:45 Mid-weekend here.
"i need to know whats going on with my Noise and Trigger"
Any clean safe test signals to test each channel and the triggering on? I don't even know if them things have their own square wave calibration signal.
Hi yes it was Connected to a car...when nothing connected some channels show random Noise so i cant use Amp Clamp
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WecXZ9YeRGHhPzOnGRC_HK52jQ43ENnD/viewPlease download above and unzip it then Click on Random noise 3.htm 1KB file it will Play on your web browser..
(I Guarantee that no Viruses or spywares in above links)Thanks..
Dean2
I got your PM about this product I know little about so all I can offer is to ensure the firmware is the latest version.
Further, when triggering is unstable and settings are apparently correct, examine the period of the 'triggered on' signal and add some trigger holdoff to ensure you do not trigger again until the next event.
Sometimes a 'Single' trigger setting is enough to get the detail/info you need.
A running 4 stroke engine presents an extremely noisy (electrical noise) environment, mainly due to the ignition system firing. I would not be surprised to see some noise spikes with the oscilloscope sitting in the engine bay, especially with scope probes plugged in but not connected to anything or even without a probe/cable connected to a channel. An unconnected or incorrectly connected probe can act as an antenna and pick up noise. Even with nothing connected to the BNC jack, some noise will still couple in to the input. Ensure that you have the ground clip for each probe connected to a suitable location to minimise ground loops which will pick up magnetic fields. Locate the oscilloscope as far away from sources of noise (e.g. coil pack, ignition wires, battery cables) as is practical. Inevitably you will need to leverage the trigger functionality to reject any noise which remains to achieve a stable trigger (trigger hold off, HF noise rejection option, etc).
The only way to know if the scope is defective is to test it by a controlled measurement setup. Trying to measure signal off a running engine is clearly an uncontrolled setup unless you have another oscilloscope to compare.
i have the same problem the trigger drifting and not showing on the screen, i have tried everything its not the scope the one shot works every time as for normal or auto its shit its the software, your scope is fine but they need to work on the software its disappointing to the max, as for the X-Y format omg that is a epic fail i use mine for metal detectors and trying to do phase shift it is imposable you just get random dots lol, but just for damping a coil its hard when the trigger is jumping around and going of screen epic fail
ok rant over just waiting on better software
Hi Dean2
I also received your PM but unfortunately I don't have any experience of the Hantek.
I would also have blamed the electrically noisy environment, although it does seem to be advertised as an automotive scope (and with isolated channels). From your [EDIT:
latest previous] video (away from the engine compartment) it does look like a scope problem... and one that kosacid has also seen - it does look like a software problem in that case (he is probably your best source of help at this point as he knows the scope). It sounds as if it works in singe trigger mode so that is worth trying if that is practical.
The only other random thought that I have: Is your tablet able to supply enough current to power it over USB? You could try it on a desktop too and see if you see the same behavior (as your latest video).
A software problem is probably still grounds for returning it (for refund rather than replacement obviously) if that is an option.
I just tried a google search of eevblog and it pulled up one fairly recent hack / teardown thread:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hantek6074bc-hack-to-250mhz/ I don't know if any of the posters there can help?
https://youtu.be/zeJcEX8607cmines is a 6022BE here is a example of the problem seems its a all round problem but i still think it is software but not hardware, other software i have tested so far hasent got the same options its very basic eg BasicScope mine is not automotive related still the same problem
In below youtube channels 2 Guys have been using Hantek Automotive scope without issues...they might not speak English i want to know about their Hantek scope and also their opinions.. Can Anybody contact them for me...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnCujmf5UZS62oQNKOYBF2Q/videos---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks in Advance..
Look at the triggering of this Hantek PC Scope
Its seems its working good..?
or is it..? it seems model is Hantek 3064 ...? correct me if i am wrong..?
Thanks..
I got a PM too. Not sure what the criteria was for sending out PMs on this one. I don't have that scope so I can't help much.
All I can offer is a general equipment troubleshooting method, which is to get a known good signal and display that. A function generator is the thing you need, but any signal which you know is working should be good. That way you can see if the equipment is working or not. If that works as a first pass, try to figure out what you are doing differently in the special case where things are not working. Different ground configuration or something?
Hi Dean2, welcome to EEvblog forum, but please be advice that it's not nice to send PM (Personal Message) in order to make people solve your problem.
For the future, just use the forum like everybody else does, and don't abuse the PM.
