New Hantek DSO2X1X models?

[nokin]

Do you have any pic for power mod and the result in screen ?

[nokin]

Got mine last night with incredible price, $125 
I bought 2C10 and luckily the mainboard's revision is 2D15.
Now Wave Gen function works like a charm. 
Thanks DavidAlfa for all his modding works.

[masta_k74]

Unfortunately, I did not take any photos. I soldered the capacitors from +5V, +8V and -8V to GND on the underside of the PCB. Then I disconnected the plug for the 8V from the main board, put it through the ferrite rings (on the power supply side only 1x straight through the ring, the one on the plug for the main board 2x through the ring, otherwise the cable would have been too short) and reconnected it. However, as it looks in your picture, this is not necessary, as I can't see any of "my needle tips" on the signal there.
For me, there were always small needles of 2 - 4x the "noise amplitude". I got rid of them with this. The noise itself is still there and I don't know how to get rid of it. DavidAlfa has already tried a few things without success.
The spikes on my device also only appeared after some time, so I suspect that there might be a defect in the filter capacitors in the power supply unit or something similar.
A rising ESR would be a possible cause. However, the measured values of the electrolytic capacitors were normal.
For additional cooling, I use a simple 50mm fan for 5V, which I connect to about 3.3V (5V from the power supply, via 2x 1n4007 in series as a voltage dropper).
The fan runs so quietly that I can no longer hear it at a distance of 50cm.

[BillyO]

You can run DOOM on it? 

Probably with a little work.  You could also mow your lawn with a Porsche using a tow behind mower.

[Russ3000]

For me, there were always small needles of 2 - 4x the "noise amplitude". I got rid of them with this. The noise itself is still there and I don't know how to get rid of it. DavidAlfa has already tried a few things without success.
The spikes on my device also only appeared after some time, so I suspect that there might be a defect in the filter capacitors in the power supply unit or something similar.
A rising ESR would be a possible cause. However, the measured values of the electrolytic capacitors were normal.

Needles are caused by Schottky diodes heated above 85°C, their switching noise is directly proportional to the temperature. When I replaced them with larger ones with better cooling, the noise stopped as the temperature dropped.

Probably with a little work.  You could also mow your lawn with a Porsche using a tow behind mower.

Porsche is a fairly low machine, it is convenient to scatter fertilizer on the lawn from it.

[MarkyM]

Any suggestions for a better quality replacement for similar or not too much more money?

The Siglent SDS1202X-E is going for $339.  !0x the scope keeping quality and usability in mind, but it does not have the FG built in.

These little Hanteks have very little to compare to them if you look at teh specs and the price.  It's just a real shame they are such little dogs.  In reality the only thing they have going for them is DavidAlfa.  Hantek should be paying him a handsome salary.  If it weren't for his efforts they'd get all their junk back.

Thank you Bill. That Siglent is currently on sale for $287.10 on Amazon! I can do without the built-in generator although that was convenient.
Agreed!!

I returned the Hantek and received the Siglent today.
Wow!! This is a night-and-day difference. The traces on this thing almost look like an analog scope. I can easily live without the AWG for my audio work.
My USB stick was recognized immediately and I have saved my setup and a few .png's already.
thank you again!!!

[masta_k74]

@ Russ3000
Then it would be logical for my changes to have an effect. Due to the fan, my diodes reach about 55°C, not over 90°C as before.
The additional capacitors and ferrite rings do not interfere with the function, so I just leave them in.

The lower temperature should generally ensure a longer life for the power supply unit. Electronic components don't like higher temperatures, especially the electrolytic capacitors in switch-mode power supplies are already under enough stress, so they don't need to be stressed with high ambient temperatures.
I dare to doubt that these Chinese "quality goods" can cope well with this, especially if you take a look at the entire device in terms of design errors and software bugs.
Sometimes I wonder if they test their devices or just assemble them and sell them as quickly as possible before anyone notices.

The power supply unit design itself is strange. I would have given the transformer another winding for the 5V and put the voltage regulation on the 5V rail. The +8V and -8V are then simply rectified and smoothed, since the regulation for the analogue part is on the main board.
Why generate the +5V from the +8V with an additional step down? 
It looks as if someone simply forgot the 5V and had to add it later, as the transformers had already been ordered.

[Russ3000]

I was also surprised by the wrong power supply, I was even going to remake it by winding the winding to 5V and connecting the stabilization circuit to it. I think this is the case when the managers defeated the engineers, they changed 1 winding of the transformer in 2 turns to the stabilizer chip. The fan is certainly good, but I am a supporter of passive cooling, so there is less dust and noise. The diodes I used in the TO220 package dissipate enough heat and without a fan the temperature does not exceed 48C. At the same time, I changed the capacitors to a solid electrolyte, they have 3 times less ECP and a higher operating frequency. I also advise you to replace the R10 resistor with 4.7k to increase the voltage at the outputs + -8V, I had + 7.2V under load, which is not enough, for good operation, the 7805 requires a difference between the input and output of at least 3V, while the input current decreases stabilizer + 5V.
This is not my first device made in China, before it was an LCR meter 1832C, which was successfully turned into 1833C, a useful device in the household, also an oscilloscope 2C42, which did not even have to be redone, but inconvenient in terms of control, you need to press a lot of buttons. If you use appliances at home for a hobby, then it is quite possible to buy Chinese ones. I had to study the scheme of the device, its action, I learned a lot of new things for myself, now I'm studying lithium batteries A useful acquisition.

[nokin]

In mine the power supply pcb revision was dated 7.2022 which is quite different with yours @Russ3000.
Pcb was printed +-7V, and I measured +7.5 and -7.3
Test points 5V on analog section are steady 5V.
Traces quite clean even out of the box but I want to improve it more. Recaped power filter caps with Pana FC 1000uf 35V x4, Sanyo Oscon 10uf 10v parallel x2 with smd cap on 5v rails.

[masta_k74]

@ Russ3000
I have the Hantek 2D42 handheld, the DSO2D10 and a USB oscilloscope sold by Conrad Electronic in Germany under the Voltcraft brand. This is clearly a Hantek DSO2090. Even the software interface looks identical. I also use the devices only for hobby and leisure. Only the USB oscilloscope is no longer in use and is gathering dust in the cupboard. (The device is simply a huge disaster and surpasses the other two by far in terms of bugs and errors).
I am currently also doing a lot of projects with lithium batteries. (Both types, i.e. LiFePo4 and Li - Ion).

[Russ3000]

In mine the power supply pcb revision was dated 7.2022 which is quite different with yours @Russ3000.
Pcb was printed +-7V, and I measured +7.5 and -7.3
Test points 5V on analog section are steady 5V.
Traces quite clean even out of the box but I want to improve it more. Recaped power filter caps with Pana FC 1000uf 35V x4, Sanyo Oscon 10uf 10v parallel x2 with smd cap on 5v rails.

I soldered the diodes and capacitors myself, so the board looks different. For normal noise suppression, the 7805 and 7905 require a difference between the input and output voltage of at least 3V, preferably more. allow up to 30V input voltage.

[trazor]

FYI, tried feeding the device with 48v DC (something that 110/220 switching power supplies usually eat well).
The led initialization is different, not all leds turn on, only "wave gen". After the boot screen all leds turn on for a split second and then only the correct mode ones are kept on. Besides that all seems to work as usual (although not extensively tested)

[BillyO]

I got myself 12 Kg lead ingot mold, filled it with numerous and varied pieces of lead, melted it over a hot charcoal fire, then poured it into the back of my Hantek DSO2D15.  Shortly after that my issues were all neatly cleared up.

[BillyO]

Porsche is a fairly low machine, it is convenient to scatter fertilizer on the lawn from it.

Yeah, sure.  No issues there.

[nokin]

Sth wrong with mine in usb connection.
Osc in testing overclocking mod with 696MHz CPU and 360MHz Ram and steady.
Everything begun with "Save to usb" when the osc in FFT math, progress 35% and hung. Tried many times.
Then any update firmware upk with "remove overclock", fix usb ... 35% progress and hang.
Now it cannot recognize usb stick. When I insert usb for 1st time osc has no response but it showed repeatedly "usb connected" and beeps despite of no usb stick anymore.

[vistorik]

DavidAlfa, is it possible to get a PT24C02 i2c EEPROM dump in FEL mode? If possible, could you please make such a program?
Thank you very much in advance.

[DavidAlfa]

It only supports SPI memories.
But what's the purpose? Backup Builder already does this, also provides the raw binary inside a tar file, so you can extract it very easily.
As far as I know, nothing writes the EEPROM, so unless something very strange happens, it will stay unmodified forever.

[Russ3000]

I got myself 12 Kg lead ingot mold, filled it with numerous and varied pieces of lead, melted it over a hot charcoal fire, then poured it into the back of my Hantek DSO2D15.  Shortly after that my issues were all neatly cleared up.

There is a better idea, take 4 18650 batteries for weight, at the same time and power the device from them. I tried it, it works, DC - DC converters arrived 12V -> 5V 1A and 12V -> + -9V 0.27A, turned it on from an external power supply. With this current consumption, the battery will last for 6 hours of operation.

[masta_k74]

In normal operation, 5V at 1A should be sufficient. However, I would have used a 2-3A converter, because one should not forget the USB on the front panel. (According to the USB 1.1 specification, up to 0.5A) Unless you don't want to use this connection. A USB stick doesn't need 0.5A, but you don't know whether someone might connect their small, external 2.5" HDD or a USB work lamp to it.
For example, I built a small hard drive from an old notebook into an external USB housing and formatted it in FAT32. It is in a case with the oscilloscope together with other accessories. (Yes, also a small USB light with a long gooseneck).
On it I also have the latest firmware version, all of DavidAlfa´s Hacks, the PC software for the oscilloscope and other useful programmes that you might need if you are out of town with the device, e.g. with like-minded friends who don't have an oscilloscope.

Of course, not every 2.5" hard disk works. Here I was lucky that it does not require more than 0.45A. But an SSD should generally work. However, I cannot say which size the oscilloscope supports at most.
With "h2format" or "fat32format" you can also format >32GB in FAT32.

[nokin]

This Hantek only recognizes usb stick but not card reader and microSD inside.

[masta_k74]

That is not unusual. My car radio does not recognise card readers either, as they usually need a separate driver. Windows comes with these drivers, so you usually don't even notice the driver.

[tautech]

This Hantek only recognizes usb stick but not card reader and microSD inside.

Might be formatted incorrectly.
Your post had me check a 8GB microSD card in a USB holder that I know is FAT32 4k cluster formatted in 3 Siglent instruments and they all recognized the drive.

[nokin]

Now my Hantek cannot recognize usb stick anymore. No way...
Rear usb stills ok but front has problem.
Maybe I have to disassembly mainboard for checking usb pin port cracking solders

[Russ3000]

Rear usb stills ok but front has problem.

Do you unplug the rear connector when plugging in a flash drive?

@masta_k74
I checked the work with a connected flash drive, the analog part consumes the most when loading, at 5V I found an inexpensive isolated 2A converter - HLK-10D11005. They'll bring it in and change it. I have a small USB hard drive with music on Raspberry Pi 3+ Volumio program

[nokin]

I found the cause of front usb problem, came from the Sany Oscon caps which I added in 5V digital supply. Don't know why but removing them makes usb stable again.
Test 3 times with and without these caps I can confirm the cause.
Now I replaced with Nichicon FW.