The best FLUKE Multimeter for Computer/Laptop Repair !

[WGenius]

Hi all  , I've decided to go for Fluke Multimeter  , but the question is; which one is best for Computer, Laptop Repair for around ( 100$ - 300$ ), can somebody give us some options (At least (3) Options for the price range) (models)  and the must have specs or features for that purpose (computer repair), waiting for your replies  thanks in advance 

[Lightages]

For computer repair you don't just want a multimeter. You should also have an LCR with ESR, or at least an ESR meter.

this LCR meter has been given many thumbs up here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DER-EE-DE-5000-Handheld-LCR-Multi-Meter-with-TL-21-TL-22-/171260782793?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dff028c9

and as far as the multimeter goes, almost any decent multimeter is good enough for computer repair. It definitely doesn't need to be a Fluke. I would be looking at something with fast continuity test, fast update speed, large LCD display, and probably I would want two multimeters instead of just one so I could measure two things at once.

This would be a good one for computer work. Get two!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-T-UT139C-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-with-Temperature-NCV-Backlight-/171213085325

and get the LCR meter or another simpler ESR meter if you want and you have a much much better capability than just one Fluke multimeter. An ESR meter is almost a necessity as a minimum but the LCR meter with its ESR function would be very helpful.

Another thing to get is nice small tipped test leads to get into tight spaces and small pins, like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Test-Probes-Sharp-Tip-with-Long-Insulation-Sleeve-1-Pair-Red-Black-/201001709192
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Test-Leads-Right-Angled-and-Straight-Shrouded-Banana-Plugs-1-Pair-/170985687131

[omgfire]

Fluke is famous for its safety. I don't think you need 1000 V CAT III / IV for 19.5V laptop repair. I don't think accuracy is an issue also (e.g. ATX voltage tolerance is 5-10%). I would suppose any dmm would work, but some features would be nice to have: peak hold (probing tiny legs could draw attention away from display), responsive continuity, jack alert, temperature (dedicated thermometer will also work).
There are other ways to spend money: variable power supply with current limit, LCR, IR rework station, programmer, scope, ..
Hint: you could use thermal paper (ticket or fax) to find short circuit SMD component (poor man's thermal imaging).

[retiredcaps]

I don't think you need 1000 V CAT III / IV for 19.5V laptop repair.

True, but he could be working on the laptop AC adapter which could be close to 400 VDC on the hot side.  Same goes for the ATX PSU.

In those cases, it would be nice to know that a meter can survive an "oops" moment like trying to measure the VDC of a big filter capacitor when the meter is set to the ohms range.

Some cheaper meters only have "overload protection" up to 250V on the ohms range.

[WGenius]

thank you all guys for your replies.
omgfire: I already have an IR Rework Station, the Programmer & The Microscope are on the way  , but unfortunately the only option that I have is FLUKE, so any other suggestions ! BTW thank you for the special Hint 

[zaoka]

Fluke 12 will do it. I used this meter from 1996-2001 and sold it at the end.

Its fast, accurate and does capacity testing as well.

Also consider HIOKI DT4252.

[torr032]

Flukes are industrial grade multimeters and are in fact not that much for electronics. For general electronics repair what you will need is an unlatched fast continuity that would reveal all the imperfections in the contact quality which comes in handy even for laptop repair.  As far as I know all Flukes have latched continuity and trust it will just make your life more complicated because in fact it lies about the contact quality.
Then also a decent resolution will sometime comes in handy both in volts and ohms paired with a good display update speed and a fast bargraph.
And definitely buy one good LCR meter like DE-5000 but watch out it does not have any input protection.

[WGenius]

I think Amprobe AM-570 is a good deal, it comes with temperature feature also (as an option for reballing BGA)  , what do you think guys   

[krivx]

Flukes are industrial grade multimeters and are in fact not that much for electronics. For general electronics repair what you will need is an unnnned fast continuity that would reveal all the imperfections in the contact quality which comes in handy even for laptop repair.  As far as I know all Flukes have latched continuity and trust it will just make your life more complicated because in fact it lies about the contact quality.
Then also a decent resolution will sometime comes in handy both in volts and ohms paired with a good display update speed and a fast bargraph.
And definitely buy one good LCR meter like DE-5000 but watch out it does not have any input protection.

Fluke definitely target the electronics market as well as industrial use. I would say that latched continuity is a personal preference, as long as the response is fast and the hold time is not outrageous. The Fluke-style used in the 8060a and 87 is probably my favourite, it feels instantaneous. The only time I can think of when I needed non-latching behaviour is in an environment with a lot of vibration - probably not applicable to laptop repairs.

[WGenius]

Amprobe AM-570 Guys is it a good deal 

[Lightages]

It is not a bad option, but I think my previous suggestion is a much better buy. You get two meters for the price of one AM-570. If you get everything I first suggested you will still be far under $300 and have the capability you really need.

[WGenius]

Okay, thanks Lightages.

[erazor]

I'm doing microcontroller things with pwm signals in 5V range.
First I used a Uni-Trend UT71C which was not always able to give stable readings with pwm signals and I didn't know on which voltage level it triggers frequency/duty cycle measurements.
I exchanged this cheapo with a Fluke 87-V which works rock solid. Features are better documented and more functional than on the UT. For frequency and duty cycle I can choose the trigger voltage level and flank. The continuity tester is top.

That's one important fact: If you are working with pwm signals check the duty cycle range of the multimeter you want to buy. I read a manual of one, I think it was an Amprobe, that just works between 10-90% which is a joke.

I never regret the 500 Euros for the Fluke 87-V.

Alternatively there is the 28-II which is technically nearly the same but sometimes sells a bit cheaper.

[Lightages]

I'm doing microcontroller things with pwm signals in 5V range.

<SNIP>

I never regret the 500 Euros for the Fluke 87-V.

Alternatively there is the 28-II which is technically nearly the same but sometimes sells a bit cheaper.

The original budget is maximum $300, not 500 Euros! If you want to see PWM signals then forget a multimeter and get an oscilloscope, any oscilloscope, even a used 20MHz analog for $50. Use the right tool for the job. If all you want to do is see duty cycle then there are many good meters that don't cost $500 Euros.

[jimmij]

For computer repair you don't just want a multimeter. You should also have an LCR with ESR, or at least an ESR meter.

I know this is an old thread, but the advice about getting the most for your money in selecting testing equipment for computer/laptop repair is one of the best I've run into. In short, the recommendation was to consider both a multimeter and an LCR with ESR. Some general considerations on a multimeter were speed (fast continuity test, update speed). Some of the specific equipment mentioned:

Der EE DE-5000 LCR Meter

UT139C True RMS Digital Multimeter

Both the DE-5000 and UT139C are available today (Amazon: $130 and $53, respectively. About $192 for both with tax).

Question: Is this still a good combination in 2021 for getting started with laptop work with a budget between $100-$200?

thx

[Grandchuck]

Welcome to the forum Jimmij,

Those should be fine.  Some of the denizens here don't care much for Uni-Ts.  I have two of their meters and like them both.  Don't have the model you mentioned, though.

[coromonadalix]

In reality   youd need a fast displaying meter  ... a meter who can catch fast pulses  rising pulses etc ....  some meters will take time to display a value until the input settle ....  you have an meter eevblog chart  here

An old Fluke 83 87  "first series  not the last "V"  versions"  could be very good, you can or could snatch clean ones on fleabay, at 20,000 counts  its very good


and yes an lcr meter is practical too

[AVGresponding]

I have a 139C, and though I rarely use it, it's a decent meter for the money.

The continuity is not as fast as an F87, but it's not bad, and a good set of leads often makes a huge difference here also.

One downside is no lead detection, so you need to be on your toes if you're swapping between V and A ranges.

The protection is adequate for the task mentioned, though I certainly would never use mine on anything more than about 50V or so.

[jimmij]

Welcome to the forum Jimmij,

Those should be fine.  Some of the denizens here don't care much for Uni-Ts.  I have two of their meters and like them both.  Don't have the model you mentioned, though.

I've seen some posts that mention the input protection for the Uni-Ts isn't as robust as others. I think that may be a fair point, though I'm sure using any multimeter within its limitations will be safe. I live in the USA, so Bryman's are more expensive to come by these days, though they look cool. I was also looking at a B&K Precision 2709B for a DMM, though I picked it for the good capacitance measurements, which can be handled by an LCR meter. I was also looking into the Uni-T U61E (non "+") model. It doesn't have the temperature function, but everything else looks good. PC I/O also looks interesting.

In terms of the DMM / LCR strategy, if your LCR is covering inductance, capacitence and resistance, does it make sese to pick up DMM to focus on specific voltage and current values, along with continuity?

[jimmij]

An old Fluke 83 87  "first series  not the last "V"  versions"  could be very good, you can or could snatch clean ones on fleabay, at 20,000 counts  its very good

Thx. I'll check out the DMM spreadsheet. I also take a look at the first series 83 and 87 flukes.

[jimmij]

I have a 139C, and though I rarely use it, it's a decent meter for the money.

The continuity is not as fast as an F87, but it's not bad, and a good set of leads often makes a huge difference here also.

One downside is no lead detection, so you need to be on your toes if you're swapping between V and A ranges.

The protection is adequate for the task mentioned, though I certainly would never use mine on anything more than about 50V or so.

Lead detection would be nice. I like how the Testo 760 handles that. It makes sense that your would factor decent leads into the overall price of the DMM, something I really hadn't considered.